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    Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    Roleplaying, live-action medieval combat simulations, painting minis, reading books, watching movies, eating food.

Okkar's Achievements

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  1. what about the official sites??? OK, they are French, but you guys can still figure it out, right? http://www.rackham-store.com/ for the online store http://www.confrontation.fr/ for the official info site (the white and grey buttons are the eye-candies...) Hugo
  2. Hi gang! Long time no post (long time no paint, too...) I would like your advise on something. I am DMing a new game, and one of my players is a Half-Ogre paladin (don't ask...). I need a mini for this guy. So I am looking for a mini of decent size for this monster (8' tall) without too much ogre features. Plus, this guy is wearing full armor! I was looking at the Big Boris mini (from Heresy), but the armor doesn't fit the profile. Then, I saw the new Reaper Clay Golem. I think I could easily modify him to add some sort of armor on him (getting good with the Green Stuff...), but the size issue remains... So, any of you guys 'n' gals out there have seen this guy in the pewter? Any chace that I could get him to pass as ogre-ish? Any help would be helpful in this matter! It's great to be back!
  3. The best thing about Future is that it breaks the water surface tension (much like dishwasher soap does when you do dishes...), and that helps the flow of paint. The wash reaches the recesses more easily, and without leaving "rings" of dried paint where you don't want them. I'm not sure an extender would give the same result...
  4. Have no fear, Mongramen! Since this is not a contest, everybody can participate. Go see Dominic's site for VIC for past years, and you'll see that the skill levels varies a lot. Dominic Heutelbeck's site
  5. Well, since the goal of this forum is to try and improve our collective painting skills, you should go with NMM. The gold parts are detail pieces, so it will be easier than trying the technique on a large flat surface. There's all edges, which seems easier. Than again, I never tried NMM myself, so take this for what is worth... but I believe this would be the best place to try.
  6. Most brushes made by modeling companies are synthetics, and those from natural fibers are often low-quality. You're better off getting them from a craft and art supplies store. They have a wide selection and a trained staff, unlike the gaming store, where your only reference is the clerk telling you HE's using them... I bought the Citadel brush kit about 3 months ago. It contained 3 brushes (2 natural, 1 synthetic). All are ruined now. The synthetic (small drybrush) developed nasty hooks. It is now dedicated to sloppy drybrushing jobs. The standard brush (sable hair) did a good job on my first minis, but is now used to transfer paint from pot to palette. The Fine Detail (sable too) was never good for anything. The hair were all over the place and they never fromed a decent point.
  7. I need advice on something I never saw discussed so far. I bought new brushes during the weekend. I set up to try them on a "scrap" minis I keep exactly for these things. I wet the brush in water (haven't switched to Water/Future mix yet...), I dry it a little, and dip the tip in the paint (which had been previously transferred from the bottle to my palette, and thinned a little). First thing I notice, by capillarity, the paint soaks up the whole length of the fibers, right under the ferrule, before I could do anything about it!! I cleaned most of it out, but there's still a tint of green in the "bottom" portion of the bristles... Things are fine now, but with paint under there, I'm sure the brush won't last long... Anything like that ever happened to you? Any idea how to prevent this? I still have two more brushes to initiate, and I don't want to ruin them too! Thanks!!
  8. How long have you had those brushes? At one point, it's no use restoring them, they did their fair time, and it might be time for a new batch. As everybody pointed out, synthetics are more prone to develop those hooks, but natural fibers will curl after a while.
  9. I believe you expressed the feeling of a lot of peope here: all Reaper sculptors are producing amazing minis. Since preference is by definition a personnal thing, each person will have his/her favorites, but you can appreciate good work, no matter who did it. Looking through my Proochases, I realized that while a lot of my models are Klocke figures, I have at least one mini from each sculptor, and I like them all since I picked them up! And that's the only impact I can have on the business.
  10. The coolest feature with this awesome piece is that it respects the unit rule, so you can actually use these guys in wargaming! Could you imagine the face of your opponent when you set them up?!? And while you're there, check out the rest of Vicoria's work, she is amazing!! Check out this diorama: Here's the link Not sure where the minis come from, but you have to appreciate the skill no matter what.
  11. Question to Zaphod: for the in-process steps, are you only adding the yellowish color in thin layers, or are you using a mix of base and middle for the intermediate tones? From what I get from your tutorial, you're using pure colors, but so thin that the final color is made by a build-up of intermediate colors from base to final. That's is a really interesting method! I'll try it and let you know the results.
  12. Welcome Aboard, Skya!! You'll see, this is a cool place to be!! On topic: I don't think Reaper will make mounted character unless the Warlord game requires them. And while you are right that converting can be a pain, it is a great satisfaction to realise the perfect mini for YOUR needs. BTW, visited your homepage and I can't wait to see your minis! You are a truly talented artist. I especially love the yawning cat.
  13. Could we please have insider's info on more figures from the lupine "faction"? Are they part of something else, or an army by themselves? Will the Warlord game be more like Confrontation or Warhammer? ::BEGIN SUCKING UP TO REAPERIVY NOW:: Pretty pretty please with sugar on top, all that covered with maple syrup and a cherry too! ::END FANBOY SESSION NOW:: Thanks for the sneak peek!
  14. Well if you're talking belts and stuff, I agree, but with vinyl trenchcoats and black leather armor, you need something more ;)
  15. I never tried it myself, so take this for what it's worth, but I think that with both situations, It'll be more a question of highlights than base color that will render the desired result. With black vinyl, the highlights would be numerous and very "contrasting", going as far as light grey of sharp edges. Worse case, apply a gloss coating to the area after sealing it with matte spray. For rougher plain black leather, more muted highlights not too far from the base color (maybe blackish browns) would be appropriate. Again, not too helpful since I have no idea how it would actually look, but that's the way I would try it.
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