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Everything posted by snitchythedog

  1. Hello everyone. My wife gave me an ender 3 pro printer for my birthday. I built it without issue and the Gcode files that came with it printed without artefacts or defects. Everything that I have downloaded has been in a STL format. Looking online I found loads of information about converting the STLs. The only software that I could get to load on my computer is slic3r (MAC OS and none of the others will load). It converts the Gcode and produces STL files. Every print comes out ropey with the low definition and the PLA layers are not sticking together. Anybody have any ideas?
  2. Thanks both. I was out of town for my birthday. Wife took me up north for a whirlwind tour. Four days in Cumbria. Got back in this evening and was surprised with a new 3D printer that I was not expecting.
  3. Very nice job. I was real torn on this one but in the end did not pick it up as I did not think I could do it justice.
  4. I had not expected to finish the whole encounter but that is how they ended up in my paint queue. The Ghouls were in my first Bones 5 post.
  5. He is very cool. The cherisher cat face, with the absurd body and the great paint really works.
  6. Last two days I have been working on Arakoth. Painted with thinned washes of paint in layers. Everything was zenith primed. The whole model was done in thinned down craft paints. Carapace was the following colours: Pebo Khaki, Pebo Bright blue, Pebo Red Brown, Citadel Seraphim Sepia, Citadel Athonian Camoshade and a final highlight of khaki. Underside was: Pebo Khaki, Pebo Red Brown, Citadel Cadian Fleshtone, Citadel Druchil Violet and a final highlight of Americana Bleached sand. Base was Pebo Khaki, Pebo Red Brown, Pebo Gray, Citadel Athonian Camoshade, Citadel Seraphim Sepia, Citadel Nuln Oil and a final highlight of Pebo Khaki. Even waiting for every thinned coat to dry it has only taken two afternoons work and I am quite happy with the subtle spots on the abdomen. A couple more photos on my blog. Hope you like.
  7. I only ordered individual stretch goals this time. Love the new bones 5 material and the details is definitely there. First the naughty bits The boars from Cerci in the Greek expansion. The Basilisk. Much more respectable size than the origonal bones Basilisk. Last is the hydra. Loved the snake body. This one has a craptastic paint job but hey. Hope you like.
  8. Groundwork came out lovely. Tied the great building together.
  9. The grave series is actually pretty ambiguous about much of the terrain that is needed past the centre objective. Usually it reads something along the lines of "should be cluttered as normal". Some individual scenarios are quite specific but the majority are pretty open. I agree that terrain should be more than just an obstacle and should be held in higher regard in both war and skirmish games. The real dig is that the rules need to cover many eventualities without becoming clunky. I am happy with the grave series as it is open enough to adapt to different terrain and simple enough that it does not bog down play. Personally I prefer clutter boards where the tactical situation can change over short distances. With the clutter a simple system is necessary.
  10. Thanks for the comps. Had not weighed it until this morning. 8 1/2 pounds. 23 X 13 X 9 inches. The foamex is light but there are three layers per wall so it adds up with all the other elements. I need to get a bigger Frostgrave building box as all of mine are 35 L Really Useful Boxes and this one will not fit in the bottom,
  11. Quick update as there is more to do. I still feel I am missing something on the sides and back. It does not quite work for me just yet. More photos on my blog if you are interested.
  12. No, Texas is close to Texas. It is so big that nothing else is nearby. Nice job on the woods. Just so everyone knows. Eastern Texas is quite lovely. Western Texas is too flat for my tastes.
  13. I have a bin that is full of everything from the full order of bones 1-3 and the expansions and bits I picked up from bones 4. I usually sort, and pick out minis for current projects and then throw the extras back in.
  14. Nice to see these painted. Still waiting for the UK shipping dates. Fingers crossed. đŸ˜¬
  15. Finished construction on my newest temple. Now I need to fill up the gaps over the next few evenings. There are complete photos of the interior and exterior on my blog if you are interested.
  16. My entry for Build Something Competition over on LAF. I did not make it past the first round as all of the entries were so well done. Now that I am out I can post some completed photos. I built some marsh bases.
  17. For what it is instamould (oyumaru) is a great product. The key is learning what its limitations are and working within those limitations or the learning curve that you were talking about. It can be used to make small two part moulds but does not work particularly well for a variety of reasons. My comments about expense and time is in relation to silicone moulds and casting resin vs what PacoBelan was wanting to do. Some miniature companies do use this process for making masters but they generally make blank or partially complete bodies that they can add smaller details such as hands/face to. Smaller "soft' details in almost all cases involve pushing putty. I think it is the IP for his router but I am not quite sure.
  18. The concept sounds better than if you try to put it into practice. I have used instamould (oyumaru) to copy and transfer individual detail in putty to other models. If you are looking for free standing parts that are not supported by the miniatures surface it is quite difficult in instamould (such as a pointing hand on an outstretched arm). If you are sculpting your own parts and mould making you can do whatever you want. However they will have to be cast in a liquid resin as the silicone needed for the two sided moulds generally does not work well with greenstuff (or milliput) as the silicone deforms when you are pressing the putty into the surface details. In my experience that process is more expensive and time consuming than it is worth. My two cents.
  19. Started on the exterior. Slow going as Foamex is a bit of a pig to texture. Just some photos. Lots of gap filling and more exterior stonework still to go. More photos on my blog if you are interested.
  20. That's a very nice dumpster. Well done on the lettering and the weathering.
  21. Depending on how much you will be handling it you could make your own real scale barb wire. Drakkar models has a good tutorial with lots of photos so you can google or duck duck foo it. Not a good suggestion for something that you will be handling loads but it does look nice.
  22. Outstanding foamwork. Is it a solid piece or did you manage to work out a way to do the interior with all of the buttressing?
  23. Been looking hard at this model. I have their shuttle alpha so I know the quality is there. Just waiting to pick up a printer.
  24. Major construction on the interior is finished. Just have to cap and fill the voids between the interior and exterior walls and fill gaps. The alcoves where the bodies are held are slotted so they could be painted separately. Once I finish the inside I will start on the exterior.
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