skya

http://skya.shadowdragon.net/fullpics/R-SnakeyDemoness.jpg Lots of browns, yellow browns shaded with red browns. Mix in a little of the pinker flesh tones to smooth it out a bit.

I repeat. You need help.

Winsor Newtons Series 7 are in fact designed for use in watercolor painting. If however you are willing to devote them to acrylics instead of watercolors they work *quite* nicely for mini painting. You just wont ever get the same flow out of them for watercolors ever again.

I'll be there. Stilll need to figure out where I'm staying. Lord Baasan you still interested in carpooling?

Huh, there's some neat lookng figs in that stuff. Too bad they arent in metal, I'd enjoy painting that psionic warrior. I kinda doubt that the plastics have enough sharpness to the detail to make them worth repainting though. Oh well.

That's kinda wierd. I ran the auctions for the local comic/game store when they were clearing out their old inventory and we littlerally did a couple hundred auctions. I didnt have a single issue with overseas bidders and shipping. We shipped all over the world. I think the only continent I didnt eventually ship something to was Africa. Mind you, I did make a point of adding a statment telling overseas bidders to email me for exact shipping totals.

I sell my minis under paintminion as well. It gives Sue a break every now and then in coming up with a mini to sell every week. Everything else I do on ebay is under hida_dragonbane . Depending on where I am I'll either be Skya, Bijili, K_Skya or Kitsu Skya.

Dude, you need help.

Drybrushing isnt cheating. It's a perfectly acceptable way of doing things like fur or feathers on a gaming mini. It just looks rather out of place when you try to do it on cloth or skin because it adds a texture that your eye says shouldnt be there.

Heck, I am going through Chicago (Minivans are nice, but I prefer my car ... more comfortable on the long hauls. Besides, I will probably have 2-3 stops along the way to say "hi" at various LGS. Always a good way to do a road trip. For me, it used to be stop at the really big used book stores on the way.

I'll have to second that. It's always hard to find good mini's for Druid Animal Companions. Regular, ordinary, *proportionaly* sized dogs for one thing. All I can find are ones that look like they're way too small. Wolves would be good too as they are one of the most commonly taken companions. I had to go to Clan Wars to Find decent horses for our D&D party. Of course since Reaper has the license for Clan Wars it'd be cool to see some of those horses back in print....

I've taken citadel paints that were the consistancey of rubber and brought them back to life by slicing them with an exacto and mixing in extender/flow improver. Flow Aid, Extender and Flow Improver are pretty much the same thing. I've never needed to revive anything other than a citadel paint. Heh.

If the theory of flying down falls through I may join you on that one. I'm in the Chicago area which if I recall the roads right would be on the way.

If it tastes vile you're that much less likely to lick your brush now arent you? :p

I've not yet gotten a chance to play Confrontation, and I've only had a demo Warmachine. However that said Warmachine struck me as incredably easy. Roll to hit, roll to damage if you hit, and mark of how much damage you do on the boxes of a card that you keep in a sleeve with a wipe off marker. Even the spells work like that. Then you get a certain number of tokens that you can allocate to your guys per turn that either allow you to cast spells, move more, attack more or roll more dice. It gives you a bit more of a dynamic feel to the game. I am waiting till I see a copy of the full rules before I pass final judement though.

WarMachine is set in a world that is actually pretty fantasy based, you have steam engines and such but your castles and medieval architecture arent going to be the least bit out of place. It's a D&D world with pistols and steam engines.

Really? Neat, how much are they?

Privateer Press's website is http://www.privateerpress.com/ that covers all the stuff related to their game world. Maybe one of these days we will actually see the main world book. I've been waiting since January last year for it. *sigh* If you are just interested in Warmachine the website is http://www.ikwarmachine.com/ Rackham makes Confrontation, which is actually a skirmish game. Mind you most of their stuff is in French, but it is in the proccess of being released in English. I've been considering looking into it as I'll probably have enough of the Lions faction painted up for an army by the time I'm done painting all the ones I've been drooling over. I am seriously looking forward to seeing the Warlord game too. More excuses to buy all those pretty Werner figures. *evil grin*

You could try taking your standard square reaper bases, basing a mini normally and then gluing it into an empty dice cube, then glueing the dice cube shut. Not quite as durable but nowhere near as expensive as resin. *grin* Besides then you've got an excise to buy more dice....

Flow aid is an acrylic medium that you add to your paint to "water it down" without changing the consistancy of it. You know how when you add water to your paint it will often get kind of grainy or start to clump with the pigment colors seperating out? This keeps that from happening and allows you to thin your paint down dramatiacally and still have it go on smooth. I'd go insane without this stuff. Retarder (also called slow dry) is added to slow the amount of time it takes for your paint to dry. This is great for wet blending or for when you need to get up from your paints for a bit but dont want to waste all the paint you just mixed to the right color. I've seen a drop of slow dry added keep the paint still dry on the palette half an hour later. As for Golden and Liquitex those are brand names. Folk Art is another brand name that works just as well and costs about half as much.

It's just so much more work and I really like nice thin layers *shrugs* That's cool as long as it's what you're going for enjoy. :)

If you want to go for a more natural looking shadow than brown lining works better than black. Black tends to give it a very stylized cartoony feel. Brown also works on the skin tones without making them look grey. Priming balck would not be my recomminded method of black lining anyways as it means you have to add more layers of paint to the mini to get the colors not to look muddy. If you prime white the colors end up much brighter in the end. I really gotta get some pictures up.....

It looks like an amusing place to hang out. Besides I'm avoiding reality today *grin* I dunno about Ginger, but Jen introduced me to Tangerine Sour Altoids. Man those things are good.

Thank you much. I plan on making a page for my minis linked off of my illustration page once I get my act together and set up some decent lighting to take pictures of of them with. On topic: Hey I can hope right?

Sweet. Are you planning on having it out by Origins or GenCon? Let me know when you start doing demos and I'll happily set up and give demos at the local stores out here.