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Everything posted by Hells_Clown

  1. Hast thou special knowledge of future offerings from Reaper? Hhhhmmm? Huuuuuh? Hhhhhmmmmm?
  2. I've had problems with several Warlords minis including the Lupine Rager (he leaned to one side). The LR was on a plain base btw. The latest one I'm having trouble with has a textured base and it didn't sit correctly on the base. I think the problem is the slots are usually too big so the base has room to wiggle and the base itself is often uneven, wider on one side than the other, one side is taller than the other, etc. This last time I got tired of fooling with it so I cut off the tab and super glued the figure on (which is a feat in and of itself, I though SG was supposed to stick to EVERYTHING, not everything except metal minis! I've glued my fingers together, glued things to the table, all kinds of messes trying to get a mini on it's base or an arm on (don't get me started on pinning, I'm using a Dremel to make the hole now and still cannot get them to line up evenly. I don't think if I sold my soul I would be able to pin. I'm not cut out for all this modeling stuff :( ). But I digress... To sum up: Warlord figures are nifty neato, but they don't always fit nicely on their bases, and can be a royal pain to put together. :p
  3. What would you guys (and gals) suggest for a Death Knight mini? I'd like something mounted, but those are few and far between. I'd also like something that isn't covered in skulls or inverted crosses - too cliche. Oh, and it doesn't have to be a Reaper figure. :cool:
  4. I recently got some Future Floor Wax and made up some diluting solution. It seems to work rather well for thinning, but I though it was also supposed to keep the paint from drying so quickly. This doesn't seem to be the case. It seems to dry as quickly as it usualy does. The mix I've made is approx 4:1 water to wax and my paint/extender mix is usually about 1:1 or 2:1 paint/wax. I use a variety of paints, including Reaper, GW, Testors Acryl and Tamiya. It doesn't seem to make a difference if I'm using only one brand, mixing multiple colors of the same brand or mixing multiple brands, they all seem to dry the same. It did keep some Reaper ink useable for several hours though, and it does help the ink spread properly and not pool like it does w/o it.
  5. Ok, I've read a few posts and the one thing I'd say is, "you guys are going wwwwaaaaayyyyy overboard here!". The KISS principle is best here. Keep it simple, stupid. Start with a small stretch of land. They players need a town, city, hamlet, whatever to start from. Go from there. Who care how that river got there or why that tree grows sideways? Sheesh! It's D&D (I presume), not a factual history of the universe! Remember, Tolkein spend DECADES creating Middle Earth. If you are willing to build a world and not let anyone see it till you're 70-something, yippy-skippy for you. But you'll prolly wanna play sooner than that. You don't need everything spelled out all at once from the beginning. This is a hobby, which means it's supposed to be fun. Of course you can use my patented method of world creation: have an idea, tell the players you have said idea, they make characters, you make things up as you go along. Works (sorta-kinda) for me. Besides, your table will be teeming with nifty painted metal critters, who's gonna care about the Mountains of Doom anyway? :p
  6. When refitting bases, do you remove teh peg and glue the figure directly to the new base or do you use slot bases?
  7. Brush licking....haven't any of you heard of dipping the brush in water? :p
  8. Does anyone else have trouble fitting Warlord figures to their bases? I've had several now that don't seem to fit well. My most recent one, 14037: Templar Lightbringer, I totally removed the peg and super glued him directly to the base and he's still not even! I may have to get some of that putty and start filling in gaps by hand. It's rather disappointing when a company that gets such high praise as Reaper makes errors like this that bring down the quality of their product. Maybe the molds need to be checked, reworked, something?
  9. Where can a newbie (for instance myself) go to learn a lil sum-sum about painting nmm? I usually prefere to use actual metallics when I paint, but I'd at least like to know how to do nmm. Heck, there's lots of things I'd like to learn and I suppose there are simpler things than nmm to start with. Anyhoo, I'm rambling. Can ya give a poor slob of a newbie some help? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? ???
  10. I'm sure someone's already mentioned this, but it's Ezeckial 25:17. That happens to be one o my favs as well.
  11. Why not prime white and do a wash with blue ink? Then he would be really pale looking. :p Or you could try a standard flesh color mixed with a small amt of blue, that way it would look mostly like "normal" flesh but a little off. I just did something similiar with a medusa figure, though I added green.
  12. I can understand those sentiments. That's someting I don't like about WHFB, all the silly headresses and such. So far I've only bought a few Sidhe (elves) and they haven't been too bad. The pack of swordsmen I bought had these silly pointed helms, but a quick run in with some cutters and the helms are (mostly) round now. :p I too wanna look into Warmachine, it does look very cool.
