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Everything posted by Wumby

  1. My wife and I actually went to the same high school. I was quarterback and she was the homecoming....nope, that's someone else's story. I was two years older than her and dated all of her friends. (At least that's how she tells the story, which is quite accurate.) We didn't "meet" until the end of my 3rd year at undergrad, her 1st year...different schools. I finally buckled under peer pressure one night and went to Cotton Eyed Joes in Knoxville...Country-Western Line-Dance club. I hate this scene and most people in it, however, I went this time. I watched all my inebriated friends make idiots of themselves, while she and I made fun of our mutual friends that night. She thought I was a club rat, I thought she was nice. So I persisted on pursuing her until she broke under my peer pressure and married me almost 7 years ago now.
  2. Egg: So I did a quick Google search and found Badger Airbrushes. There were 3 different ones in the 200 series, would you think that the "detail" one would be the one I would need...well I know I am specifically asking about it for a tank, but if I could use it on typical figures that would be great too. Here's the link I used/found: link.
  3. I came up with for a quick you tube search. Essentially it shows the basic technique.
  4. Also, use a crappy brush...or at least one that you aren't planning on using for any type of detail work. Consistent drybrushing wreaks havoc on the bristles. It does sound like there is too much paint on your brush too. Check out you-tube to see if some kind soul has posted a video of themselves drybrushing or check out your local store and see if someone will demonstrate for you. If you are like me, seeing is much better than just reading.
  5. Heisler: I think it does only run on canned air...probably with a special fitting that works only with GW. I assumed that there wouldn't be much control with the spray and that I would have to do a lot of masking, which I may even do if I go with a better spray gun. Thank you for your thoughts. Fieldarchy: Great suggestion on checking out cheap kits that have all the stuff with it, thank you.
  6. Ok, for some reason. I'm feeling the want to build and paint a tank. Whether its a GW tank or any historic model, don't know, don't really care. (Probably won't happen anytime soon either.) So I was thinking an airbrush would be fun to use on the large flat surfaces and fun to make camo with. Now, back in the day, 20+ years ago, when I built model cars, I had a Testors airbrush that I actually liked and it painted my camaro nice and even. Ok, so here's my question. GW does have a cheap Spray Gun, has anyone used it? Is it decent? I know that there are numerous folks on here who have much higher quality airbrushes, but I was thinking of going cheap since there will probably be infrequent usage. Any thoughts, reviews, links, etc...? Thank you in advance.
  7. Have you attempted to see if your department would help create some kind of independent study for you to knock that course out?
  8. Part of the League of Justice and Caeke, limited editions found here at Reaper.
  9. Any suggestions on getting the blade not so flat? I started with RMS Pewter, gave it a P3 armor wash, then highlighted with GW Mithril Silver. Thought it looked hideous, did it again, did it again, said I'm done with it and went straight Mithril Silver. Just couldn't get it done right, so, I'm thinking NMM is in short order or at least an attempt with the "true metallics." (I really like my metal paints, just can't use them very well.) And, yes, the base is MicroArt. I already have another base ready to roll for Platypod. Which will come along in a few months, I'm terribly slow and will be moving soon.
  10. Ok, so I just noticed that I didn't paint the vambrace, so you don't need to comment on that. My metals are horrible, ie the sword. I'm working on the courage to attempt NMM, but for now I am honing my skills at layering/thinning/smoother transitions from shading up to highlights. I need more gradients... Either way, enjoy and place your 2 cents below.
  11. I've used Krylon and duplicolor, so I will throw a vote in for either. I also bought GW chaos black (I know this is about white primer.) couldn't tell a difference other than it was black instead of white and costs a lot more. Recently I bought P3 spray white primer and guess what? Can't tell a difference from it and the Krylon and Duplicolor. So, there's my 4 cents...I also have primed in all sorts of weather and the key is to keep on shaking the can. I usually am shaking from 10-15 minutes before my first spray.
  12. Words never truly capture the feelings and emotions we feel. My heart goes out to his family.
  13. Hirst Arts has an article on making a fountain. Linky Scroll on down to the bottom.
  14. With the layering don't forget to thin your paints down too. My quality of painting is also tabletop, but I am on a mission to produce better also. It seems that repeated advice I come across will trolling the internet is thinning your paints, and quality brushes.
  15. So, looking at this model, what would you choose to do differently if you were to strip and repaint? He is good tabletop quality.
