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Posts posted by Ferox

  1. The bottle of GW cyanoacrylate I've been using has a screw-on cap that has kept the tip from clogging, even when I absent-mindedly tried to screw an RMS cap onto it.


    LK, for that broken sword I'd suggest clipping off the whole thing, carving a new one from a piece of sheet styrene ("plasticard" at any model train shops you have nearby), and pinning that to the hand. Unfortunately pewter and its alloys tend to suck for bending strength. In future, try heating the mini up in a pot of hot water before bending it back into shape -- the heat will make the metal more likely to bend and less likely to snap.

  2. I think the mini would benefit from some deep shadows for contrast with the bright yellow and skintones

    What color of the wash would you recommend? I am using Citadel washes, for the skin it's Devlan Mud and for yellow it's Gryphonne Sepia. Do I still used these two or just black? so I will actually be thinning down the wash, then apply them to the under sides?

    Either one should work okay. I'm not familiar with Citadel washes, but what you can do is start with the lighter of the two, then add a bit of the darker wash in the deepest shadows. Imagine a light overhead (or shine a flashlight directly down onto your mini) to get an idea of which bits are in shadow, and layer some darker washes in there. Using black will tend to make the colours look dead -- I don't think it would work on this mini.


    When you're thinning the washes, you're balancing two things: a thinner wash will need more coats to get the same effect, but mistakes will be less obvious and the overall effect will probably be smoother. olliekickflip on this forum has a great tutorial on this kind of blending; what I'm suggesting (and what I use on my own miniatures as I build up my skills) is a quick-and-dirty version of that method.


    I think a few touches of purple (yellow's complement colour) would add a lot to the overall effect.

    That is a great tip!! in my mind I was always thinking that yellow is one of the prime color and there's no component to it, now I know purple is one... do I use wash (I got Leviathan Purple) or mix yellow with purple?

    There are better people than me to talk about colour theory, but this link is a good place to start.


    I don't think mixing yellow and purple paints would work -- I'd expect it to get muddy. (But once you get some confidence creating smooth blends with thinned paints and washes, definitely try shading yellow with purple -- I did it on this model and it really impressed me.) You could try shading the orb with purple wash; I think that would work well. What I meant was that you could paint some little details in pure purple to add contrast to the miniature, like the accent colours here.


    Another option would be taking the red details -- the hair and the fuzzy dice -- closer to purple, maybe shading them with Leviathan Purple wash.


    sorry for asking so many questions... we don't get a lot of mini painters here in Hong Kong

    No problem, that's what the forum's for. ::):

  3. Looks good to me: nice clean basecoats and good colour selection.


    I think the mini would benefit from some deep shadows for contrast with the bright yellow and skintones. Take a brushful of your wash, dab most of it off onto a damp paper towel, and paint the rest onto the downward-facing surfaces on her coat and gloves, and the underside of her hat. I like to do this with a really thin mix on my brush: it takes more coats to get a strong effect, but little mistakes are unnoticeable.


    Besides that, I think a few touches of purple (yellow's complement colour) would add a lot to the overall effect. There's a lot of yellow, so you don't need much purple. Maybe the garters of her stockings and her hatband -- Dick Tracy style. You could also use a purple wash to shade her crystal ball for a subtle effect.


    Overall, you're doing a great job... and I really like those fuzzy dice!

  4. Recently I picked up a #2 extra-firm flat chisel clay shaper made by Royal Sovereign Ltd. It is amazing for packing green-stuff into gaps, joints, and other fissures in multi-part figures. I honestly don't know how I got along without it, and I'm glad I acquired it before trying to assemble my Carnivean.

  5. Thanks, folks! The back of the cloak is my first real piece of freehand, and I'm really pleased with how it came out. I'm building an army-wide paint scheme around desaturated blues and brown-plus-bone, so those (plus basing) are the elements that I hope will tie all my Legion minis together.

  6. Thanks, folks!


    The more I stare at these guys, the more I like the grey one better. The blue guy's just a bit too saturated for my tastes, given that I expect to paint up an "army" (at least, as close as Hordes gets to "army" size) of minis in this colour scheme. I think the cloudy grey base is insufficiently cool, though, so I'll try to find a desaturated blue in the same vein as snow shadow, only darker. That should make the brown liner shadows pop a bit more, and give a better contrast against the pink fleshy tones.


    Would hate to see a swarm of these bad boys staring down my Templars.

    Your Templars are in luck -- these guys've convinced me never to paint another Hormagaunt. I'm gonna use the rest of the box as conversion bits. I don't know how Tyranid players manage it.

  7. I use CA, often some epoxy putty to fill gaps in the joint, and pin almost everything. Pinning is probably overkill for most joints, but there's nothing wrong with overkill. ::): Lately I've started scoring a cross-hatched pattern into the contact surfaces on both sides, especially for joints I can't pin: it's an easy way to increase contact area.

  8. Finally, done.


    post-5715-12961048433965.jpg post-5715-1296104857415.jpg post-5715-1296104874422.jpg


    post-5715-12961048694609.jpg post-5715-12961048922279.jpg


    The base is a bit special: I want to play both WarmaHordes and D&D with this figure, and the 30mm Privateer Press base doesn't do too well on D&D 4E's inch-square battle grid, so I mounted the figure on a nickel and painted the base separately. They're connected with blu-tak, and the facing markings on the base make any shifting of the figure irrelevant.


