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About Karabean

  • Birthday 07/15/1975

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Greenfield, MA
  • Interests
    A secret part of me is techie oriented. Mostly hanging out with friends (my main motivation when I game) knitting, painting, reading fantasy, paranormal stuff, and following many sci-fi and fantasy shows on tv. Oh, and kibitzing b-movies.

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  1. Ah, really? Is that what can encourage micro-bits to break? Thanks for the advice so far!
  2. For the clueless or the timid like myself... Does anyone know of any miniature tutorials on how best to use all the different options that come with rotary tools like Dremels, or can be bought for them? There are so many bits and polishing options I get a bit lost looking at them. What sizes do people tend to use most for drill bits and wire? Do you find they fit the normal collet and chuck that comes with most kits? For polishing or getting rid of lines/burrs, do you do it in stages, switching between a lot of grit levels? Are there favorite grit levels people like to use or avoid? Do you use the wheels or the cylinders/cones? Are particular kinds, like metal vs sandpaper vs rubber better in your opinion? The thin circular disks, do you prefer the straight discs or the ones that look like demented pinwheels? Thanks!
  3. I don't have a dremel, just a knock-off. I don't know how to use the attachments (keep meaning to look it up) so mostly I use it to shake up paints I haven't used in a while. One pill bottle fits the master series hobby paint bottles. I duck-taped the pill bottle to an alan wrench (hex key) which cost 75 cents. Now I spin a bottle for 15-20 sec on either of 2 axis and that usually does it. I can't do a ton of bottles at a time, the motor starts to overheat after 4-5 minutes, I guess its more torque than its designed for. Still, quite handy and easy to load.
  4. Thanks Guys! I have to say color mixing is challenging. I have a hard time getting the color to nudge in the direction I want. I need more practice. Cheers, Kara
  5. Just wondering if this is out there already - could you point me in the right direction? I didn't see it when I searched the forums. I picked up the divine book "Color Mixing Recipes" by William F Powell, and I'm having trouble recreating some of them. Acrylic Color Name - nearest Master Series Color or mix?? Alizarin crimson Burnt sienna - intense brown? Burnt umber - blackened brown? Cadmium orange Cadmium red light - phoenix red? Vermilion hue/Cadmium vermilion Cadmium yellow light Cadmium yellow medium Cerulean blue Chromium oxide green - leaf green? Cobalt blue Ivory black -pure black? Naples yellow hue - palomino gold? Naphthol crimson/phthalo crimson Raw sienna - chestnut gold? Raw umber Titanium white - pure white? Ultramarine blue - ultramarine blue? Venetian red/red oxide Viridian green Yellow ochre Yellow light hansa Thank you, Kara
  6. I love the eyes and skin on Jolie. You made the eyebrows seem to have more dimension with the extreme highlight directly above them and then the darker skin a little further up helps give more shape to the forehead. I like her nose too. I like how the greens are blended on her back collar. And the wolfen is impressive. Did you blackline (or grayline) the edges of all his clothing/armour/equipment?
  7. Merry Christmas! And to non-christians, Happy Festivus!
  8. Let me be another to say thank you!
  9. Have you ever tried just a little linen white added to some of the curves of the rings in some of the yellow progressions? Also I found it helpful to add just a hint (very thinned) of metallic here and there at some of the brightest points- well it made me more excited over it. But I feel your pain. I feel like I have yet to get the hang of woodgrain, which is sad because in theory it's a simple technique.
  10. Amazing! Shows me how far I have to go. So crisp and clean. Do you use black lining?
  11. Great armor and teeth! I would never have thought of fair maiden for it.
  12. Thank you everyone for the kind comments and the advice on how to ship a mini. I'm definitely going to use plastic bags for the initial wrapping layer. What a great idea! Captenglish: Great question, it's part of the figurine. I'm not able to get green stuff to do what I want yet. Do you need closeups?
  13. He's beautiful! Thank you for doing this WIP. I was surprised the shadowed steel seemed to come of slightly blue tinted before you even did your glazing. Would it be possible to get some closeups when you work on the face? Hope you get well soon! I've heard that flu can be pretty nasty.
  14. Ok, brownish, Anne would probably have more pertinent suggestions, if you can't tell I tend to wander around the map when I paint, but here's my take. Intense brown or brown liner/ink for darkest tones Chestnut gold and Harvest Brown for warm mid tones Palomino Gold or Sun Yellow for color glazes Bone shadow or some of the Khaki's for glazing if you want to go with some grayish tones in some of the medium shadows Golden skin tones, Yellowed Bone, Stained Ivory, or regular Ivory for highlights.
  15. Good to see you Amber! There are lots of color choices you can use for the collar. If it were me, I'd go for a light color, like maybe linen white bleached bone, on into the yellows. Maybe a blue with gold-threaded designs on it. You could paint in rivets or buttons as decorations too. It depends in part on his back story. Is he from the rustic woods? Then a gray/brown might do, maybe even some patches. Really high up in a large and prosperous clan? Maybe he'd be wearing something that seems more expensive. Does he want to be intentionally scary or does he not care about that so much as appearing powerful/important? If powerful then maybe he just wants a rich-toned color like one of the clear brights. Or is he just wearing what's clean and at hand? Maybe a linen/light brown color for the shirt. Is it ceremonial wear? In that case gold-toned (threaded) designs are a good bet. Hope this helps!
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