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Hells_Clown

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Posts posted by Hells_Clown

  1. Demons can be any range of colors. I saw one painted bright Chartruese green once. It is a matter of personal preference really.

    I wasn't aware there is a color guide to demons! ::D: Is that what Buffy and Angel use when they don't know what they're up against?

     

    You are right though, no one can really say what color you can or cannot paint a demon, or a troll or a dragon or an elf...

  2. Ok, another faction question. Who/what are the Nefsokar? Those new grunts look nifty.

     

    Maybe someday I'll get up enough gumption to look up the rules. But then I'll want to play. And nobody around here has even heard of Warlord. So I'd be stuck.

     

    But I still wanna know who these guys are.

  3. I've got this guy and am painting him up. He looks good but I started painting him with the pole arm and hands seperate so I could reach all the spots that would otherwise be hidden.

     

    That's where the trouble starts. I cannot get both hands to fit at the same time. I've twisted and bent the pole axe more than once and it just does not fit. It's just a bit too short. I tried bending the right arm closer to the body but it won't budge.

     

    Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a way to fix it? I'm afraid I'm going to have to cut and pin it then cover it with green stuff. I really don't want to do that.

     

    HELP! :blink:

  4. Yes, you can add paint to the brush on primer. It does tend to thicken with you do that so you'll want to cut it with water. But I've done it more than once with various colors. I've also done the plain white primer then base coated with whatever color I wanted, ie paint the whole thing gray after the primer dries. Or you could just diluted black ink.

     

    They all work. Pick the one ya like best.

  5. For most of my flock jobs I've been using a Woodland Scenics glue that seems to be nothing more than watered down pva. It works fine except it's impossible to control, if you put a drop on a base it spreads all over the place.

     

    I recenlty tried super glue gel when adding some coarse turf and liked the way it worked. I think I may have to use sg more often.

  6. I just got a pack of these things and already I'm in love. For those who haven't seem 'em, they look kinda like pipe cleaners with sand paper stuff stuck to em. The pack I picked up has course, medium and fine grain. These things make it MUCH easier to get those mold lines, esp the ones in those hard to reach spots.

     

    I got mine at Hobby Lobby so they should be easy to find.

  7. I must say that batch one of the greens didn't do much for me.

     

    Group 2 is diametrically opposed to group 1.

     

    Much yummy goodness there.

     

    That angel ROCKS! I think I'll get two, one good, one bad. It's begging for a weapon swap, a big nasty sword as someone already mentioned. "...and I will strike down upon thee with great anger and furious vengeance..." oh yeah.

     

    Are they gonna be a part of some army or a seperate one unto themselves?

     

    That overlord dude, is he a good guy or bad?

     

    I really liked the goblin archers, nasty lookin' lil buggers.

     

    Oh and the ogre. Yeah, me likes him too.

     

    Now the burning question is: when will we see these nifty new goodies hanging on a peg board near us?

  8. Gritty finish can also be from your primer. What brand primer are you using.

    Yeah thought about the primer, I've seen gritty primer ruin a figure before the painting starts.

     

    I use brush on artist's gesso now because of that. Which is why I don't think that's the case. I usually thin it down slightly and if anything have to do a second coat cuz it's too thin.

     

    It's something I've thought about (buffing minis) but don't know if I want to put that much effort into it, esp over areas with lots of detail.

  9. Does anyone smooth out their minis before painting using sand paper or emery boards or the like? I've noticed on some of my figures that they turn out looking rough when I paint them and I think it's got to do with the surface being rough. It seems like a good idea but it also seems like it'd take forever to do.

     

    Is there a way to go about it that won't destroy detail and won't take forever?

  10. I wouldn't bother with Vallejo equivilents to make the mix since they have some blue/grays similar to the target color. Vallejo Model Color 943 Grey/Blue is close and I have added white to 898 Dark Sea Blue or 992Neutral Grey to 965 Prussian Blue with similar results. It's difficult to compare color charts with actual paints. Unless you want to reproduce Anne's Templar Blue exactly these comos will give similar results you can modify.

    Thanks for the tip. I have Dark Sea Blue and either Blue-Gray or Gray-Blue (not sure which). I may have to try it and see what happens.

  11. Hey HC,

     

    I call that color "Templar Blue" (go figure...) and the second release of the new paints will have that color in it. 'Till then, Templar Blue is a 40/40/20 mix of Breonne Navy, Ash Grey, and Dragon Blue (the latter being the 20%, the other two being forty). I custom-mix it every time, so a little variation is okay. I shadow with Blue-Black and highlight by mixing in Linen White, as always. :)

     

    Hope that helped!

     

    --Anne ::):

    Argh! Custom mixing! ::P:

     

    Though it being part of the new line up is cool, I may have to get a bottle.

     

    Now then, for those of us who are heathens (like me) and use other brands of paint like, oh say, Vallejo instead of the bestest brand Reaper, what might he equivalent colors be?

  12. As an aside I should mention I've read some reviews of the book and most say it's not entirely clear. It was originally written in Spanish I believe and they translator didn't do the best of jobs apparently. Therefore it might be difficult to understand in places.

     

    Still worth a look though. I have their book on B&W painting and although it's not all B&W it has great pics and some pretty good advice on shading and stuff.

  13. I have to say I read this and immediately Rubb'N'Buff paints came to mind. It's a leafing product that you apply with your finger and then buff to a shine with your finger. It comes in tubes and has a wax base to it.

    We wouldn't happen to be able to acquire this wonderful product at Michael's would we? ::P:

  14. Actaully I was thinkin one of the new colors could be Anne's Blood...

    I like that. They could name some of the paints after our most beloved painters: Anne's Blood Red, Glocka Green, Paintrix Purple...

     

    That'd be cool. ::D:

     

    Oh and this is number 400.

     

    600 more to go and I too will be immortal! MUWAHAHAHHAHAAAA!!!! :devil:

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