Ferox

Great work on the face!

Now would probably be a good time -- you might find that the darker purple covers better. Instead of adding black, you could also add a dark brown for a richer greyish-purple.

I like your idea of purple wash for shading the green. If you feel like it, you could work through the blue side of the spectrum: green -> green/blue -> blue -> blue/purple -> purple, maybe even into a very dark red for the depths of the shadows. What do you have planned for the trim on the robe?

My Striders showed up today -- turns out there's six of 'em.

Not only did I get the carapace basecoated and highlighted, but I managed to get my camera to stop second-guessing me. The white balance needs a bit of work, but I'm finally getting raw images from the damn thing that don't need to be fiddle-f#!ked in Gimp besides a crop and some scaling. Speaking of scales... The carapace is basecoated in a mix of intense brown and khaki shadow. (I've since acquired a bottle of Uniform Brown, which I'll use as a basecoat in future.) As before I've streaked the plates with the khaki triad and linen white. It's a technique that works pretty well for adding texture to smooth bits of carapace, but the Carnivean has a lot of detail on its scales which made things awkward. Still, I think it's working out okay. Next step is to shade the carapace; after that, I'll do the claws and teeth, and reevaluate the overall colour balance.

Just to be clear: I'd only work linen white into the highlights to complement (and balance) some blue or purple in the shadows.

The dragon's pretty orange... maybe you could shade the trousers with purple?

Cue Duck Dodgers skirmish rules in 3... 2... 1....

Purple in the shadows and a touch of something yellow -- maybe linen white -- in the highlights would look pretty sweet, I think. Going with just purple would risk dragging the white towards lavender. As it stands the white comes off a bit chilly with all the cool tones on the mini, and IMHO the lower two folds of the dress are shaded a bit too heavily.

Since I actually found someone local who plays WarmaHordes, it's time for me to get more serious about painting up my Legion. So far, I've painted: - pLylyth -- spell tokens - 2x Shredders I've started: - Carnivean I have yet to assemble: - 2x Shredders - Shepherd - 3x Warmongers And I'd like to acquire: - 5x Striders - animus tokens for Shredders (4x Tenacity) and Carnivean (Spiny Growth) Let's see if I can get that all done by the end of the month.

Use a nickel! They're a perfect size for D&D battle grids, and cost less than anything else you're likely to find. For painting details, you might find it useful to give the whole mini a very thin wash with a dark brown, green, or blue before you start painting the base coats. (By "very thin" I mean 3:1 water:paint; add some flow improver if you can find it.) The idea is to let the wash pool in the recesses of the model and the edges between details, giving you a better idea of what's there before you start painting. I'm a big fan of working with thinned paint in general. If I have a little bit of thin paint on my brush, any mistakes I make are likely to be too small to notice. It takes a bit longer to build up highlights and shadows this way, but I think it gives me more control. Here are a couple tutorials if you feel like giving it a try: How to blend by olliekickflip Blending through transparency - using 'juices' Good luck!

Great job on the checkers!

Woot! TaleSpinner's Cinder WIP thread got me hooked on the Reaper forums, and now I get to read another enormous-dragon WIP thread. It's like Christmas all over again! Nitpick: In the second photo (first image), the dragon's tail is "pointing" at a section of the two cork tiles that hasn't been blended together. There's a bit of an overhang that looks a bit out of place compared to the rest of the base. Phrases like "not a single pin was needed" make me shiver, but then again I'm the kind of person who pins the joints on my GW plastics. I can't wait to see what you do with the colours. Black gives me fits.

As an alternative, I mixed swamp green and tanned shadow for my zombies, and came up with something a bit different that's still recognizably "fleshy".

So on Thursday morning this thread popped up on the Privateer forums, and I just had to follow suit. A quick bits-box raid came up with a half-decent selection of goodies from GW boxes, and the rest is history: These represent (left to right) pLylyth's Bad Blood and Parasite spells, as well as her bow's Blood Lure ability. I imagine I'll be building more of these....

Spell tokens are done. Since it's vastly unlikely that I'm gonna finish anything tomorrow, here's the tally for February: - Thomas Hammerfist - Tentacle pit - Shredders (x2) - Jolie, female scribe - Spell tokens - Ph.D. committee assembled and defence scheduled Not too shabby.

Amiri looks great, but I love the skin tones on Yrsa. Great job!

The problem I'm having with it is that the shadows are too abrupt: they look more like darklining than actual shading. Skin doesn't usually have really sharp transitions like that. The face is great -- I wouldn't touch it. The midriff's not bad either. For the chest and cleavage, I'd suggest expanding the shadows a bit: take a bit of wash onto your brush, wipe most of it off onto a damp paper towel, and carefully paint the rest from the highlights into the shadows. You should end up with a smooth gradient. I haven't worked much with inks, but it looks like the splotches on her collarbone are little bits of excess wash that never made their way into recesses and dried out in the open. That's why I suggest working with very little wash: the less you have on your brush, the easier it is to control. Olliekickflip has a much longer (and better) explanation of the process I'm trying to describe here. Good luck!

Workbench update: Devout warjack (started) Carnivean (started) Spell tokens for pLylyth 03462 Goblin Warriors (4) Gargoyle Norgol, Irongrave Knight Dwarven Warrior (primed) Young Swamp Dragon (primed) Centurus Clones (2) (started/primed) This thread on the Privateer forums presents an idea too awesome not to implement. Besides, I never base anything on pennies these days.

Funny, I've got that guy in my to-do box. Nice work! The axe blade came out quite well, and the mix of warm colours you picked for the plate and leather stands out against the chain.

Flesh is done, for now: I took some of the shading back up towards the midtone with a few washes, then highlighted up with a mix of snow shadow and rosy highlight, then added some linen white to that and went up again. Also, with a reflector panel and a change of direction on my fill light, my lightbox is starting to generate some decent images: barely a touch of postprocessing involved in these. Looking at my previous attempts at carapace, I'm not impressed with how saturated the brown basecoat is even after streaking it, especially in contrast to the still fairly saturated blues of the skin. I think I'll start with a less saturated tone -- drop some ochre into my intense brown and see what happens.

Nice work -- your OSL is impressive. Try uploading your photos as attachments to the post rather than hosting them elsewhere. I don't know of many other forums that provide this kind of space for images, but it sure is convenient here.

More progress: This is after three more washes. I started with twilight blue, added some imperial purple to that, and finally added a bit of brown liner to that. I'm pretty happy with it so far, but I need to establish the highlights before I can really figure out how it looks. I think what I'll do is add the highlights to the flesh, correct any obvious problems, then do the carapace, claws, and teeth at about the same level of detail. After that I'll either go back and re-balance the colours or give up and call it done.

Just for the heck of it, here's a group shot of all three: It's pretty obvious which one got painted last.

I'll say. "Why hello there... lunch!" I really like the highlights, but I'm concerned that the shadows don't stand up to them. What would you think about washing some purple into the deeper recesses of the model? A cooler tone like that for the shadows would really make the red/gold pop, I think.