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Posts posted by Ferox

  1. The safety equipment runs at least: $3.50 + $15.00 + $12.00. And you could pay more, much more, depending on what gloves or respirator you fancied.

    I don't really have an opinion on ground glass for snow effects, but high-quality safety glasses and a respirator are awfully good things to have around the shop regardless of what you use for basing material.

  2. Did a whole bunch of tiptoeing around the elephant in the room -- I shaded and highlighted the red cloth, the skin, and the leather that wasn't part of the bone scrollwork. Might get to that tomorrow.




    So far, so good. I'm particularly happy with the way the feathers (?) on the back of her cloak came out -- shaded with nightshade purple, highlighted with rosy highlight.

  3. The putty work looks seamless after the paint. Nice job!


    I'd like to see more highlights, particularly on the skin. The greenish teal is a bit too dark to read as "highlight" for me; a lighter blue like RMS Snow Shadow would help make the skin pop. Same with the hair -- you could use Snow Shadow there as well, or any other blueish off-white.


    I like the detail on the severed heads, and the way you mixed some gold and red into the palette without getting away from the blue-brown scheme.


    (I'd also suggest mounting this guy on something substantial, like a 2" fender washer: I'd hate to see him get knocked over enough to chip the paint.)

  4. Workbench update:


    Devout warjack

    Tentacle pit

    03077 Goblins II (4)

    03462 Goblin Warriors (4)

    Thomas Hammerfist


    Norgol, Irongrave Knight

    Dwarven Warrior

    Young Swamp Dragon

    Jolie, Scribe

    prime Lylyth

    Centurus Clones (2)

    Hormagaunts (2)


    The new addition is a birthday gift for a friend; I brought it home today and cleaned all the parts (ten of 'em!). Beautiful casting, barely any mold lines. Also got plenty of work done on pLylyth.

  5. Note also the taut bowstring -- looks good, don't it?

    That what I was on about... ...that does look good. Did you do the bending of the limbs scheme that you mentioned earlier?

    Sure did. Compare the most recent photo to the first one: In the first post's photo, the upper "spikes" of the bow are at about 45deg to the bowstring axis. In the most recent. they're nearly perpendicular.

  6. Hah -- did the bone! Well, basecoated it, at least.




    That's all terran khaki. It's gonna get highlighted in, oh, probably I'll go right up to linen white since there's no room to blend most of it.


    One comforting thing I noticed while I was going over the detail is that no-one's going to care about any given brushstroke. (This is much like my epiphany on freehand above.) All the little lines and curlicues add up to a more or less atomic whole of "zOMG that's a lot of detail", at least for a piece like this that isn't going to anything like Golden Daemon judging panels. pLylyth here is essentially a gaming piece, albeit the centrepiece of a Legion of Everblight force if I ever get everything painted up and find some other WarmaHordes players around here, so while I want to paint her to as high a level as I can I'm not too worried about living up to the model's potential.


    All that said, I'm glad I put this off for almost eight months. My brush control now is far and away better than it was in mid-2010.


    Note also the taut bowstring -- looks good, don't it?


    Front needs some big blues, which I think will be the highlights on the cloak interior. Might do some freehand in this vein, although that example isn't remotely balanced in light/cold between front and back. What do you think?

  7. If I'm going for a tabletop quality paint job - like a large unit of orcs or something, I don't bother with the washing step, I go straight to primer after assembly and mold line removal. Rarely causes any issues if I don't.

    I tried that with some GW plastic zombies. The time I saved by not washing them, I more than wasted when the primer (Liquitex gesso) wouldn't stick to certain parts of the minis. Might not be an issue if you spray-prime.

  8. I went over these guys with a wash of green ochre, thinner than I'd use for a basecoat but thicker than I'd use for shading. As an experiment, it worked superbly: I obtained unequivocal data that I can generalize to other cases. As a speed-painting method... not so much, no.






    Paint thin enough to let the underlying values show through is blotchy and uneven. Paint thick enough to produce a reasonably even coat obscured the underlying values. Two coats of the wash started to approach a compromise -- reasonably smooth, with a bit of the "monochrome highlight" showing through -- but now I'm looking at three full coats, plus a (touch-up) highlight, plus a (touch-up) shadow... and at that point I might as well paint the old-fashioned way, because I'm not saving any time.


    Furthermore, the bits of the undercoat that do show through are about as rough as I left them; with a 10-minute time investment in each figure that's not surprising. This might work if I were to prime black and lay down a very smooth gradient up to white, by misting with an airbrush or something, and if I were to use something like GW's new magic washes (which I gather are inks rather than pigments) instead of regular paint. Either way, not what I had in mind.


    I'm afraid these guys'll go back on the Shelf of Shame for a while, and eventually I'll dig 'em out and either finish them properly or strip them and start over. I'm not exactly thrilled by the ochre look, anyway.

  9. While waiting for the putty to set, I did this to the back of the cloak:




    Turns out I've been doing freehand wrong every time I've tried it: rather than trying not to screw up one thick line, I should've been laying down a bunch of really thin lines such that no single mistake ruins the piece. Anyway, I've discovered my mistake, and the results above reflect that.


