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Posts posted by Ferox

  1. Thread necro! Rise, my thread; rise!


    Finally, some more paint on Jolie. Heck, it hasn't even been a year yet!


    post-5715-12979292059234.jpg post-5715-12979292117406.jpg


    I reworked the shadows and highlights on her robes and started in on the trim. That's going to take at least another basecoat (phoenix red, if you're interested) before I can start to highlight it.

  2. Primer takes down the shininess of the pewter and smooths over the contrast with the green stuff, so this gives a better idea of what the damn thing's going to look like:




    I'm pleased with how stable the model is on its three little paperclip foot-pins. I have plenty of range of motion without even having glued the pins to the dowel.




    Brushing primer onto the model really brings home the scope of the paint job compared to the other minis I've painted. More room for blending, I suppose. ::):


    Sealer tomorrow morning, then I start basecoating.

  3. Oh yeah, I'm having a ton of fun with this guy. Even the bits I complain about are kinda fun -- except maybe the "ow, my fingers" parts. Sure, not many of the joints fit exactly the way the sculpt was constructed, but they're all structurally pretty decent and I've learned a lot about green-stuffing whilst assembling this guy. I don't know that I'd suggest it for a novice modeler -- at least not without some good epoxy and a bunch of patience -- but I'm having a blast.


    Anyway, assembly is done unless the putty flakes out on me:


    post-5715-12978451033073.jpg post-5715-12978451210804.jpg


    post-5715-12978451119649.jpg post-5715-12978451268048.jpg


    I'm messing around with a new lighting setup that seems to do pretty well on its own but has hopelessly confused Gimp's auto white-balance function. No chroma changes on these guys, and they're pretty true to life. Woot!


    Anyway, the neck joint was the least stable of the ones I glued and puttied today. With the pin for strength and the putty for some sort of rigidity it ought to hold up pretty well. The shoulders didn't fit as well as I'd remembered -- a bit of filing fixed that, sort of -- but came together pretty well regardless. A lot of that is down to slight misalignments between the pin holes on the torso and the pin holes on the arms. Smaller-diameter pins might've actually been a better choice, but the arms are heavy and I don't like the idea of putting that load into a paperclip.


    On the other hand, the paperclip pins on the feet are amazingly stable, so who knows. Maybe a pair of well-placed paperclip pins beats out a sloppy joint with a big ol' 1/16" brass rod in it. I'm disinclined to embark upon a destructive testing regime to evaluate this proposition.


    I really want to put a good paint job on this guy, so once the putty's cured tomorrow evening I'm going to give 'im a quick rinse in soapy water, then lay on some primer.

  4. I like that flash photo -- it sets off the skin from the background and really does a lot to emphasize the face. The lighting on the face is excellent, by the way -- appropriately creepy the way the lower half of the face drops off into shadow, with just the mouth peeking through. Maybe a bit more oompf on the lower lip and some red eyebrows would help pick out the face as a focal point.


    I think one thing that draws my attention to the not-NMM highlights on the boots and scabbard is the variation in hue: they go from red to orange to yellow to white, while the skin (say) goes through shades of muted purple, the wings go through shades of more vibrant purple, the hair goes through shades of brownish red, and so on. I've been trying to teach myself better colour theory so maybe I'm fixating on this sort of thing, but I think you'd get more pop out of the skin if you shaded to brown and highlighted to pink, or something like that -- introducing some variation in hue rather than using darker and lighter shades of the same colour. (Or it could be simpler: maybe the accents on the leather stand out because they're brighter than the stuff around them. I've been known to overthink problems by four or five orders of magnitude.)


    Also, the more I think about it, the more I really like the idea of Sophie as Krampus.

  5. Yeah, I'll second that: the bear's fur looks a bit monotonous, especially compared to the contrasts you achieved on the rider. More shading would help, but if you could apply some markings or maybe a lightened underbelly to the fur I think it'd really pop.


    Also, that axe is outstanding. Great job!

  6. Proof of concept:




    The arms and head are just hanging by their pins, which explains the crazy (but oddly expressive) angle of the head. I'm not sanguine about drilling into end-grain, but it's easier to get away with it on oak than, say, pine. Overall I'm pleased that the model's relatively stable even with the extra forward weight of the arms, and it's not too awkwardly weighted to hold by the dowel and paint.

  7. And... progress! Not just that, but no blood this time. I think the Carnivean wanted a blood sacrifice, and once it got it it decided to cooperate. I've built computers like that.




