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Everything posted by ixminis

  1. Hello again friends 🙃 Dunno who remembers me, but I wanted to say I'm thinking of all you crazy Reaper folks and I didn't quite drop off the face of the earth, it just seemed that way. Anyway, I'm renovating my house and am going to get my hobby room setup again so I can PAINT again. Looking forward to hanging out with you in this here forum. Regards, Ixminis
  2. wants to be able to paint again...

  3. I found this with a search for "ambient sounds underwater" Underwater sounds
  4. Weekly paint club at 12 noon - 4 p.m. Saturdays at Reaper HQ. Occasionally there might be a field trip or a local gaming event might move the painting to a different area of the warehouse, but it's a fairly consistent thing! There are MANY willing and helpful people in attendance
  5. I'd also like to encourage you to avoid stripping *some* of your miniatures that you otherwise intend on stripping. It's a very useful tool / illustration to save a few of them as milestones of personal progress. They also give future instructors ideas about how to help you improve next as the collection will demonstrate trends in painting habits. Of course, budget and personal learning style can influence your choice about whether or not you really do this, but do consider it. Regards,
  6. White typically begets opacity, so you will lose the transparency effect you seem to be looking for. You might consider Reaper's Clear colors as well. All in all I'm going to speculate that you are going to be shifting the color if you go with an translucent paint. Perhaps focusing on recesses using darker colors (maybe similar to an inking techique) might work you towards the objective? As a footnote: The purpose I use the testor's for is the drying qualities and making colored strands for goo, blood, bile, etc.
  7. I find that matteboard is a relatively sturdy background. There's also background paper available in neutral tones. The black backgrounds reaper uses work because the white space and black space diffuse into each other and create the equivalent of grey (it evens out). Digital cameras adjust the entire picture according to the majority of what the sensor sees. A neutral background ensures that the main subject (the miniature) is what mainly affects the cameras logic.... hopefully that makes sense. There are others that can say it in a much more technical manner, but do a test once you've got a few different backgrounds. Don't change any settings, just the background and you'll see what each background does to the image better.
  8. I wonder who else will get the reference. Nice stuff. Did you have any trouble getting the color in the photograph to work? If so, consider a neutral gray background. Again, nice.
  9. The size of the brush will impact how long you can keep the paint on the brush before applying the paint & how much paint will be available per dip in the paint. Depending on the climate you live and paint in, you'll prefer one over the other. My recommendation is to get used to the larger one as it will eventually mean less dips in the paint for you and more time on the mini
  10. ixminis


    Love Kev's VOID minis and you've made a nice sharp PJ for it. Niiice!
  11. Start with a neutral background such as Grey if you want a catch all. If you want to go with a colored background per image and not worry about having the same background let me know via this post and I'll look for my "background color vs mini color information. I'm mobile right now and don't remember net all the recommendations
  12. Having played Mr. Close's "Fiasco!" game last year, I can say that YOU DO NOT WANT TO MISS OUT ON IT!!! It's absolutely fantastic!!! and I'm the real Wayne Newton!
  13. Nice! You do know that outing ninjas = not good.
  14. Fantastic! That airbrush type is actually called triple action by Iwata. The dial on the front bottom of the airbrush is for an additional level of atomization of the overall paint and air mix. Larger drops, no problem, finer drops no problem as well!
  15. You do not need a $400 camera. Based on the picture, you are looking for a Macro setting. It looks like a tulip in most cameras. Some phones even have it now. It's not always on a button. Sometimes it's in the display and you use arrow keys and a select button to get to the option.
  16. Two oldie but goodie links to forum posts with recipes: Post with a few links to recipes and Anne Foerster drops some down: Another post with some great painter's recipes (not all Reaper MSP if I remember, but still a great post): Also find gold and silver in the house and compare it with something chrome in the house. Observe the amount of light and color reflection, how it diffuse light and color in the reflection, and all that good stuff. You will likely find that there is an extra "timbre" to the precious metal. Figuring out how we simulate that additional shift in color is a critical element to the NMM technique. regards,
  17. Neat idea! playing with color cards is a fantastic way to evaluate color choices. I heavily recommend doing it with all of your paints! (Note for the readers of this post: I also heavily recommend doing it to EVERYBODY. Color choices and light values are a personal thing that it's better to experience first hand). My answers: I will say that after I figured it out for myself, I immediately followed your link to confirm my belief. (Thanks for the link!) Observations: It felt like the challenge was also about determining the light source(s) and it's/their location(s). Without knowing what and where the light sources came from, something we intrinsically do when observing something in person, we were at a disadvantage. Often we need to play with the angle of light, the distance to it, and our own lines of sight to evaluate light/dark "value". The color choices used in this test appear to be paints with white and/or light bases. This means that they cover better no matter the base. Have you done the test with more translucent colors? As I recommended above, doing it with all colors is where you start to see the finer points of the primer color choices Again, fantastic idea. Thank you for sharing!
  18. One should never trust a paint to be safe for consumption. To answer the OP question: If the brush is holding it's tip while wet, but drying in a "bushy" fashion... that is ok. The crux is whether or not it holds a tip when wet. That being said, most well-known retailers are good to great with immediate (near immediate) returns on brushers due to a snafu here or there. We've got more extensive threads on the forum that cover this topic and you might try them out. Holler if you need help finding them!
  19. Quick comment as I'm working through about a month of not checking e-mail: It looks like you have figured out lighting and background. Good job!
  20. Different base accoutrements Different runes here or there on the figure Different tints of the base tone (or wash if you wash) Different logos/runes on shields Base Numbering/Naming You name it, something for continuity, something for differentiation. Different poses and weapons and bits (yes, yes yes)
  21. I forget how many of those I got, but they are awesome aren't they? and Froggy, you've done your typical superb job!!! Kudos!
  22. Looks like folks have covered brushing it on. If you've got an air brush 1 part primer to 1 part water will get you a good mix to start with as well. I frequently use Reaper MSP Primer White as a spray primer (with my airbrush as the delivery system).
  23. Er, I think I've seen some resin ones; in a boutique web-shop... now to search for hours...
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