    WIP here.


    C&C appreciated.

    • Like 3
  9. She looks nice, though I think the face is a little too made-up for someone who is sleeping.

    Agreed, and the stems of the roses blend into the bottom sheet a little too much. But then I look at the sheer effect of the top sheet, and realize that I don't care. ::): Outstanding job.

    • Like 1
  10. Workbench update:


    Devout warjack

    Tentacle pit

    03077 Goblins II (4)

    03462 Goblin Warriors (4)

    Thomas Hammerfist


    Norgol, Irongrave Knight

    Dwarven Warrior

    Young Swamp Dragon

    Jolie, Scribe

    prime Lylyth

    Centurus Clones (2)

    Hormagaunts (2)


    Sure feels good to have those 'gaunts finished. (Edit: pLylyth turned out pretty well, too.) The Devout 'jack is about half assembled as well.

  11. I had grand plans for testing out a new approach to speed-painting on these guys. Turns out, not so much. They ended up as test models for my Legion of Everblight colour scheme, and in the end I'm pretty okay with how the damn things turned out.




    The guy on the left is based with a darker colour that requires more highlights to get to the approximate value I want; the guy on the right is based with straight cloudy grey. I'm stumped as to which I like better. The darker 'gaunt has more contrast, which I prefer, but also more saturation, which I don't.


    (I noticed the black streak across the one 'gaunt's claw after taking photos. I've fixed it, but don't really feel like reshooting the pics.)




    The darker 'gaunt was based with nightshade purple; the lighter 'gaunt with blackened brown. Both bases then got heavy drybrushings of terran khaki and ghost white. I'm trying for a cool colour scheme that doesn't merge with the skin tone and looks cold but not necessarily icy. Neither one really speaks to me, but I think the purple might do well with some khaki shadow -- that's pretty close to ochre.




    By the time I got to the fleshy bits, I was fed up with painting Hormagaunts and just wanted to get the damn things off my workbench. In general I like the combination of desaturated blue and the rosy skin triad, but this time I half-assed it, and it shows. Good to know there are still some surprises left for me when I crack open the battlebox.




    I've addressed my photo setup's biggest glaring omission by adding a fill light -- don't tell anyone, but it's an LED flashlight in a grocery bag -- and now Gimp's auto white balance is freaking out, so I did these by hand. My adventures in photography continue.


    C&C appreciated. These are test models, so let me know what works, what doesn't, and what you'd suggest.

    • Like 1
  12. I'm really starting to get sick of putting paint on these sculpts. What a pain -- everything seems to be in the way of everything else. Oh well; since I'm close to finishing pLylyth, I figured I'd use these folks as test models for a Legion of Everblight warbeast scheme. Seems appropriate: I bet hormagaunts get experimented on all the time. Anyway:




    The dark one got re-basecoated in a 50:50 mix of cloudy grey and blue liner; the lighter one got basecoated in cloudy grey, and shaded somewhat with a thinned version of the previous. Both were then shaded with brown liner. The darker guy got an initial highlight of 50:50 cloudy grey and snow shadow, while the lighter just got snow shadow.




    The carapace started with intense brown, then got strategically streaked with the whole damn khaki triad, plus linen white.


    Not sure which I like better; the darker skin tone has better contrast, but was more of a pain to paint. It'll be more obvious when I add the details, I guess.

  13. pLylyth herself is -- provisionally -- done.




    Highlighted the cloak in desaturated blues up to snow shadow, and did the bow in my first hack at a streaky-carapace scheme using the khaki triad and linen white. The latter was tough to pull off on such a small and fiddly surface, but it's not too bad for my first attempt. I'm using the "carapace" scheme specifically to tie the figure in with the (still unassembled) rest of my Legion of Everblight battle box, and I'll probably come back later to improve it.


    Either way, I'm on to the base. And the Carnivean.

  14. Hey, I can play:






    Notice the thoroughly halfassed "light box" and the depressing lack of proper lighting. On the other hand, storing my brushes point-down with blu-tac on the side of the "light box" is working far better than I'd hoped.


    Update: Got sick of the old box-o-paints and built a paint shelf stack out of foamcore.




    I'm probably going to have to add another shelf underneath, because I'm probably going to buy more paints. ::):

  15. Bone scrollwork is done. Highlighting and shading wasn't nearly as much trouble as I expected: once all the fiddly bits were picked out in a nice contrasting colour, following the base coat was pretty straightforward. Also, I'm kind of shocked by how no one step seemed to make much of a difference over the last, but once I finished it made a huge difference.




    Base coat, you'll recall, was terran khaki. I highlighted up through khaki highlight and linen white to a few spots of pure white, and shaded with blue liner.


    Somewhere in there I put a few highlights on the hair, which you can't really see in these photos.


    I'm planning to highlight the inner cloak with a desaturated blue, up to something like snow shadow, in order to balance the blues on the back. I think the bow would look pretty good painted up like a piece of antler, in colours not too dissimilar from the bone scrollwork. (This'll help tie the figure in with the carapace-tastic Legion of Everblight warbeasts.)

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