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Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Alex3

  1. I could see dropping an AOE on a party member if I knew they'd be ok and it was worth it. For example, kill off the last few monsters and then there'd be time to heal that damage right back. You're not in the way, she just needs to learn to place her spells. It's her responsibility to do so every time. However, when moving try to think about where she usually places her spells, how much space she needs, and where the monsters are standing. Put yourself in a place that leaves a good spot for her to attack as well. A nice open area full of multiple enemies and no you in the way. If she chooses to include you in the blast rather than taking the optimal spot, there's a different issue here. It's also possible she's just bad and doesn't realise there are better spots. The way I figure out spell ranges in D&D 3.5 is I take a mat-board cutout of the spell radius and hold it above the field to see what's included. Maybe help her out by showing her a better way to cast the spell. Just politely say "you could drop that here and it'd hit the same enemies but not me." If it's a serious problem (like if the damage is actually messing you up and making combat riskier for you) the other players should notice. Say to the healer you need a heal and point out why (not to be mean, just after the spell hits 'hey can you heal me a bit when you can? I'll be ok for now but that puts me at ##'
  2. Tamiya's come in a little eyeshadow-style container with a brush, so I like them a lot. You also get I think four colours in a set, so if you don't paint huge armies and vehicles that's a better value.
  3. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/41780-krug-hill-giant-chieftan/page__p__587416__hl__muscle__fromsearch__1entry587416 Some good examples and tips there. There's a learn to paint kit by reaper that teaches painting skin, and one of the minis is a muscular man. http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1227 Here's a nice article on another website that might help you out anatomy-wise. Remember, muscles are RED under your skin, blood is blue, fat is yellow. If you take this into account in skin colour you can add a lot of realism and variations in skin tone. That's usually for 2d painting but it could apply to miniatures as well, especially if you have bulging veins next to manly muscles. The veins would have a purplish tone and stand out against the pinkish muscles.
  4. That foam sounds very useful for making terrain in general. Could it be used to create uneven ground or boulders? Is it durable?
  5. I clicked one, started watching them through youtube, and then thought "I wish I could search them by mini reviewed." Then I facepalm. Thanks for compiling these. :)
  6. If you're ok with spending $$, I know Gale Force Nine has snow for terrain. I'm not sure what it's like, though. Personally the only snow material I've used is from Skullcrafts, but it was a little bag that came in a kit. It's really nice, it's kind of like flock but smaller particles and a few shiny bits to make it sparkle. I like to lay down fine white sand + glue then sprinkle the 'snow' over that, then pack it down with my fingers. That way it's not too fluffy but still looks soft, plus you're not wasting a ton of snow building up (that's what the sand is for, I mean.) Hope that helped. Here's Gale Force Nine's snow: http://www.thewarstore.com/product26662.html And here's "tundra/ash flock foundation" whatever that is. http://www.thewarstore.com/product37041.html That's a good online shop imo, good prices etc. Though that stuff should be available just about anywhere you like to shop. :o ETA- Beast, Skullcrafts now sells all their kit stuff separate. http://www.skullcrafts.com/flock_scatter.htm
  7. I'd recommend just getting the khaki and mixing a few drops of grey in the bottle, but probably best to find a good recipe first so you don't waste it. A few other colours/triads worth looking at might be.. Aged Bone (+ Bone Shadow)- Another good brown-grey, but it's really light like the khaki. Brown Sand(and the entire Soil triad)- More brown than grey, but sort of a darker 'khaki' brown. Earth Brown is similar. Dusky Skin- Greyish but has a little red/purple hue to it, it's warm so it might go better with a brown wash/drybrush than a blue-grey. Stone Grey- This + brown, olive or khaki depending on how light/dark you want it could work really well. Again, adding drops to the bottle and shaking might work better for painting something so large.
  8. That's neat, but imo too old-fashioned antique (I guess that's the idea... but it looks like a spice-rack to me.) With my Custom Framing Shop job I have strange insight into such things; I offer it incase someone has a need for one of these and the drive to make it. It's possible to put 'shelves' with spaces like that together using foamcore with a multi-opening mat in front. Stick the whole thing in a shadowbox with glass and a back that opens, and you'd be able to switch the minis whenever you liked (or base each individual window for micro-dioramas.) Though the whole thing might cost $50-$150 depending on your choice of materials, so idk if anyone'd be willing. :P
  9. An evil rat would be cute maybe? It'd have to be a pretty big mini, but maybe a plastic toy from a dollar store or michaels would work. I'm just thinking of the rat in The Nutcracker, I guess, which might fit the Christmass theme. It could also have a 'horde' of cheese, or something else a mouse might want. A snake might also work, if you want to keep the reptilian aspect of a dragon. You could easily find a properly scaled rubber snake. With a little touch up of its face for the proper 'emotion' and some wire to pose it, you'd have a fearsome villain. Also having it coiled around them (think snake-Jafar vs. Aladdin in the Disney movie) would make the enemy seem overwhelmingly large to the mice, while not making the diorama massive.
