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NewWarlord

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About NewWarlord

  • Birthday 06/16/1971

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    http://www.inaneimages.com
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    Male
  • Location
    San Jose, CA
  • Interests
    Playing miniatures and RPG games. Painting mini's. Card stock modeling.

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  1. Colored rubber bands. WOW. That has to be the best idea I've seen yet. That just made life SO much easier. I feel like the guy in the V-8 commercial that just got knocked upside the head. Or a Homer Simpson DOH moment. Thanks for that suggestion I'm gonna use that one for sure.
  2. If you've put your models on round bases and now need them square to play Warlord this might be a cheap solution for you. Materials: 4 Super disc magnets -N38 - 1/8 inch dia x 1/16 inch thick. 6 cents each 1 non slotted 25mm square plastic base (or whatever size you need to convert to. Superglue Single hole puncher Thin plasticard (like what comes in the warlord model blister protecting the datacard) Punch out 2 plastic discs for each model you want to make a square base for. These are used as shims on the model base to bring the magnets closer in proximity to the square base magnets. Glue these in two places on opposite sides on the bottom of the models base (the round one). Now glue one magnet to each plastic 'dot'. A good tip is to have the stack of magnets on top of the base to hold the single one on the bottom in place. Let them dry. Place the round based model on top of a square base and turn them over. Drop two glue drops right where you want the magnets to land on top of where the magnets are underneath on the round base. Now drop one magnet at a time near that glue drop and it will snap in place from the magnetism. let dry. Done. Here's a dumb video of what it looks like when the magnets are in place- My Dumb Video (Sorry it's a wmv but I rushed it out on MS movie maker) ~NW
  3. I feared that was the case. Oh well. I still want to play the new edition. I have a solution if anyone else needs one for temporary conversion of round to square bases using dirt cheap high powered tiny magnets and 25mm non-slotted square bases. The cost for conversion comes out to under 50 cents a model. Not bad to get the best of both worlds (that is if you like round bases) I'll work on getting together a video for explanation of the conversion.
  4. I haven't read the 2nd edition rules yet (My book should be here next Tuesday) But If the AoE is like 1st edition, where is the advantage? Center point to center point on Area of Effect should have rendered base size and shape meaningless? Now I'm curious what the rules are in 2nd edition for AoE. and DAAAAAAAAANG... I've been putting everything on round bases because of my rpg addiction and previous round based models. However, I think I have a solution. I'll work on a write up or video on it in case anyone else wants to use it if they made the same mistake I did by using round bases.
  5. Gus, yes, multiple data cards or mutiple copies on a printed roster page. The easiest way I've found is mark the cards with a colored marker to match a colored dot on the model. Or if you like painting your duplicate models with distinguishable marks... you just make something like a hat or armband a different color for each duplicate. Some people don't 'base' their models with flocking. I've seen those guys put a paint dot or colored office dot there. I prefer to paint the color on a sword hilt or some item big enough on the model that's not out right distracting. I've seen a lot of other gamers do it in some other game systems where multiple copies of one type of creature are used. If on the other hand you're trying to show your opponent how much damage your models have taken and represent that on the field, then I'd go for something like whats already been suggested.
  6. With all the 1000 or 1500 or 2000 point armies, what is the average number of models used in those respective point lists? Does it vary wildly? I'm just now starting and trying to figure all this out.
  7. For the damage tracking issue: I use penny sleeves with the data cards and mark on the protected card with a wet erase marker. The other thing I've seen done is to print out a sheet with the data card info on it and use a pencil to line through the damage track you're on. Colored dots on the model base help to match up which data card info matches which model on the field. ~NW
  8. I'm leaning toward Necropolis because vampires are just cool (and vampire women are hot). But ALL of the factions look viable and fun to play. I got into it by buying a copy of first edition rules for 10 bucks from an flgs going out of business. I haven't played yet. I can't find anyone local. I used to be heavy into Mage Knight. Quick fast paced skirmish style table top battle. Warlord, from what I've gathered so far, could be the replacement addiction I've been looking for for so long now. Even better is there's no clicky base AND I get quality metal figs. Plastic just doesn't do enough damage when you throw them at your opponent (jk... I'd only do that if the paint job sucked) (ok, no, not even then, I'm only keeeeding)
  9. Hello all. Wanted to introduce myself. I'm not new to reaper, but I am new to the warlord game er r.a.g.e. system for it. I just put in an order for the 2nd edition rules book at FRP. Now i need to find a victim *coughcough* I mean Friend to play with. I couldn't figure out the search for fellow members thing this thread talked about: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=17615 but I'm not search savvy in this forum yet so maybe it's the noob I got all over me still. Anyway howdie all. I look forward to posting pics of my attempt at paint jobs on the figures for warlord and chattin with ya'll. If anyone is in the San Jose, California area and can tolerate 38 year old noob to Warlord, gimme a hollar.
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