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Trenchknife

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About Trenchknife

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  • Birthday 06/27/1977

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    Male
  • Location
    Amarillo, TX
  1. I was wondering if a fiber optic cable would be sufficient. At least with the LED being directly in the blade hilt I won't have to worry about running the cable...just the wires. Where would you recommend that I look to find the clear plastic sword?
  2. OK, just so everyone knows, this is the Harbinger... I didn't paint this or assemble it. I just like the picture so everyone can have an idea of what I have to work with and what the miniature is intended to look like. Also, this is in the 26mm scale. Here's my idea for the conversion. I'm going to lose the banner and banner pole, the sword, and probably the shoulder pads as well. I want the figure to have her arms raised high, both hands on a sword held above her head, with the point straight up to the heavens. That's not the hard part though. The hard part I need help with is this: I want to use a piece of crystal, glass or plastic for the sword. I want to run a small fiber optic cable from the hilt of the sword to and LED, and I want to connect that LED to a batter so that I can make the sword glow FOR REAL! Additionally, where should I go to purchase these sorts of paraphenelia? This will be my first time playing with this kind of thing and I was hoping that all the people here could help me out. Ahead of time let me say, "Thanks for the help, I'm gonna need it!"
  3. Huh...odd thought. I was thinking about your whip, and I came up with a 'candle' dipping idea. Though I have no idea if it would work right as I haven't tried it. Get a sturdy bit of wire to the correct shape. Paint that as dark as you want your deep water to be. Then layer on with a series of coats with either of the Woodland Scenics products 'Water Effects' or 'Realistic Water'. Both will give you a fairly clear effect and the base color of the wire should bleed through either. I just don't know whether the realistic water would be thick enough to stick to the wire, and the drawback to either is the lengthy drying time. Well, that's my one bright idea for the day.
  4. Heh...used a bit of Future when I was in the army. That smell is likely to bring back some memories. Well, I'm off to purchase some paint and other sundries. I'll post some pics of my experimentations for perusal when I get them done up. Thanks for all the tips folks. I appreciate the help.
  5. Huh, never tried mixing color into a varnish before...not sure why I haven't thought of it either. :) What sort of proportions would you recommend as a starting point for experimentation?
  6. I used to just use the GAW paintline, but I've been slowly converting to the Reaper Master series so that's likely what I'll be using. So for the green, I should primer then use a green (medium to dark) as a base coat. After that brush over with a thinned green ink. Just making sure I'm not missing steps here. If that doesn't work out do to the smoothness, do you have any other ideas for the green? As for the silk, I'm not a hugely experienced painter, but I'm trying to develop my skills. So....by highlighting your talking about a sequential lightening of the color to white, but in this case leave out the white? Thanks for the help so far Anne.
  7. Here's my goal. I wish to use this color scheme for some 40K-Tau that I am putting together. The issue I'm having is how to get the colors I'm seeing here. I want a lacquered look to the green, and the yellow needs to retain that sense of...subdued shininess(?) of silk. So...anyone got any real good ideas. I'm up to buying paints, so don't feel shy suggesting different combinations or techniques as I plan on practicing a bit before I start on the army. Thanks for the help.
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