  10. There's actually a "tiny" mini of an oozeything that wotc makes. It'd be plastic but if the reaper ones don't work, that might. It's pretty small though, the base is like 15mm if that.
  11. He looks great :) I painted a bear like that, and was disappointed that it lacked.. pizzazz. I think it's just a hard mini to make special, but your base looks cool and it's painted well. I always wanted to add barding or a saddle to mine (my druid rode her bear around a lot) but I never got around to it. It's interesting, from the angle in the first photo he looks somewhat vicious, but in the second photo he looks more curious. <3
  12. You could get clear plastic from any package.. like for a toy. But it's fairly hard and wouldn't be bendable, unless you melted it. Could also try plastic wrap... wrap it around something in the shape of what you want, then apply glue.. peel it off and it might keep the form. You know those little capsules you can buy from like, gumball machines? In the front of a grocery? They have silly putty or toys etc inside and cost like 50c. Those might be the right size to envelope a mini, if you're trying to do something like that... Would be like a little bubble, and if you used greenstuff to build from the base up to the bubble (assuming it's lifted off the base, because it's not tall enough..) you could paint that part to make it look like more opaque magicstuff. ..I don't think I'm making any sense, now. Good luck anyway, I'm hoping someone will have a better answer, since this sounds really neat. :) Oh another more bendable but less seran-wrappy option would be mylar but idk where normal people could get it, I'd just jack some from work.
  13. Thanks so much, it really means a lot.
  14. Taylor Love, the little girl in the red dress, is fighting cancer for the second time in her short life. Please follow this link and vote to help. http://tinyurl.com/armswideapp The voting ends tomorrow, and they need a few more. If the charity wins they get some money from pepsi, which they'll use to research and develop less toxic cancer treatment for children. Thanks so much ♥
  15. I watched the commercial on here earlier and then, when watching tv, I saw it! I told everyone the tale and they were very impressed, and agreed that they looked real. :) Grats!
  16. What mini is that? (eta- found it using file name heh.. ty anyway!) I was totally about to make an NPC mini that had a creepyskullmask and was thinking I'd have to convert it. Glad I saw this. To add my voice to the chorus- Super Glue will work fine, any sort. You can just slather it on the tab and the base itself and/or the mini's feet (or petticoats in this case) and he'll stay put, especially after priming it. Because he'll stand himself (sortof) you can just put glue, set him down, and let him dry without having to hold two parts together; which is frigginawesome. Good luck painting. OH ps if there is a gap on the base after and you don't want to mess with greenstuff or do anything too elaborate, you can cover it up while basing it with glue-sand. Glue-sand is what I use, anyway, to base minis. It's a delicate mixture of sand and glue. It might not work for this figure, but just letting you know some options. <3
  17. Alton Brown would be proud... The laminated lake thing sounds pretty beast. Do you have photos? :)
  18. I once created a spiral staircase out of mats and it didn't bend under the weight of minis. Mat board can be also thicker than usual, if you go to a frame shop ask for "8 ply." It'll be stronger than cardboard. Glue and tape shouldn't warp a mat, though a lot of paint might. The mats come in different colours so you can just pick grey for stone, green for a forest feeling or whatever. There are also mats with non-paper tops, like suede or vinyl. I use Suede mat because the minis don't slip off that at angles. I recommend it for any ramps you make. :) For the grid on the mats I always use a CMC(computerised mat cutter) to cut grooves into it, but you can also use a pencil etc. Another good material would be foam core. It'd be better for the supports, though, as it's plain-white and not very attractive. It's got a plastic coating on it that would make it resilient to water-damage to some degree. Mats won't work for the cylinders themselves because they're round, but a framer with a CMC could cut circles for you. (or any shape.) I wish I had the ones I've done for my d&d game here I'd photo them to show you... but, to show you how strong they can be- That's a lightbox I made out of mats, so the sides are actually cut mats- not solid ones. But it still holds that much weight. :o I think I'm gonna try to make a staircase like that now, it looks pretty awesome. :)
