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Dreamingdemon

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  1. Remember that Cheech and Chong movie....nevermind. How about some harpy models? Some nice feathered, foul faced, bare breasted, sharp taloned harpy models? I can't seem to find any other than some cyborg ones. Neat, but uh-uh. Might do well as a warlord unit, but for which faction I'm not sure. Anyway, just a suggestion.
  2. I've gotten my pikestuff off eBay Super Jag. Usually a good selection on there at reasonable prices. Any store that deals in trains can get them most likely. Hope that helps.
  3. Check out some of the Pikestuff warehouses too. I've gotten a couple of them and they work well. Rix also has a quonset for N scale which I think would work nicely. Even people of the future will need crappy warehouses for stuff. http://www.rixproducts.com/pikestuff_listing.htm
  4. Well it has been resolved. The moderator asked the list member to remove the signature. Not because it had no place, but because it would prevent a flame war. It appears I was the exception, so I told them I would leave instead. Solves my technical and topical problem. :) This forum has been informative and lacking racial/political blurbs, so I count myself lucky to have this source of CAV info. DD
  5. I'm not irked about the racial implications here. That isn't what irritates me. It just isn't the place to be expressing such views. I'm white, but that doesn't matter. I don't sign up to CAV mailing lists to see someone complaining how whitey, blackey, browny,etc. is holding them down. Just a signature is not a defense either. You willing broadcast that message everywhere you go. Its as bad as spam or a pop up in my opinion. DD
  6. Anyone else having trouble with the new CAV mailing list? I got the welcome message and am able to check my account on the web page, but posting is a problem. Also am I way off base, but should this type of thing be welcome on a mailing list about CAV: Stephen "FPilot" Bierce/IPMS #35922 "In this country, when a minority person does something great that person is said to be blessed with holy courage and moral superiority; when a white male does something great it's because he's a scum- sucking, scum-grubbing, scum-fortified bag of scum. I'm a white male. Is it any surprise I have problems motivating myself to do anything, let alone anything great?"--Tepid 3:18 Just curious, cause if I'm alone in my view that this has no place on a CAV list, then I'll just unsubscibe. DD
  7. Very nice. Thanks for posting those. I like the huge buildings. Make my old Epic Space Marine buildings seem woefully inadequate.
  8. Wow this got weird and froggy all of a sudden, but I'm serious. I've been playing 3rd edition steady since they released it and mounted player character figs would be very useful for the map combat. As of now players ,in the absence of an actual mounted model, have to use cardboard horse chits or put themselves beside a horse on the map. I'm aware that this will require the sculpting of at least an alternate lower half of a PC type of model, but you could use identical horse models in order to save on production costs for the first market trial run. If it was a hit then the horses could be altered to fit the persona of each model. Even these alteration could be laid over an existing horse standard. An optional mounted fig would be welcome in Warlord also to increase table speed of a model. The mounted version could also be placed on various other steeds ie dragons, manticors, griffons, etc. I believe the horse is being overlooked in the present market of fantasy figures. The horse is at the least the automobile of the fantasy genre and at most a companion, fellow fighter, and maybe even advisor in the case of a really dumb Paladin. DD
  9. I was wondering if the good people at Reaper had ever considered player character type figs with a standing and riding pose? Ral Partha did something similar to this with its 25s, but I believe it would go over much better with the bigger and better sculpted Reaper figs. Would be so cool to have in an RPG especially figure friendly 3rd D&D. Please consider and if this has been suggested before reconsider. :D DD
  10. I did re-read it and I think the hull down rule is either too vague or irrelevant. It doesn't make sense that a "heavy armored wall" would provide a better armor bonus for the same amount of model covered, but it is implied that it can be shot through. While an earthen hillside covering the same amount of model provides less armor bonus and cannot be shot through. The only way I can reconcile hull down vs. hard cover is if they wanted hard cover +2 armor modifier to be rare in the game for the sake of mechanics. Hull down would make sense in a metagaming way then. I don't want this thread to turn into a "thing", so I'll just say to each his own. Perhaps a concealment/obscurement mod for woods that would apply during target lock phase would have been better. Then a +1 or +2 mod for amor could have covered anything hard (earthworks, walls, bunkers, rock, etc). I guess I should have suggested that on the email list back when the game was forming. Oh well, hind sight is always 20/20. DD
  11. Chrome I believe the erratta on pg 134 of the JoR is what caused the question of the need of "hull down" in the game. The erratta gives an example of a CAV behind a wall covered 25% and goes on to state that the player can take either the +2 to armor for heavy cover or +1 for hull down. When I presented this option to my opponent he looked at me like I just offered him a dollar or two dollars. His choice. :laugh: After a bit of discussion we decided that hull down situations would always be hard cover. Once again thanks for the clarifications. We were playing defensive fire wrong, but doing everything else pretty much right. DD
  12. Played another game today. More questions popped up and once again I turn to the wisdom of the forum. 1. Is defensive fire performed with one direct fire weapon or with all the model has power for? 2. We come to the conclusion that hull down is unnecessary in that everything on the battlefield seems to fall easily into hard and soft. Any thoughts? 3. After you become suppressed, every die roll is at -2 until the end of your next action phase? The erratta seems to say as much, but I just want to make sure there are no exceptions anyone knows of. 4. Do you roll one die and resolve all attacks for a model based on that die? I think that has it for now. I apologize for any "old" questions being restated here, but be patient with me and I promise to do so with those who ask me "old" questions. Thanks in advance. DD
  13. Thanks for the replies and advice. We had a good game and we both agreed we'd like to play again.
  14. Gonna try CAV out with a buddy tomorrow night and was wondering if I could tap the wisdom of the message board to answer a few questions? 1. Is hulldown > or = to 25% or 50% concealment? 2. Any idea on how building destruction should be handled? I have several sets of skyscrappers from an old game that work well with this scale. Was thinking city fight to take a central building. Someone is bound to shoot a building. Love the city fight. 3. Anyone run the game without the return fire option? Just intuitively seems clumsy and weird. Of course I haven't tried it yet, but just in case my feeling on it pans out. 4. Is there any formation requirement for sections? 5. Hex or free measure? Opinions on which works better? I have both, but terrain is easier on free measure although something fast (like a puma) might be a pain to track movement points twisting through a city without hexes. 6. Do the weapons officer and pilot buying options make this game tremendously more interesting? A lot of the modifiers for armor and and weapons seem identical or within a point of each other. D10 is a big dice game wise and I'm afraid of a "look I rolled higher than your die so I win" situation. 7. Any good quick reference sheets out there? Other aids like blast marker templates? That's all I can think of at the moment, but feel free to volunteer any info to the new player. I really want this to go over because I don't like the click mechanics and I won't buy a model so expensive that it makes me think of what I should have spent the money on. Thanks in advance.
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