    Here's how things stand at the moment. The body is happy to stand up by itself on my workbench, but needs a bit of help in the "lightbox" -- hence the garish blue poster tack. As you can see I've done a lot of putty work on the join between the upper and lower torsos; let me just say that my #2 taper point (firm) colour shaper has earned my undying admiration. What a fantastic piece of equipment for working with soft putty.


    That said, I hope the not-quite-blisters on my fingertips turn into calluses before I next pin something. Ow!




    Here you can see the size of pins I'm using wherever I fear large bending moments, and some idea of the depths I've been drilling with my pin vise. More putty work on the right side of the quadrahip; I might go back and do something with the back right leg while I've got the putty out.


    I'm starting to think that I'll actually be able to finish this tomorrow. Then I wait a day for the putty to cure, wash it again (all those skin oils from my fingertips -- what, me, compulsive?), and prime it... and then I start painting!

  8. Tip: Drill a hole in one piece then attach a small amount of Blue Tack to the other piece. Then fit the pieces together and gently pull them apart. The Blue Tack piece will show you exactly where to drill the hole to have a perfect fit of the pieces.

    Yep, that's a pretty handy way to do it as long as the blu-tack doesn't deform in the last step.

    I've tried this three damn times, and I keep screwing it up... er, ah, performing inadvertent conversions. Something about the extra volume of the blu-tack distorts the joint angles just enough to mess me up. Fortunately, I haven't done any damage I can't fix with a bit of green-stuff, and in the case of the torso joint it actually makes the model's pose a bit more dynamic.


    Speaking of protips: I've been using wax from a tea light candle to lubricate my pinning bits, which is a definite must (cutting oil would be better, I'm sure), and I've been drilling pilot holes for the 1/16" pins with a smaller bit. (In fact, it's too small -- I should be running a second bit between the pilot hole and the 1/16" bit, if I only had something suitable.) Also handy is that I have two pin vises and don't have to switch bits.


    In any case, I should be able to finish the pinning today.


    Update: Pin-holes are all drilled! Now the resting of the fingers and the drinking of the beer, followed by the gluing of the pins and the green-stuffing and the assembly of parts and the letting everything cure before the final combination of the subassemblies.

  9. It doesn't suck at all -- though there's relatively little "Sophie" in the photo, the black background overwhelms the dark wings and skin, and clicking through to the contest thread adds just a smidgen more effort to getting other pics.


    I like it, though I wish you'd taken pics against a lighter background. The warm palette works well and contrasts nicely with the chilly roof, and the sprig of mistletoe on the sword is a stroke of genius. That said, the wings look a bit flat -- going further into blue for the shadows would deepen them for more contrast and richness, and you're already halfway there with the purples. Also, I find that the gold NMM on the scabbard and greaves draws my attention too much; that's not where I'm accustomed to find myself staring at a Sophie model. :poke: Something to draw attention to the face would be nice, although that could be a colour balance issue with the camera overreacting to the black background. The OSL on the rooftop is a nice touch, too -- not overdone, but a nifty little detail that rewards you for looking closely.

  10. Progress! I drilled all the pin holes in the lower torso and attached the legs and tail.




    Yes, that's my blood. (Don't ask. Note however that Carniveans have the "Blood Creation" trait....) The tail went on beautifully, and is held with a half-inch paperclip pin. The three load-bearing legs all have holes drilled for paperclips, probably closer to 3/8" depth. I'm hoping that'll be sufficient to support them during painting.




    The two right-side legs are held with half-inch pins of 1/16" brass rod. The left-front leg is held with paperclip wire, since it's not going to bear any more load than just itself. I have a 1/16" hole and a paperclip-sized hole for pinning the upper torso to the lower; the lighter-gauge paperclip wire should give me more flexibility if I get the angles wrong. I scored a crosshatch pattern across all the jointed surfaces, but I don't know how much of that is actually going to help as the leg joints in particular are pretty open. Well, every little bit helps.




    I messed up the front-right leg's pinhole in the torso: the pin in the leg is angled downward to give it more material to bite into, and the locating socket on the lower torso really wasn't cool with that. I should've opened it up a lot more to accommodate the angle I wanted to use; instead, I drilled a guide hole (which went fine), then drilled a 1/16" hole (which went straight in) and tried to clean it up with a file. My test fit worked reasonably well; my final fit, obviously, not so much. I guess the pin should do the lion's work of keeping the leg in place, and I can just fill in the gap with green-stuff, but still... I hate screwing up. ::):


    Next I'll drill the upper torso, attach it to the lower, and add the arms and head. Then I get to find out whether my paperclip idea actually works, or if I'll have to base this thing before I paint it.

