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About SFwriter

  • Birthday 02/02/1973

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  • Location
    Englewood, CO
  • Interests
    Well, since you asked, my interests include painting miniatures, building dioramas for them, the Star Wars Epic, and reading various fantasy novels.

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  1. ARGHHHH! I'm at my wits end. Because Denver's average temperature during the winter is 50 or lower, it makes it impossilbe for me to spray anyting outside and get a good coat (since all the spray paints I've seen are only good at a minimum of 65 degrees). Oh, and I don't have a garage either (since I'm renting). Therefore, I've attempted to air brush inside with a compressor but the fumes (non-toxic as they are) smell up the house and I get a fine dusting almost everywhere. I've tried brush on matte varnishes from Model Master, Vallejo, and GW but everything comes out glossy. So my question is, how can I get a good, solid, flatter then dead, matte coat without spraying! Any and all suggestions are welcome and desperately sought after. Thanks in advance!
  2. Well, whenever I've done a curved surface I've had to use curves instead of straight lines. Hence the reason I pointed you to link, not for the NMM but for a look to see how colors "bend" around surfaces. When painting it you need a very thin mixture and then just follow the curve going from dark to light. Therefore, its no different than doing "straight" line highlighting you're just curving it so that it follows the contours of the piece. Whether wet-blending or layering its still the same idea of just following the contours to get the smallest and brightest highlight at the top or tip of the piece. Really, its helpful to look through Anne's work in the Gallery and pay close attention to the curved surfaces. I hope that helps.
  3. Welcome to the boards. As for your question I'd have to say its one of the toughest things to do. Blending a curved surface requires a precise knowledge of your light source and how it will reflect on the surface in question. I would suggest reading this article (even though it refers to NMM). Its helpful and if the links are working then its really helpful. Other suggestions would be to refer to other artists work and, of course, thin thin paints. I hope that helps a little. Crispy's Article on NMM
  4. Personally I think CMON is an invaluable tool for sales. I typically post on eBay with Turbolister then immediately set up with CMON to feature my listings (even with only 4 or 5 minis). I find that with the "Featured Auctions" I get 100+ views and exposure, versus only 30 or so without it. And, more views means the possiblity for more bids and/or sales. Therefore, the price for credits its worth every penny. PS. Setting up your own website for viewing and promoting is also helpful.
  5. Well, I've sold many dioramas and, not to toot my own horn too loud, they've made me gobs of money! My rule for pricing them is typically $15 to $25 per figure + $20 for the base. As for packing, be paranoid and pack the baby with the best material you can buy, The Container Store is a perfect place to look and don't be afraid to take a loss with the shipping materials vs. what you charge for shipping. Oh, and always get insurance and ship via UPS if possible.
  6. I have first hand experience dealing with GW and what they will allow in a title AND a description. Here's the link to the list of words that GW has rights too. Look carefully because if you use ANY ONE OF THEM with ANYTHING other then that figure they can nail you. GW words Notice such words as Citadel, Codex, and Ork. Technically any of these words used in the title or description, according to GW Lega, with any figure not made by GW is grounds for your listing to be pulled and for possible legal action. As for D&D, Painted, and Reaper, those are fine. Also, once you've built a following or customer base, using your initials or name helps people find your listings quicker (mine is PRS for Painting Raven Studios). My pet peve are titles like Well Painted, AWESOME, MUST SEE, etc. My general rule, keep it simple and to the point.
  7. I had a similar experience with the last sale I made. The guy took forever to get back to me and I'd sent him three emails in addition to the eBay provide invoice and reminder. Sometimes people get destracted. In my case the guy had bought nearly 10 minis that day and mine was only one among the ten. So, naturally I figured he forgot mine (since through research I found out that the other 9 were paid for the day the auctions ended). Through nice, professional, yet firm emails stating my policies he finally contacted me (stating that he indeed forgot and was on vacation the entire time) and got payment to me post haste. So, come your deadline give him 24 hours, email him once letting him know what you intend and why (being polite the entire time). Then, if the person still doesn't respond, relist and report it. That's what I think.
  8. I haven't tried escrow but for payment I accept Paypal only and it gets me a few perks from Paypal. Of course, for business reasons I use my Paypal account as a business account (debit card, money market account, etc.) and I've never had any problems. Of course, they take their share of each deposit but then pay me back with cashback bonuses for using their debit card. I tried Money Orders and Cashier's checks but got annoyed with how long it took for people to get the payments too me (I'm a little impatient when it comes to money ). And I find that the customers I have generally pay the same day the auctions end. So that's my two cents.
  9. Ditto I only adjust the contrast, brightness, color, etc. to get a closer, more acurate picture of the mini I'm selling as well. Sometimes, even under the best conditions, picture just don't show up well the first take. 'Nuff said.
  10. Sfwriter here (because back when I registered I was into writing) painting raven on eBay (since I stopped writing and now I paint).
  11. Okay, I'll give it stab... NMM = Non Metallic Metallic; a relatively newer technique of painting metal surfaces on a mini without using metallic paints (I believe the Rackham/Confrontation guys in France started it or something). Its an advanced technique that takes a lot of time to master. Drybrushing = With only a little bit of paint on the brush, drag it lightly along a raised surface of the mini. (the brush should seem almost devoid of paint). Its really best done on fur. Wet Blending = I believe you ment this term, since wet brushing is just painting (I think :) ), but this is taking two colors, putting them side by side, and then blending between them while they are both still wet. Its an advanced technique that many can't master (personally I hate it, and prefer layering instead). I'll let others answer the rest, but that should cover some of the tough ones. :cool:
  12. Haven't done a mummy but I've done bandages. The way I go about it is laying down a base coat of buckskin, then a wash of either oiled leather, or a brown ink. Highlight with buckskin, then ivory, then light touches of white here an there. (sorry no photos to help) :cool:
  13. If I understand the question, you're wondering how to "link" one of your photos? Right? I believe the first trick is making sure your website provider allows for remote access. If so, your off to a good start. Then its just a matter of copying the http:// location into the url field. Example: http://www.paintingraven.com/images/BalthorF.jpg will take you to a picture of one of my minis. Its a link. Now, I'm no IT Professional, but I think this is the answer to your question. If not, then please ignore my entire reply! :D
  14. HEY! THEY DON"T LOOK THAT BAD! :p Actually, if you use the above formula you'll probably look more like Harry Potter!
  15. I haven't done it a while but I remember the cutting discs not cutting it! :oo: But, the heavy duty sanding drums work wonderfully! I think I've also used the Fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel to good effect. But, for sanding down to the feet, I definately recommend the sanding drums.
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