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Everything posted by Gailbraithe

  1. You can't really see it in the photos above, and this isn't a whole lot better (the camera and light set-up I'm using are really not up to this task), but here's a blow-up of the detail on the quiver. I was inspired by the level of detail Dman89 put into his (seen here). Of course, DMan89 is a lot better painter than I am.
  2. They're for gaming. I don't really do dioramas.
  3. #1 Look, maybe there was more than one wave or not. All I know is that I got into Spinespur early in 2010 (so I guess it was almost three years ago, not four years. I'd say "so sue me," but Merv sent me a nasty email implying he intends to do just that), that all the models that were available when I got into it are all the models that have been released, and that no models have been released since then. Maybe I got into the game after the second wave. The point is: When Merv says there are only six models to be released, keep in mind that's been the case for about three years now. As far as I'm concerned, those six models and the next book are Vaporware, and I'll believe they exist when the are released. #2 The Pig Whisperer debacle I mentioned is thus: Merv announced on his forums that he had received the model for the Pig Whisperer, he showed so photos of it, and said that anyone who wanted one early could email him about it. I and many other emailed him about it. As far as I know, the model never materialized. If I recall correctly, the same thing happened with Sex Star Six. It's just sloppy and unprofessional, and it lead to a lot of people abandoning the Comfy Chair forums and giving up on the game. #3 And what I said about Wildfire and Comfy Heroes is true, the lines seem to have been abandoned. There hasn't been any action on either of them in two years, aside from Merv's vague reassurance that he still has plans for the lines. And again, I don't think Merv's a bad guy, I just don't think he has good follow-through and I wouldn't preorder anything from him, given his track record of not getting things to the market.
  4. 02572: Overladen Henchman P02548B: Henchmen HH1b Expedition Mule II (Otherworld Miniatures) The Merchant's Party
  5. I thought I was done painting these three models, but after I based them I decided I liked the basing so much I wanted to put some more work into the paintjob, starting with at least another layer of highlights. The small tufts of grass on the henchmen and the mule are Army Painter Battlefields Winter Tufts, which just arrived in my FLGS. They're pretty cool, they come on a plastic sheet and you just pluck them off with tweezers and put them down on a drop of glue. A lot easier than trying to make your own tufts from static grass or long grasses (you can see a static grass clump on the overladen henchman). 02572: Overladen Henchman The Overladen Henchman is something of a nightmare to paint. So many different items, all crammed together, and calling on so many colors. Adding another layer of highlights to him is going to be a big task. P02548B: Henchmen The Henchmen w/Chest are pretty simple models, but its difficult painting the lead man's back and the following man's front, as the chest and the other man get in your way. The lead figure has a great face, comically drawn with his tongue poking out of the corner. I'm giving him a gray beard and hair, having decided he's a long retired adventurer earning work in his senior years by serving as a caravan guard. Expedition Mule II (Otherworld Miniatures) Noticeably, the mule is carrying less gear than the henchman. Apparently everyone thinks the mule has the better personality.
  6. I would strongly advise not putting money into this Kickstarter. I don't want to trash talk anyone, but Merv (owner of Comfy Chair Games) does not have a good track record. I got into Spinespur real early, and after the initial wave of miniatures there was supposed to be a second wave and a book. That was like four years ago, and nothing has materialized. Merv has a lot of excuses for why things haven't happened (divorce, back injuries, etc.), and every few months promises that Spinespur isn't dead and new stuff is coming, but it never happens. You don't even want to get me started on the whole Pig Whisperer pre-order debacle. The guy has some great ideas (from a rules standpoint, Spinespur is the flat-out best skirmish game there is. It seriously rocks, even if the setting is frankly juvenile and gross), but he has really poor follow-through. His Wildfire game also went nowhere, and Comfy Heroes is still MIA. Investing in this kickstarter is really asking for trouble, and I'd be afraid of the very real chance that nothing will materialize, or at best you'll end up with half a game that never gets further support.
