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Midwest's Achievements


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  1. Here are my personal experiences and opinions concerning RMS paints: Most of my painter friends love the RMS paints due to the triad system and how thin the paints are. Personally, I continue to have terrible luck with the bottles clogging up on me. I also have this issue with the limited range of Vallejo paints I use for my Flames of War figures, so maybe it's just user error with dropper bottles on my part! Having said that, RMS has a fantastic range of colors, although their dropping of colors on what seems like a routine basis is a bit off-puting. I'm not as experienced with their metals, but overall beyond the bottle issue I find them easy to work with. They are indeed thinner than P3 paints, but coverage seems just as good and I typically paint things in two thin coats anyways, regardless of which paint brand I'm using. Overall, they're a good complement to P3, as IMO the P3 line could use a little more variety in their greens and browns, as the P3 colors tend to be very similarly dark IMO. I'll also say: I'm a lazy painter who tends to prefer painting out of the bottle with P3 paints, so the main advantages of a dropper bottle really don't apply to me. In fact, at the moment I'm really digging the new bottles GW's released for their paint line (the ones with the clear, almost rubber-like fliptops), and if I could I'd probably re-bottle all my paints using them.
  2. Hate to push a competing product, but Vallejo actually sells bottles of metal medium. Would seem like the easiest solution would be to just mix that directly into some Snow Shadow.
  3. I tried both a couple weeks ago, and I believe they are repackaged Dupli-Color primers. If you're familiar with those, you'll know exactly how they cover/etc. If not, Dupli-Color is an automotive primer (I buy mine at an Autozone) that goes on very thin and smooth. I have some friends who don't like it for that reason - they prefer Krylon as it dries with a bit more "texture" to grab paint, but it works for me just fine (mind you I'm no great painter!) Living in KC, I've not had much problem with humidity affecting it during the summer. I've only tried one each of the black and white (samples for my local gaming store), so I can't say how good P3's quality control will be with these, but if they are just literally repackaged Dupli-colors, the quality and consistency should be pretty good IMO.
  4. I saw a passing reference elsewhere in one of the previous transferring paints threads. Was thinking it might be easy. :) Understandable, I guess. I do miss the old labels, though - very nice looking, easy to read for me (for some reason, even with less text, the new ones are a bit harder to read when scanning the shelves/my paint box). That's what it sounds like from yours and others comments. I hadn't thought of how thick VMC is relative to Reaper and the GW/P3 lines. Thanks to everyone for the info and suggestions, btw!
  5. A big help for me was finding a local gaming store that had in-store painting. A bunch of the regulars do their modeling and painting up at the store, using a table in the game room that's been designated for it. Several are really good painters, and not only have they been great with tips and advice, but a lot of times they'll lend you a color if you forgot yours or don't have it. From the sounds of it, it looks like there's a couple good stores in your area, which probably means there are good, friendly painters lurking in the area!
  6. (My apologies if this is a threadomancy, but I wanted to add something and figured this would be better than starting a whole new thread!) I love the P3/Coat d'Arms/old GW style flip-top pots, but my paints do a lot of traveling (I paint at home, at a local gaming store, and at friends) and I'm finding the Reaper drop bottles to be a lot more convenient. Using the Reaper caddy, I can securely store a hundred or so bottles in a single organizer, whereas the thicker flip-top bottles require a lot more real-estate when packing up. For example, I currently use a craft organizer to store my flip-tops. It's about the same dimensions as the Reaper caddy, only shorter, and it takes four of them to store the 120 or so bottles I have (full P3 and Coat D'arms ranges). If I transfer them all to Reaper, I'll almost be able to store both full sets in a single Reaper caddy. Even with a second caddy to hold my Reaper paints, that's still a lot more convenient than my current set-up. I've looked and looked, but I've yet to find anything for my flip-tops that matches the convenience of using Reaper Caddies and Reaper dropper bottles!
  7. Hello, I had a few random questions regarding paints, and I thought it might be better to post them together instead of spamming the forum with my first posts! 1. I am thinking of transferring my other paints (P3, Coat D'Arms, GW) to Reaper bottles. I've seen similar threads, but they all seem to focus on the actual transfer process (i.e. "use funnels"), whereas I'm more worried about these paints being too think and gumming up/clogging up in the bottles. Could someone point me towards the right additive to use (Flow Improver?) as well as good ratios for these brands? I'm especially concerned about the P3 metals, and may just leave them in their regular pots. 2. Are there any tips/tricks to transferring bottle labels over? Considering that I have the full P3 and Coat D'Arms ranges (about 60+ paints each!), it'd be nice to transfer over those labels as well! 3. I've heard that dropper bottles are best stored upside down (supposed to cut down on clogging or drying out). Is this true? I will probably be using the Reaper Paint caddy so that shouldn't be a problem to keep upside down when not in use. 4. Speaking of the caddy, can anyone recommend a tote bag, backpack, or similar for transporting 2-3 of the Reaper caddies? I do a lot of painting up at my local gaming store with friends, and I like having all my paints on hand. Right now I use a box, but I'm looking for something hands-free to use instead (they're needed for carrying minis!). 4. Out of curiosity, why did Reaper change the labels on their Master Series paints? Costs? I really liked the old ones, very slick and nice looking, and, not to offend, but the new ones look like something I could have done with my printer in half an hour. 5. Does anyone use the flat-top alternate caps that Reaper sells for their dropper bottles? I'm confused as to how/why they're used - as far as I can tell, the only way to use them is by removing the tip of the dropper bottle. The bottle's a bit too thin to really dip the brush in, and I'd think it'd pour out too fast without the tip...? Anyways, to balance out all these nitpicky questions, I should say that I have slowly become a fan of Reaper's Master Series paints. The triad system is nice, and the overall range of colors is awesome.
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