Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by GlenP

  1. Ok... to the photo. This appears to be an early production M4A1 Sherman cast hull sans turret. It lacks the front visor flaps (mostly used on the earliest production vehicles) on the driver/co-driver hatch housings and carries the early three-piece bolt-on transmission housing. The small shield casting on the nose indicates a vehicle from the Montreal Locomotive Works with hulls sourced from General Steel in Eddystone, PA or Granite City, IL. The hull has the integral .30 machine gun housing, but lacks the gun itself (these are normally retained to provide cover fire for exiting troops). It appears to have the Canadian Dry-Pin steel tracks. Note use of the CDP tracks required the use of a different drive sprocket, What can't be discerned is the use of M3 Lee bogie wheels or the later Sherman bogie wheels and whether the wheels were spoked or solid (stamped). My M10 has the latter with the track skid and trailing arm for the track return roller. The Lee bogies had no skid and the return roller was mounted directly on top of the bogie assembly. There's no shortage of pics of these. FWIW, Sherman wheels, drive sprockets, idler wheels, and bogie assemblies are a study in themselves. I've never seen any pics (that I can recall) of any variant of a Kangaroo interior. All I know was the turret and all hull ammo racks were removed, 'bench seating' installed, and a metal plate was added between the troop and driver's compartments. I have the impression that the plate completely blocked troop access to the drivers' compartments. I also don't know what, if any changes were made to the turret ring itself (it might be safe to assume the turret gear ring was removed). The crew consisted of a vehicle commander, a driver, and a co-driver/gunner/radio operator. The troop complement consisted of 8-12 troops or as many as they could cram in and on the vehicle. Military expediency and all that... HTH Glen
  2. As I recall, Canada used converted Ram tanks (similar to an early Sherman), Shermans, M7 Priests, and Sextons (similar to a Priest, but with a different gun. They were used as early APCs and gun tractors for towing artillery. Do you know exactly what variant your grandfather had?
  3. Thanks H/K/G! I think weathering is a key element in tank models. I think it was Shep Paine who said tanks don't move on the land; they move through it. So, I add a degree of scrapes, scratches, abrasions, chips, mud, dirt, and dust. Apart from the occasional dented/wrinkled fender, I don't usually put a lot of battle damage on them. Or stowage. Just a thing, I wonder if there's a class in there somewhere... I can't see much difference in weathering a Sherman vs a Warhammer Baneblade...
  4. Thanks all. I'm still pushing the ordnance category at ReaperCon. Gotta keep Heisler on his toes...
  5. This is Tamiya's 1/35th scale M10 Tank Destroyer as depicted in a late 1944 time-frame. It's open-topped, so you get a view into the turret and fighting compartment interior. I swapped the kit-provided rubber-block tracks for the later rubber-chevron tracks from Tamiya's M4 Sherman kit. Due to the open topped nature of the vehicle, it's built and painted in layers - lower hull interior, upper hull interior, turret halves, then the exterior. There are no driver's compartment components included in the kit (not that you could see them). I used Tamiya paints for the overall Olive Drab and interior white, with an assortment of Reaper MSP acrylics, colored pencils, and chalks for the weathering. I did build up some old mud on the lower hull and rear using Tamiya's gray putty (troweled on, then stippled with an old oil painting brush). No stowage... Qs and Cs welcomed.
  6. Thanks everyone! The hat is a combination of the Bones browns starting with Charred Brown for the deep shadows and working up with Nut Brown, Saddle Brn, Rich Leather, and Polished Leather. The last color was Tanned Leather (MSP). The paint was stippled on with an raggedy old oil painting brush. The idea was to depict worn leather. The jacket was painted with the Highland Moss triad with Linen White added for the lighter areas. These colors were also stippled on with the oil painting brush. The idea was to create the look of worn, faded green velvet. In both cases, the technique is similar to dry-brushing, but I used a stabbing instead of dragging or whisking the brush over the surface. The brush is also not fully loaded with paint, but has more that the typical dry-brush amount. I also rotated the brush as I stippled to avoid a /////// pattern. The basic technique is also handy for weathering tanks. No secrets... Cheers.
