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snitchythedog

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by snitchythedog

  1. I did not pick up the Cockatrice pack last time. Now I am kicking myself. Loverly work on all.
  2. Much happier that now the dungeon and Egyptian stuff is out. I just hope that both make it. Very bummed that the stirges have not made an appearance yet.
  3. I would like to see the rest of the dungeons and lost tombs becasue both of those seem to be what I am looking for. The rest are nice but do not fit my needs.
  4. A walrus does not need a flight base or minigun to be terrifying. Blubber tusks and spears Out of everything they have put out to date the drake is the one thing other than stirges that has caught my eye.
  5. Thanks for the comps. Building them gave me a reason to make more rubberized horse hair as I ran out and am too cheap to order some when I have the materials on hand.
  6. Dwarves have never been my thing so I did not go in on this set. Saying that you did a brilliant job on the models at a technical level and they certainly work well with your existing terrain. Well done all around.
  7. I had a good hard look at these to use as constructs for Frostgrave and decided against it. After seeing yours I will have to have a rethink.
  8. Very eye catching. Have to have a think about building one.
  9. Time again to update my woodland terrain. This years offering is Heather. Hope you like.
  10. I tend to try to find ways to make my own materials when possible. This technique is not new as the fist time I saw it was over twenty years ago. My spin is that you can make small batches quickly to match any colour you want for everything from leaves to flowers. Materials: Sawdust (I get mine by asking the local DIY store that cuts lumber on site) Acrylic Paint and inks Zippered plastic bags Water Aluminum foil Paper towels Paper plates Microwave A wire meshed sieve Oven 1. Sieve enough of the sawdust into a bowl for your project. This cleans out any foreign materials and larger bits of wood to give you a consistent grain size. 2. Pour small amounts of paint into the plastic bag and mix by squeezing the bag until it is mixed to the colour you want. You can add a little bit of water at this point to make sure all the paint is mixed together. 3. Pour your sieved sawdust into the bag and add a little bit more water and paint to help it mix to a consistent colour. Squeeze the bag around to mix well. Leave for about twenty minutes or microwave the bag on high for 30 seconds to help the paint set in the grains. 4. Pour more water in until all the particles are completely covered. Mix some more. All of the liquid should turn to your base colour. 5. Over a sink, pour the contents of the bag directly into the centre of the sieve. This should make a pancaked shaped puddle of coloured sawdust. 6. Once that has drained most of the liquid out put a piece of paper towel over the top of the sieve and flip it over so the sawdust pancake drops onto the paper towel. Put the paper towel on a paper plate and microwave for 2 minutes. Put a new piece of paper towel over the top of the sawdust and flip again. Get rid of the old paper towel, and put the new one back on the plate. Microwave for two minutes again. This will remove much of the water in the sawdust. Do not microwave for four minutes straight as it can cause the material to burn onto the paper towel and ruins portions of the batch. 7. Pour the sawdust from the paper towel onto some aluminum foil and bake in the oven at 125f/65c for about forty minutes. 8. Once the flock has cooled, sieve it again into a container and it is ready to use. As it is sawdust you can use a variety of adhesives to glue it in place and you will never run out as long as you have sawdust and paint handy.
  11. Rubberized Horse Hair, A how to if you can’t find it. I have been building terrain for wargames and painting models for about forty years starting with Airfix and Testors kits. When I started doing diorama bases for my models I read as much as possible to make them realistic. I noticed that rubberized horsehair was always mentioned in railroad and modeling magazines to represent brush and branches. As I grew up in the states I was never able to get my hands on it as the only supplier I found was a vintage upholstery place in San Francisco and they were prohibitively expensive. Now that I am in the UK it is readily available but I wanted to write a toot for folks that can’t find it. Materials: A pony (a horse will do but Pony’s are more fun because they are naughty) Mane and tail comb Dishwashing liquid A wash bin. Latex Gloves Mold Making Latex Paper towels, disposable sticks and a surface that either will not stick to Latex or newspaper to protect surfaces. Step one. Buy your daughter, wife or significant other a pony. This will be the expensive part but you have to make sacrifices for terrain. You can justify the purchase because they have always wanted one. Have your daughter, wife or significant other take care of both ends of the pony to keep it alive. Make sure they brush the pony’s mane and tale regularly and collect the excess hairs in a bag for later use. Once you have collected enough hair (I do a carrier bag full at a time) you are ready for stage 2. Note: Stage 1 can take some months so try not to rely on this technique if you have a deadline. Step two. Cleaning the hair. Prepare your materials. You will need to wash the pony hair as they are greasy creatures who live outside. Collect your bag of hair and put it into a wash bin. Using dishwashing liquid, and water soak the hair in hot soapy water. Once it has soaked for a couple of hours, swirl the hair around to clean it off and to mix up the individual fibers. I usually do this twice because pony’s are greasy creatures who live outside. Strain the water from the bin. Pick out hay and straw from the hairs. Put the hair back in the bin and soak in clean water for at least two hours to rinse swirling it around again to mix fibers. Pick out hay and straw. Soak it at least two more times picking out hay and straw in between each rinse. Step 3. Forming After straining the water the last time and picking out hay and straw the hair has to be compressed in some way. I use two tatty old cookie sheets with layers of paper towel in between the metal and the hair. Let the hair dry while being compressed. What you are looking for is about an inch thick matt of hair. Step 4. Adding the rubber. Once you have a pretty gross looking lump of dried hair you will need your wash bin again. Push the hair matt into the bin and pour watered down mould making latex onto it. The exact ratio will be up to the latex you are able to find but what I can tell you is to mix water into the latex until it is the consistency of milk. Opaque and runny. I also use a drop dish soap in the mix to break the surface tension of the solution so it will permeate the hair. Pour a modest amount of the diluted latex onto the mass of hair and using your hand squeeze the matt until the all the hairs are coated in the solution. I should have mentioned putting on a glove first. Step 5. Drying the finished product. You will need a clean surface that you can either sacrifice (newspaper and the like) or that will not adhere to latex. My personal preference is a silicone cookie sheet that I use as a work surface for larger projects. Build a small raised scaffolding out of disposable materials such as branches, bamboo sewers or bamboo polls over the surface. Place the matt of rubberized hair onto the scaffolding in the sun. The important bit: You must turn the mass of rubberized hair over several times while it is drying to ensure that latex does not build up in between the fibres on the bottom of the mass. Step 6. Remove from the disposable scaffolding cut and use. Note there will always be blobs of latex that have collected in parts and set. Just cut and tease them out. I will do this about every two years as I tend to have the latex on hand and do not want all the money I spent on the pony to go to waste. The product will be similar to rubberized coconut hush but much finer. I suspect this toot will work for wife, daughter or significant other hair but the prospect creeps me out.