  11. Tip: Drill a hole in one piece then attach a small amount of Blue Tack to the other piece. Then fit the pieces together and gently pull them apart. The Blue Tack piece will show you exactly where to drill the hole to have a perfect fit of the pieces.

    Yep, that's a pretty handy way to do it as long as the blu-tack doesn't deform in the last step. The Carnivean has locator studs and divots on its joints, though -- laughably inadequate for actually supporting the load on each joint, but perfectly suited for locating pins. The tutorial I linked in the first post shows how it's done.


    I'll probably use blu-tack on the waist joint if I double-pin it, though: my problem is less with locating the holes than it is with angling them properly. A goodly chunk of blu-tack squeezed into a large-diameter pinhole should indicate angle pretty well. Thanks for the reminder!

  12. Carnis can be a bit of a challenge to put together. Ferox is definiely doing the right thing by pinning.

    Trust me, I'd weld this thing if I had the skills. ::): When something breaks off of one of my minis, I take it as a personal offence... and pin with thicker wire next time.


    Based on your Shredders, it should look pretty cool if you keep the same color scheme, or even a variation like a slightly darker blue on the skin. (on that, there's a bit more smooth skin than you might expect at this stage. Layering and blending will go a long way towards awesomeness.)

    Thanks! I tried a few colour tricks on the shredders that I expect will have more of an impact on the carni. Either way, painting all that carapace is going to be another learning experience.


    Should have pins drilled and some of the major joints in place this evening.


    Update: Okay, I underestimated the task. Lots of pinning to be done, and me without power tools. The great thing about the Carni is that there's so much there there; I can sink quarter-inch-deep holes into the legs and not worry about coming out the other side. On the other hand, well, this is going to take at least five 1/16" pins and ten paperclip pins. I sure would like to drill all the pin holes before I start to glue anything.


    Still and all, half-inch-long 1/16" brass rod pins at the major load-bearing joints makes me feel a lot better.

  13. Looks like a great start! The metallics look a bit flat to me; you might wash them with brown liner to get some interesting variations in lightness and shininess. (Normally I'd use brown for the brass and blue for the steel, but goblins do well with the dingy look brown gives silver-coloured metals.) I like the contrasts you've achieved between different materials, and the brown-and-green colour scheme is solid and effective. Good job!

  14. I like what you have to start!


    For the pants, you might consider different tones for the shadows and the highlights. Shading the pants with purple and then blue, and highlighting them with pink (I like rosy highlight for this purpose) and then white, could give them a sort of pearlescent richness that flat whites don't achieve. Also, I find it hard to highlight up to pure white without getting chalky streaks; you might mitigate this by glazing the highlights with very thin linen white or rosy highlight.


    I'll be following this with interest.

  15. Time to tackle the big guy. This model is why I bought the Legion boxed set in the first place, and I'm glad I did. On the other hand, it's going to be a challenge. Here's what comes out of the box:




    (No, the shoulder spines aren't interchangeable. The sprues are helpfully labeled "left" and "right".)


    As is my wont, I'll be pinning everything. The Carnivean is a huge chunk of white metal, most of it up high, so it'll need the support. Fortunately, Dan Smith has written an excellent walkthrough of the build process. I'll be using 1/16" brass rod for most of the pins, which is likely to be overkill -- that is, almost enough. :poke:


    I am a bit concerned about how I'm going to hold the guy while painting him. Right now my plan is to insert long-ish paperclip-wire pins into the three "standing" legs, then drill corresponding holes in one of the oak dowel pieces I use as a painting support and superglue them to the oak. When I finish, I'll cut off the pins near the dowel, insert them into the base, and bend them under for extra mechanical support.


    Anyway, so far today I've cleaned up the castings and set them in warm soapy water to soak before I glue them. So far, I'm impressed by Privateer's castings: they're almost entirely free of mould lines (though I did find one doozy of a slip line on the left claw; filing it down took off some of the fine detail... dammit) or flash. The surface is a bit rough, but I can fix that with sealer after I assemble and prime the model.



  16. Good stuff. I'm impressed by Damien's skin: it's not easy to pull off flat black flesh like that. I dig the OSL, too.


    The flaming sphere reads more like a ball of boiling acid to me: I'd expect fire to be brighter near the centre of the flame, rather than the edges. Still, it's an awfully nifty spell effect.

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