    I started out by lightly shading the (cinder brown) cloak with nightshade purple, and highlighting it all the way with khaki shadow. The latter went on kind of chalky and needed a thin wash of cinder brown to smooth out the blends. Then I laid down the border in thin strokes of snow shadow, and once I was happy with those I reinforced them with ghost white. I did the same with all the crap on the bottom of the cloak. Finally, I added some pure white to the freehand on top of the highlights, and did another light shading pass with nightshade purple to bring down the freehand in the shadows.


    I am quite pleased with the results.

  10. The only thing that really bugged me about the bowstring was the wobbly-ness of it. To illustrate:




    I hope you can get it to behaving like the red line I added to the Jpeg. When it bends at the wrong points it just screams, "I am not a bow string!". Good luck with the forward bending plan :unsure: sounds like it might work.

    Yeah, I hear you. The problem is that the wire isn't really under a lot of tension, so it doesn't like to go taut the way a bowstring would. Something like fishing line might work better -- but I don't happen to have any of that lying around.


    Anyway, my plan is to try to leave the posts where they are and bend the tips of the bow forward, to put the wire under a bit more tension.

  11. Back to work.


    Since I'm thinking of getting into WarmaHordes, I've rebased Lylyth... onto a nickel. The 30mm Privateer Press bases are just a bit too big for a one-inch D&D battlegrid, and the 25mm Reaper bases obviously aren't kosher for WarmaHordes. However, a nickel fits nicely into the round recess on top of a 30mm PP base and works just fine for D&D, and human-sized figures for WarmaHordes are light enough that I should be able to hold the nickel in place with a bit of blu-tak. Hence, this:




    While I was hammering away between the base and the cork slab with a half-inch chisel, the bowstring all y'all seem to dislike lifted off like it wasn't even glued down. Okay, I can take a hint! After trying to fix the new one (two strands of copper speaker wire twisted together) with CA and mostly just getting my fingers all gummed up, I resorted to green-stuff. I'll trim it when it's cured a little, bend the bow forwards to draw the wire taut, and add a little dab of CA to those sort-of-a-compound-bow posts, and prime the relevant bits. Meanwhile, I can get some work done on the back of her cloak.

  12. Thanks!


    Too bad you didn't do a WIP.

    There's really not that much to it. The armour was the most time-consuming step: undercoat in black, two coats of slightly thinned Adamantium Black, shade with blue liner, highlight with thinned true silver and a touch of Vallejo metallic medium. Aside from that, everything has a base coat, a shade, and a highlight.

  13. Workbench update:


    Seltyiel conversion

    Iks, the Wight

    Tentacle pit

    03077 Goblins II (4)

    03462 Goblin Warriors (4)

    Thomas Hammerfist


    Norgol, Irongrave Knight

    Dwarven Warrior

    Young Swamp Dragon

    Jolie, Scribe

    prime Lylyth

    Centurus Clones (2)


    Here's hoping these guys don't take me all year; I want to get them done before I dig any further into my unassembled stockpile. (I'll make exceptions for things like birthday gifts and a possible entry into WarmaHordes, but otherwise I'm trying to avoid buying new minis without making a dent in what I already have.)

  14. I've had this guy on my workbench, primed and undercoated, for the better part of a year now. Today, I picked up bottles of RMS Adamantium Black and Scorched Metal. Time to experiment....




    Pretty pleased with both, actually. I had a hard time finding a shadow colour for the deep red cloth; I ended up with a mix of swamp green and blue liner (which worked pretty damn well on the bone, too -- terran khaki base, highlighted with linen white). Any recommendations for a properly dark green? Should I just pick up a bottle of green liner and get it over with?


    I guess this guy's kind of a speed-paint, if you don't count the months he spent languishing on the bench: I have about two or three hours in him altogether. Funnily enough, I'm not terribly excited about the armour, although I think I did a sufficient job. The shield, on the other hand, makes me happy.


    C&C appreciated.

    • Like 1
  15. Thin your paints a bit more -- more water means they dry out less on the brush. (Drying retarder ought to help too, for obvious reasons, but I've never used it.)


    Rinse out your brushes more often -- not only will this help keep it from drying out on the bristles, but it'll help prevent paint from climbing up under the ferrule. Your brushes will stay in good condition for much longer.


    If you wipe excess paint off your brush onto a paper towel, wipe it onto a damp part of the towel rather than a dry part. This discourages the medium from flowing off the brush and leaving nothing but pigment particles behind.


    All that said, though, paints with a lot of white in them are notorious for getting chalky at the slightest provocation. Work with thin coats and experiment with additives (mostly water, in my experience; YMMV in a different climate) to see what works best for you.

  16. I bought a can of Dullcote a year and a half ago and cheerfully used it -- weather permitting -- until it ran out. Now I use Reaper's brush-on sealer, thinned with water, no matter what the weather's doing. I'm not at all disappointed by comparison. Of course, I live in Vancouver, where it rains a lot; if I lived in, say, Arizona I might be more partial to aerosols.


    My miniatures don't get much hard use -- I use 'em for tabletop RPGs, but don't drag 'em to distant lands for wargame tournaments -- so I'm happy with just the brush-on sealer. If I get back into something like 40k I'll be experimenting with Future (hard to find around here, last I checked; do other floor waxes work just as well?) and a topcoat to knock down the gloss.

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