  7. Sea Storm is a resin female pirate bust from Altores Studios in 1/9th scale. The piece is basically the head/body, the hat, pipe, and a loop earring. I replaced the earring with copper wire. Apart from some mold trash where the coat and torso meet, there were no major issues. Primed with my dwindling supply of Floquil Railroad Colors' Gray Primer and painted with Reaper acrylics. Questions and Comments welcomed... ain't no secrets here. Glen
  8. Thanks all. Normally, mudding them up like this isn't my thing. I like to do what I call technical representations - scratches, scrapes, chipping, fluid stains, faded paint, and the dust and dirt of a dry summer day. This one was an exception because the markings and paint scheme were specific to the Ardennes in Dec '44. That said, Ordnance 8 will also have a mud treatment as well due it being in the late fall of '44. Still mulling the piles of external stowage...
  9. This is Tamiya's 1/35th scale Jagdpanzer IV tank destroyer. The vehicle was based on the Pzkpfw IV tank's lower hull with a new turret-less 75mm L70 gun. The gun had limited traverse and elevation. The vehicle was produced from late 1944 to nearly the end of the war. The kit was built mostly out-of-the-box with only and added headlight wire, tool latches, and jack block and rear towing pintle retaining chains added. Airbrushed Panzer Dark Yellow with brushed on Red-Brown and Dark Green camo. The red and green were left a bit patchy to simulate being quickly painted by the crew. I used the the kit decals. Weathering was a combination of colored and soft lead pencils, Reaper acrylics, and chalk pastels. The mud was Tamiya's Gray Model Putty troweled on and left to sit for a bit before being stippled with with an old oil painting brush. It was painted after the putty had hardened. It's dirtier than my usual tank models. Still not buried in stowage, tho'. Qs and Cs welcomed. Glen
  10. This is also the bust that is used in my RC Painting Hair and Makeup class. The casting is a bit rough in spots and yours truly gets to clean all of them up before priming...
  11. Zen and the Art of Painting Miniatures. Ommmmmmmm...
  12. Ah, I get it now. I found the Ausf M above. I've built Tam's Pzkpfw III Ausf L myself - eastern front Panzer Grey. Basically out of the box + 10%. What Panther are you working on?
  13. So far, so good... Outside of the gun breech, Tamiya doesn't normally include interiors in closed top AFVs. They leave that for the aftermarket. Not sure how far you're going with this, but drill out the MG barrels if you haven't done so. I can't tell. Turret-mounted smoke mortars seem to have been rare on this variant, but weren't completely unknown. They were more common on the Ausf M, the short barreled Ausf N, and Ausf K command tanks. If you want to go nuts, add the cable leads (thin copper wire) at the back of the mortar barrels, twist them together, and insert the three into the turret right behind the mount. Add the lead (also thin copper wire) from the fender Notek lamp base out to the edge of the fender, then down into hull plate. Again, not sure how far you're going... The tight shot patterns indicate a derelict vehicle being used as target practice by the other side. The hits on the track links would likely have severed the track pin(s) and forced the links up and apart. 'Sand' indicates North Africa? Waiting for more!
  14. Thanks. Subtle makeup is your friend...
  15. Some progress. I've painted the dress and hood a blue-green - complement to the red-orange hair. The neckline and hood have silver stripes on the, but they're not readily apparent here. The dragon is painted a dark violet - a second split complement/triad to the dress color. The fire surrounding the dragon is basically a mix of Adamantium (a metallic black) and Blackened Steel, while the flame tips are Scorched Metal darkened with more Adamantium. It's what I'm calling Black Fire. Black Fire casts little light. I have my reasons... the box art shows the dragon bathed in green fire. The entire front of the figure is then bathed in the green light. I thought it was a bit of OSL overkill since everything was green... a well done green, but I wanted some color in there. Hence, a non-OSL generating Black Fire. More to follow. Stay safe and well.
