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Bones Supporter
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About ferret

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  • Birthday August 31

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  1. I am interested but never had an opportunity to play Starfinder so I am not familiar with the rules. I plan to sit in on one of the demo games at ReaperVrtual to get an overview before digging into the core rulebook. Do you anticipate a need for players to have more than the core rulebook for your game?
  2. That's Ziba,Female Efreeti (44003). She is the figure being used in the Multicultural Skin class at Reaper virtual.
  3. I think the solvents are more problematic than the sealant itself. I had stickiness issues when I used a general purpose clear matte paint some years ago.. I know little about solvents, but xylene which is used in many spray paints will soften or dissolve PVC (and some other plastics) so I would not use anything with xylene on bones. I also avoid paints using acetone although I don’t think it is as bad for plastic as xylene. I have had no problems using Army Painter Matte Varnish or any of the spray acrylic sprays intended for art (Windsor & Newton, Krylon, Liquitex, etc.). My guess is they use less aggressive solvents since they are for sealing aryclic and watercolor paintings.
  4. Interesting.... I have avoided GURPS in part because I am intimidated by the sheer volume of the rules and the apparent complexity of PC creation. I see Discworld is a stand alone game presented in a single book of about 300 pages. I assume it simplifies PC creation and leaves out GURPS rules that are not needed for the setting, I wonder if it might be a good way to try GURPS for about half the cost of the core rules and without being totally overwhelmed. It may be worth considering if I can find someone player willing to give it a go or better yet find someone able to GM a GURPS game.
  5. Anyone tried Alclad II flat or matte clear lacquer? I have seen some positive reviews but have not yet tried it. Doesn't come in a rattle can but is made for airbrush use. I thought it might be a substitute for Dullcote since both are flat lacquers for models.
  6. @ferret box received by @Corsair on 2/4 -- posted in chatter thread.
  7. I had problems with using Vallejo Surface Primer on large models. It went on fine but did not adhere well and came off with normal handling of the model. I have had much better results with Badger Stynlytez Primer and with Vallejo Mecha Primer (both by airbrush and as brush on). As far as rattle cans go, i use Army Painter Colour Primers on Bones with no problems. I suggest you check out the Bones First Coat thread by @Wren in the Reaper Product Lines section of this forum. It includes a list of the spray on primer cans that people seem to find ok and those with reported problems.
  8. I am uncertain about the "Demos" and the descriptions on Warhorn are very cryptic. Are demos basically watching some folks play a game while they explain what they are doing or do those who sign up for it have some active role? Is it expected/necessary to be familiar with the system's core rules or to have a copy of the core rulebook? I am looking at one of the Starfinder demos as a possible opportunity to see if it appeals to me enough to buy the rulebook, etc. Of course, if I would need to buy the core rulebook or learn the rules before participating in the demo, that would defeat my objective.
  9. Yes, the storage tray is really flimsy, about like on a blister pack and has no lid. I replaced it with a plastic box I found at Dollar Tree (pack of 3 for $1). It fits the opening perfectly. It isn't as tall, but I put a thin foam sheet under it and it works fine.
  10. Looks like the same case as the ReaperCon paint set came in. I agree with @mikem91 that it is a good idea to glue the paint frame to the box since it is a bit loose. But, I just used a bit of poster tac on the contact points in case I needed to remove the frame to clean the case. My main use for the case is travelling. I put a few minis in the "dead space" and whatever paints I plan to use in the rack.
  11. I was delighted to see a Dungeon Crawler Classics game on the schedule! Nothing like a little "old school" RPG fun. To paraphrase the publisher, let's play as 1974 intended you to do.
  12. Buglips covered it well. Only thing I have slight doubt about is the need for a relatively recent pc. I have no issues using Zoom on a laptop that is over ten years old (admittedly one with an Intel I7 processor and lots of memory). I haven't done any research but suspect any PC running Windows 10 should be fine. Also, zoom will run on platforms other than pc but I haven't tried to do so. Edit - adding link to Zoom system requirements https://support.zoom.us/hc/en-us/articles/201362023-System-requirements-for-Windows-macOS-and-Linux#h_a79491c9-bcd0-4ce5-97a2-3739971edf59
  13. Thanks for the advice about the weathering classes. I can't make Dave's class because a time conflict, but am thinking of making it my "weathering weekend" and go for both of the other classes.
  14. I would like to do a weathering class but not sure whichone. "Dirty and Distressed" and "Weathering 101" both cover applying weathering effects to the Bones dumpster (80035). There doesn't seem to be much difference in the brief description of the techniques to be used.and both appear to be intermediate level demos. No PDF handout or supply list for either. I don't want to do both. So anyone have some advice on which class would be better?
  15. FYI, @Wren recently posted that she no longer uses soap and water to clean Bones as described in the guide unless there is something visible that needs to be removed. She now dips the figures in alcohol which she found does a better job.
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