  19. I like the colour scheme you did. It's cool to see minis painted differently like that.. she's usually in colourful robes lookin' like a normal person or perhaps a wizard, but yours looks like a witch (or maybe she's just gothy lol) The area around her neck looks really cool, it reminds me a lot of Illidan from Warcraft if you've played those games.. the bright green on purple I mean. Have you done the Learn to Paint kits Reaper makes? They're a good way to get a bunch of paint, brushes and practice minis for cheap and they teach you a lot if you are just starting. I say this because I, too, am a noob. ;D Oh and her eyes look shut to me, like she has on black eyeshadow. Is that intentional? Sorry I can't see in the picture very well. I thought it looked cool but I saw you mentioned painting the pupils. If you do decide to do pupils (and for the bodice laces this might help) you can buy a tinytinytiny brush from Michaels for like, 5 bucks. Just save it for the tinytiny details like that. And wipe off the paint before you do it so there's not even a drop, that way it's light.. you just brush it on gently, so if you miss it's not a big deal. I hope this was helpful. ETA- The paint-on primer only works well if you shake it like a polaroid picture before using it. :) If you try spray on you'll fall in love. Citadel or Army-painter are good brands, you only need 1-2 coats.. just do light sprays from different angles until there's no more silver. It dries quickly and as long as you don't get it all drippy it won't mess up the details. I would also recommend keeping a q-tip, paper towel scrap, and straight pins around. If you ever mess up you can quickly dab away paint with a wet q-tip, if the paint is thin enough (like a wash) a bit of napkin will suck it back off the mini, and a straight pin can be used to scrap away some semi-dried paint which is good for detailed difficult areas where you paint over and over trying to get it right. The paint shouldn't be completely dry, it only works well the same day.
  20. My Warhammer friends bought three wooden boards from Home Depot for their games. They lay them on the floor to play, and they aren't very heavy and they were p cheap. They painted em brown (with latex paint) and sprinkled some sand on to make some parts a little rough. Then we made separate terrain that can be set down on the boards. We also have the GW grass-mat, it was more expensive but it's pretty good too. Especially for delicate tabletops.. though on the floor minis can fall over if someone leans on it wrong. If you make any modular terrain I'd like to see em. We have about 10 pieces but with the new GW book there are many new ones and I'm always looking for ways to make them. I have kind of been winging it so far. :P
  21. Do you want to see the figure's eyes through the lenses? I had a similar question about painting the lenses on glasses so they looked 'real,' so I'm hoping to benefit from the responses you receive as well. :3
  22. If you want the bar to look cheap you could make all the mugs miss-matched. Like a few metal ones, maybe stained, warped or rusted. Then a few wood ones, maybe some jars/cans/bottles etc to mix it up. It looks awesome so far, I'm really looking forward to the finished version! :) Oh you could also have a bowl of peanuts. :3 The shells on the floor.. or a spill etc.
  23. The gems on his belt look awesome. And on the axe I like that too, it really stands out and looks like it's shining or maybe even glowing a bit. The green flock pez5767 mentioned does look kind of weird, but if it's moss maybe you could paint it a little. Could make it darker or maybe that lichen colour. The brightbrightgreen just stands out against the natural bark/rock too much imo. :) ps- That beard is legendary.
  24. For my group I usually just do the characters using Reaper minis and then we have a box of the pre-painted D&D minis for enemies. They sell huge-sized creatures at a good price on miniature market, and you usually don't find the same huge-sized (or larger) creature more than once. Combat with a monster usually ends with a dead monster, so unless the DM wanted to invest time/money into a nice reaper mini for the final boss of the campaign I don't think you're usually going to find such large models being used for D&D. I think the big ones are better for dioramas and stuff.. it's just impractical to throw down 30+ bucks for a heavier mini you have to paint if you're not going to reuse it, unless it's for display purposes. :)
  25. A wash would be really thinned ink or paint. You can mix it yourself but basically they're selling it to you pre-mixed with stuff in it to make it flow better. You said clear paint, like "Clear Red" ? Those are for mixing with other paints, mostly.. like you'd add it to another paint to make it more red. They're just really vibrant, though I don't know what their consistency or coverage is like. Oh and if it says 'shadow' it just means it's a darker version of that colour. Like there's Fair Skin and then Fair Skin Shadow, which is for shading Fair Skin. Same with Highlight (tho it's obvs lighter.) Hope this helps. I'm sure the pros can give much better explanations. ETA- Found this in a stickied thread:
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