  16. I've mocked up the figure so I could work on the house. It's a brown stone... I've fixed the face (pics later) and started to paint her dress/cowl. It's a bit catch-as-catch can. Good weather means yardwork and I ain't gettin' any younger...
  17. Pioneer and maintenance tools were included with the tank. Rations and crew stuff were from the quartermaster. Or a wrecked wine shop. Vive l'France!
  18. Tank you both! I do get called out on the lack of stowage thing sometimes. Appropriate for dios, but I like to show the technical aspects of the vehicle. I don't mud them up for the same reason. Call me a rebel...
  19. Aaaaand, we're done! I've added the .50 cal MG, the rear exhaust diffuser (the grill thing) and stowage rack and a few more scrapes and scratches, dusty washes, and chalks. I'm thinking April 1945 here and few dry days, so no mud packed into the running gear. It's also devoid of stowage, which I prefer, but may add later. Maybe... Qs and Cs welcomed.
  20. I would agree; which is why I thinned the lower lash line right after I posted the pic. Great minds think alike... The upper lash is a bit more problematic. If you look at the face close-up in the first batch of pics you can see the upper 'lash' is a large zig-zag shape. I'm still not totally sure if this represents lashes or something else. I lean towards the former, so it was painted as such. Remember, one of the purposes behind eye makeup is to make the eyes bigger. Maybe in the this case, a bit too big... As for the hair color; it's the basic Carrot Top triad + Fire Orange (appropriate, think) + Linen White. For the most part, red hair can range from dark auburn ( red-brown) down to bright orange with final lights being near white. You can start with pretty much any dark red-brown and work up to light oranges, yellows, and warm whites. It's a fantasy piece, so there's no rules. Google (images) red hair and you'll what I mean. My take anyway...
  21. Progress! Hair, face, peachy-pink lipstick, same color as a glaze for the blush. Still working the eyes - trying to get them looking straight at the dragon she's holding in her hands. Touch-ups needed where skin meets hair... One thing I noticed is that the eyes seem a bit large. Not quite anime/manga, but getting there. Additionally, her left eye and socket appears to be rotated back at the top. Also the area under the jaw at her throat had a casting flaw. It's not visible unless you look under her chin. Pressing on.
  22. More weathering and fiddly bits... Bits o' dust and dirt. More scrapes, abrasions, stains, and some greasy bits on the engine deck screens and the rear engine access door (which you can't see here). A.50cal MG has to fitted to the turret roof and spared track links and a stowage rack on the rear hull plate. I also test fitted the main gun - a long-barreled 76mm piece firing a hyper-velocity anti-tank round. The gun is and aftermarket turned aluminum piece. It, and the three brush guards on the front hull hatches and the turret roof, are the only aftermarket pieces on the model. Everything else is plastic or brass sheet, strip, rod, or tube.
  23. Standifer, so we're talking cajun...? Eyes in progress. I went with blue. The eyes seem a bit large - like they're walking into anime/manga territory. There's also large stylized eyelashes on her left eye. At least I think they're eyelashes... The lashes on the right eye are covered by the hair. The eye liner and lashes will get trimmed and cleaned up when I start the flesh tones.
  24. Thanks. The muscle definition was thanks to the sculptor; I just put some dirty paint on it.
  25. Yup... What Doug said. Flat paints are flat because the paint is rough and scatters light in different directions. It's akin to laying a sheet over microscopic mountains - the sheet sits on the peaks, while the air is trapped in the valleys. The clear gloss fills in the valleys and goes over the peaks providing a smooth bond for the decal's adhesive. Click on the link in the March 6 post for more info. Salud.
  • Create New...