  13. What are some brands of brush on primer (besides GW)? I think I'd like to give it a try.
  14. I-Kore has a couple of games out that are cool: VOID (Sci-Fi) and Celtos (Fantasy). Neither require large amounts of figures, as you can play from 500 point armies (small skirmish level forces) to has big as you like. The more points you have to spend, the more figures you'll need of course. Celtos is a very new game so all the armies are not complete. More figures are on the way. VOID has been around longer and has more figures available, even starter boxed sets. They also have more vehicles to use. The mechanics of the games are fairly simple, using an alternative activation system where you move a unit and have them do their thing, then your opponent respondes by moving a unit and doing their thing, etc. instead of you moving all your forces at once, firing, then your opponent moving. Best of all, you can download the rules for VOID and Celtos from the I-kore website www.i-kore.com for FREE. Their .pdf files straight from the book, illistrations and all. They're not super high quality, but more than adaquate for finding out if you like the rules and such and you can always buy a hardcopy later if you really want to. Oh, and the figures. They're quite nice. I've only had one problem with the few I've bought. Otherwise their is little flash, few mold lines, and nice detailed sculpts. Check em out, I think you'll like them.
  15. I'll add to the agreement pile here. I use the Wally World specials, Reaper Pro, Testors Acryl, Tamiya and even The Evil Empire's paints. I've even mixed them together and had good results. The specialty paints do flow better I must admit, with the best so far being the Testor's. The craft paints tend to be very thick, though when I water them down they seem to get too wattery, I may not have found the proper water to paint ratio yet. I understand your not wanting to pay the higher prices for those lil bitty bottles. I figured out not so long ago that the average price of these specialty paints is more per ounce than silver bulion. But any hobby is gonna cost ya eventually if you get into it far enough. Best thing to do is what's already been said, buy what you can afford and as you are able to afford them but the nice ones and see what works best. Also, minis can be repainted, Krylong primer and Pine-sol is cheap. Good painting.
  16. Um...you don't happen to have the url of that company by chance? I'm doing.....research. Yeah, that's it. Research. Need to see something like that. For PURELLY scientific reasons mind ye. :cool:
  17. Boots? You'd let her wear so much? With summer comming on? Geez yer a nice guy.... :p
  18. I don't get all the hub bub about putting clothes on her. Lots of companies sell nude model kits. I suppose Reaper is trying to be a nice, family friendly place. Then again, a company called "Reaper" who's logo is a skull and sells demons, orcs and other assorted nasties probably shouldn't try too hard to be nice to the kiddies. I still think the idea of two models, one nude, one PC would be nice. But whadda I know?
  19. I don't know the brand name (threw away the package). It doesn't have a swivel head on it so that I can press it with my palm and turn it easily. That may be my mistake. The hobby shop where I bought it has replacement bits, but for the moment I've put the vice aside and I just drop tons o glue when I want something to stick. I don't do conversions yet so that's not a big deal. Though I am thinking of putting all my minis on 25mm square based to give em a uniform look. That would mean lots o Dremmeling and maybe some drilling. We shall see. I found out somewhere else about cleaning the bit. That didn't seem to make a difference in how deep I could drill though. I also had a problem keeping the thing steady, it liked to wobble, thus making the hole larger than intended.
  20. Agreed. Each tribe could be a different color/tone. Or different tones for special characters. Powerful warriors are gray, shamans are yellow, etc... Unless someone can produce a real live photo of a real live orc, no one can tell you what you can and can't do with em.
  21. I did a quick n dirty set of skeletons from some company called Reaper recently. I primed em white and washed em in GW Flesh Ink (yes I'm evil, I occasionally use stuff from other companies :p). Presto, a quick n easy way to make old and nasty looking skeletons. I may go back n fix em up a bit someday.
  22. If I want to just dilute the entire bottle of ink, what's the best ratio for an overall usage? 1:1, 1 part ink to 3 parts water (this is what I found recommended for GW inks. I've yet to figure out how to use them really well so I hardly do)?
  23. I recently got a pin vice and it's as hard to use as I imagined. I'm not good with tools so I don't know why I thought it would be easy. I even broke of the bits that came with it the first day. None of the holes I drilled were deep enough (I'd get to a certain depth and it'd just stop), always seemed too wide, no matter which bit I used, and the holes didn't line up ever. So I ended up just drilling a couple shallow holes and using a ton of super glue. At least the arm on my Lupine Rager hasn't fallen off yet. Oh well.... PS does anyone know where I can get replacement bits? I don't know the diameter, the bits aren't marked in any way.
  24. On a similiar note, I just got a lupine rager (very cool mini!) but the durn thing wouldn't sit right in the base, one set of legs is always lopsided or sticking out of the slot. I added some "gravel" to the base and it sat alright but I may have to build up the scenery a bit so the stand isn't visable. Oh well, the rest of the minis I've gotten from Reaper have been quite nice, so one in (I've forgotten how many) isn't so bad.
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