  12. Character models are never single use as they recycle into different uses as the campaign progresses. However at this point my collection has at least a couple hundred of them painted. I will always pick and choose characters from Reapers catalogue as they take my fancy. I also understand that many encounter models do not sell as well over time as character models but that is effectively what I need. Reaper has a huge number of undead, orcs, goblins, kobolds, giants, dragons and trolls and I have many of them but I would love to see more. Even if I don't find the encounters that I am looking for I will still keep the $10 that I have pledged because reaper is a great company.
  13. At this point I am still looking for encounters. I know that character models sell better than encounters but that is what I am looking for so my pledge is sat at $10.00 and waiting to see the expansions. The male vs female discussion to me it is a bit of a non issue. The mods are tetchy about the debate because it tends to devolve a bit so I will be brief. Counting models in the set based on appearance/gender it is a bit of a pointless exercise as that is what is in the set. Either a model is useful to you or not. Hobby budgets are tight right now so spend accordingly.
  14. That is my home town. Grew up gong to that museum back before they expanded and built the hangers.
  15. Sirthiliel - Here I will have to both agree with you and disagree with you. I prefer how Julie does her wings, I just wish she replaced the front limbs with them. I have always preferred dragons to have either a pterosaur pose or no wings at all as both look both much more natural and functional. I have several with four legs and two wings but I find them, for lack of a better word, "wrong" visually.
  16. I have been purchasing Reaper minis for years now and have backed each of the five previous Kickstarters at well over $150.00 each. At this point I can go to the Reaper catalogue and find a choose the race of your model, choose the sex of your model, insert your own character class armed with a choose your own weapon in both metal and in bones. I can also find plenty of undead, goblins, kobolds orcs, ogres, giants, dragons and daemons plus many smaller creatures. I am not complaining about the selection in the least and I will still shop Reaper for years to come. Going through the various kickstarter campaigns it was always the encounter monsters that drew me in. In Bones 5 I was genuinely excited to see the catobelepas, villagers, cyclops, snake bodied hydra and gigantic spider. In Bones 4 I could not do without the living statues and the tree of despair. Bones 3 had the foo dog, great lizard men, Goremaw and Maal Drakar. Bones 2 had Bugbears, Gnolls, a Gelationous Cube and a Preyton of all things. Bones 1 was a new exciting medium and had tonnes of useful stuff that surprisingly enough I have painted and used most of. So far this campaign has generated some very nice sculpts and introduced some new creatures which may be useful in future but the only sculpt that has really drew my eye is the stirges. I am hoping that the Denizens of the Dungeon expansion will have more of what I am looking for. Some of the other lesser races that are not usually modelled in numbers would be nice to see such as a brownie horde to go along with the existing line of kobolds, some githyanki or an expanded selection of lizard men. It would also be nice to see some other domestic creatures such as cattle, sheep and pigs. To date I am in for $10 and waiting to see what else comes. I know that character models will generate more consistent revenue over a long period of time while monsters and terrain items tend to be one off purchases but I can dream can't I?
  17. I would suggest that Reaper think about previewing 3 or so items to unlock as was done periodically throughout the last five kickstarters. Seeing what is upcoming is as much incentive as what has been unlocked. My two cents.
  18. You might also check with the Pima Air and Space Museum in Tucson. They have the 390th memorial museum on site and I know that they have a pretty extensive reference library. There is also a 390th memorial museum website that goes along with so there is another resource to contact. Last time I was there, an old boy who served in the squadron during the war still occasionally volunteered. I suspect that he is no longer with us.
  19. Injection moulds tend to last quite a long time as they are machined out of metal and casting in heated plastic. Production spin moulds do not last quite as long as they are usually vulcanized rubber (similar to tires) casting in molten metal. The reason more parts are not cast in plastic is the price differential. 10k for an injection mould to be machined compared to 600-1000 dollars to create a master then production spin moulds. 3d modelling has been a game changer for plastics as it is easier to transfer the data to a milling machine. Reapers change in casting materials have been a game changer if you look at the quality between bones 1 and bones 5. The new bones black material is getting close to metal quality so I am happier with some of the smaller models now.
  20. As advertised a giant 2 headed mutant cyber rat. Nicely painted mini and a well done base.
  21. Now that, is a clever bit of ingenuity!
  22. Without getting political, for those folks who do not like particular sculpts you are free not to purchase them and take your money elsewhere. The market will either punish a company for perceived "bad" products or it will not. Getting upset and taking "it" personally does not accomplish anything. My two cents.
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