  7. It really depends on the model. I generally prime in black, but if I'm going to do a model that will be best suited for light, pastel or bright colors, then I'll prime in white. If you're going to be using a lot of reds and yellows, then priming white will make that easier. Meanwhile a model with a lot of metal, dark skin tones, fur or scales, etc. is better served with a black primer. For example, if you were painting 14552: Sylph you'd want to go with a white primer. The Sylph is going to have very fair skin, and be garbed in pale blues and whites. Getting up to those light pastel shades from black is going to require really heavy layers of paint, while a white base will make for a lot less work. Meanwhile, if you were painting 60103: Anti Paladin you'd want to start from black, so you get those strong shadows and deep colors.
  8. I figured. I prime black and when you said the basecoat was violet liner I was like "But but but how?" Then I realized you probably primed white. I have these guys sitting on my Queue Shelf, just waiting for inspiration to hit. I am definitely copying your paintjob, these guys just look awesome.
  9. Uh oh, he's got a goatee. He must be someone's evil twin. But then again, he's a Drow, and all Drow are evil. So maybe he's the good twin?
  10. He's perfect for a lot of NPCs. I'm currently using him as the Guildmaster of the Miner's Guild in Idyls of the Rat King.
  11. I had a summer like that, it was the worst feeling ever. I talked to my boss three weeks in and he said not to fret, "If I quit, they just hire someone else." I still felt like I was stealing. I did get a lot of recreational reading done though. In my younger days, I worked for 7-11 at one of the corporate owned store. The store was sold to a franchiser and I was transferred to another store. Everyone from my store was transferred there. I ended up being the fourth man on the graveyard shift. There were two registers, and because every shift was overstaffed, the store was SPOTLESS by the time I got there every night. For three weeks I would get to work and sit and read, doing nothing. I ended up quitting because I couldn't handle the stress of doing nothing.
  12. Have you considered using GW's Liquid Green Stuff as a means of smoothing over the rough gaps? It's not actual green stuff, but it paints on three dimensionally and is pretty easy to use.
  13. Oh yeah, now that I can see it clearly, that beige rack is definitely the same as mine.
  14. I'm going to be receiving in the neighborhood of 413 miniatures over the next few months. That's insane. So yeah, I am totally burnt-out. I will never be able to keep up with what I've bought, let alone buying more.
  15. This does a pretty good job of explaining glazing. Not to knock Crane's excellent description, but sometimes seeing the technique being used is a lot clearer than having it described to you.
  16. I have this. I bought the pdf, printed it up on the color printer at work, took it down to Kinkos to have it 3-hole punched, and bound in a 3" ring binder. I find it very useful, full of great articles and lots of information about advanced techniques. I would say that if you have access to a color printer, it is well worth the investment. Sure, all of the articles are online already, but having them all together in an easy to print format is totally worth the $10.
  17. Hmm you didn't mention the blue psionic ones :). We don't speak of the blue psionic ones. They are dead to us.
  18. That's not a conversion. If your Damiel didn't have a packback then you were missing a piece from your package.
  19. That's pretty good. Needs more shading. The Bette Davis Eyes technique is pretty good, but its real easy to ruin the eyes while painting the face. A little runaway wash can spoil your whole day. I like to save eyes for last. The technique I use most often works like this: 1. Paint the entire eye and eye socket area (eyelids, etc.) with the base color of your model's flesh tone. Since I use Reaper Master Series Paints, this would be the Shadow for whatever flesh tone I'm using. 2. Paint the eye and edges of eyelids with black or dark brown. I can usually accomplish this with a single short brushstroke using a 0 or 00 brush. Black if I want a very bold eye, brown if I want something more realistic and natural looking. 3. Paint the eye with white or an off-white. Reaper's Leather White works well for this. 4. Let the whole thing dry thoroughly. 5. Using an ultrafine sharpie marker, I place a dot along the white line so that there is some miniscule amount of white space below it and none above it.
  20. I have access to a camera again, so I took some shots of some of the models I've done in the past few months. 03431: Frost Giant Princess 14599: Boerogg Blackrime, Frost Giant Jarl of Icingstead 65111: Frost Giant Warrior (head is from 65100: Frost Giant Warrior) Really happy about how the Ice Sword came out on this guy. 65139: Hill Giant 03321: Damien, Hellborn Wizard
  21. It really does help to have a good model. The heroquest models are great fun, but they aren't great models. That's sort of the earliest experiments Games Workshop was doing in injection molded plastic miniatures, and the details are pretty weak.
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