  16. Cue "Whole New World" song from Disney's Aladdin. Welcome aboard, and don't fear posting pics of your GW pieces either. Enjoy and ask questions to your heart's desire, you WILL get constructive criticism and positive feedback.
  17. I took it cold in the fall of 08. I do suggest that you grab one of the self-prep texts from your local bookstore. At the time, it seemed that the Princeton review was the most helpful. There's a math section and what I remember was a bunch of Algebra and Geometry. Language with the vocabulary stuff like cat is to fur as your mama is to... Then the writing portion, I had some kind of persuasive essay to write, I stuck with the basic format of Intro, 3 paragraphs to explain 3 different points, and closure and did all right. Can't remember my score on the writing, but I was in the lower 700's for the rest of the exam. This was the general exam too. Also, bring nothing in with you but your ID and car key...felt like I was visiting someone in prison, even with a camera mounted above each test taking station. Good luck!
  18. This is a "top down" view. Various side shots. My camera-fu is astounding and each shot has a different area of the base in focus, ergo, multiple pics.
  19. You see, I essentially like to paint. I don't play. So I paint a mini and then what? I used to have decent space when I was in High School living at home to just put them on the shelf and look at them. Now, they get boxed up and that's about it. I recently painted a Chapter Master, I did some layering that I was extremely happy with, so I just gave the model to a friend. All in all, I'm just wanting to unload, I would say table-top quality minis, to someone who would use them or at least appreciate them.
  20. That's funny, so no one really knows the color. Hmmm, grayish, maybe purple it is then. Thx Heisler.
  21. Ok, so after 8+ years of not using my Wood Shade Ink, and Dark Flesh Ink, I try to give them a shot this evening. Looking at the "tub of goo" I faintly remember adding stuff to them to try to get them to, I guess, flow better. (I think I added Future, some water, and I don't know what else...I didn't know what I was doing. BUT, it's ok for two reasons, now I get to buy new paints, washes, or inks to replace these and I get to take a look at the impressive skull agitators. Now, some non-skeletal containing paints get to have skulls. (I'm giddy that I get a freebie in every paint.) I also recently ordered my first MSP triad. When the box came in, I also had a "sample" of paint. It looks grayish, and even slightly like one of the purples in the triad I ordered. Could anyone tell me whether the sample is a random sample or does Reaper send out one specific color as a sample. I hate to have to ask, but sometimes my eyes can't differentiate between certain blues, grays, and greens. Thanks, Reaper, I love my freebies!
  22. Oooh, thanks Lars for the heads-up, and thanks you Ravenwood for your rust with pictures!
  23. I found this neat tip on creating rust compliments of tedwin183. In a response to an e-mail where I asked him if he minded me copying/pasting, and linking his comments he thought it would be funny if we called it "tedwin183 rusting technique." So here is the tedwin 183 rusting technique: I'll give you a tip from a fellow pro painter I trade tips with. He gave me this little technique and it's really blown the doors off the weathering effects I can accomplish. get yourself a dark brown, burnt-umber tone (Scorched Brown, if you're talking GW colors). paint this one VERY thin. Next, do yourself a favor and get a bottle of Reaper Master Series "Rust". It's the best color for rust I have seen. Here's the trick: Take some of the rust color, put it down on your pallet and wet the paint a little bit (not too much). Go get some baking soda. Mix enough baking soda in the paint so that the paint starts to get "gritty" looking. Don't use so much that the whole thing begins balling up. Paint this on around rivets, edges, or anything that you want rusted. When the paint dries, the baking soda in solution begins to recrystallize and forms this layer of crumbly-looking rust that is very durable to the touch. The effect is so realistic, I've had people ask me how I got my models to rust in certain spots. give it a try. And a link to the thread for the other good tips found within. Cheers.
  24. I've done quite a bit, I mean a lot, of watching you tube videos this past week to absorb more theory to my painting arsenal, as I get the courage to try some out; and to be honest I've watched a few How to Paint Space Marine videos from kids that sound like they are 12-14 years old that are less biased and more mature than this little fella that we are ranting about. I also find the thread that Ed started in BeeKeepers about this quite entertaining.
  25. Follow up: So I went to the Continental Desk at RIC. Richmond is not a massively busy airport b/c of our vicinity to Dulles, and Dulles is a little lower in airfare, but I live within 5 min of RIC so that's where I fly from. Ok. Gave my story to the lady at the desk. Someone who still had a soul She was cool with everything, the only thing she requested was documentation from the pediatrician that said, she shouldn't fly. Waiting on the e-mail response as I type. Much much happier today.
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