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gnrrrg's Achievements

Mostly Harmless

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  1. I usually scrub mine down with an old toothbrush before painting. I have heard that they spray the molds with a substance to keep the figures from sticking after being cast and if there is any residue of this spray on the figure then it the paint won't stick as well. I don't know if this is true or not, but I have had less problems with my base coat since I started scrubbing the figures down first than I had before doing this.
  2. My note had the second letter, but it put a gap between it and the first letter so I was looking at it as four 'words' instead of just three. The thread is helpful.
  3. Those of you who play in Pathfinder Society Organized Play know that wayangs are currently a legal race to play. The picture of a wayang in the Advanced Race Guide has always reminded me of Vincent Price, so I got a little Vincent Price figure to do a paint job on for my wayang. I have decided to make him a summoner based on the Abominable Dr. Phibes and make Vulnavia his eidolon. Those of you familiar with the movie are aware that Vulnavia's most striking physical characteristics are that she is a beautiful woman and half the time she wears one of those furry Russian hats. I tried a search on Reaper's site under "Russian" to see if anything came up with the hat and nothing did. Does anyone have any suggestions for a figure I could use. For another character I made a handlebar mustache and bowler hat using the green stuff that turned out reasonably well, but I doubt I could make a furry hat that didn't look like the character was being attacked by some sort of an ooze.
  4. It's bigger than you want, but Yephima Cloud Giantess (https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/yephima/sku-down/77162) would make a good dominatrix figure. A little modification to the club (file it down a bit and/or using the green stuff) can turn it into a paddle easily enough and the outfit is about right.
  5. Hello all, I am working on a game that I hope to test out at some upcoming conventions. I plan on using the Bonesylvania figures, but if they take enough damage they rage and turn into something else and I need to choose figures for what they change into. Some examples are: Patch - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77607 - will turn into Gaunt - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/gaunt/sku-down/77211 Bart - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77603 - will turn into a Flesh Golem - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/flesh golem/sku-down/77169 Mel - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77605 - will turn into one of these - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bat/sku-down/80040 The issue I'm having is size. The Bonesylvania figures fit well with a one-inch base. The figures I have them turning into are using about a two-inch base and I would like the figure size to fit the base. Yes, I could fit a standard sized mini on a larger base and just let the players use their imagination, but it wouldn't look as nice. I have larger figures picked out to go out with some of the Bonesylvania figures but, having no good size reference, can't decide on figures for the others. Can anyone suggest a larger, more dangerous looking version of the following: Esme - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77610 Morty - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77602 Cal - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77599 Max - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77600 Gus - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77601 Tut - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77597 Sandy - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77596 Tish - https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bonesylvania/sku-down/77595 Thank you
  6. If you chose the mythos add on to the kickstarter project you got three figures - Cthulhu, a shoggoth, and a third one that looks like it's a bunch of mouths. Does anyone know what this third creature is supposed to be?
  7. Update - Tried a few Bones on washer with spackle combos and it seems to work well. Rats are a slight problem because the bones base is thicker and square so that the corners are close to the edge of the washer (one-inch washer) making it harder to build spackle up around the corners and still have it look good.
  8. I'm looking for a good way to base Bones figures. I have done one in the past, just superglue and a plastic base and for general use it worked but, as superglue tends to do, it sheered off in transport. Basing pewter - If it comes with a slotted base and a metal insert for the slot, superglue usually works well. I've done many of these and I think only 2 have had to be reglued due to sheering and they were a loose fit in the slot to start with. If it doesn't come with a base I superglue it to a washer, let that dry for a few hours, and then use spackle compound to cover the joint between the washer and the figure as well as make the base more continuous looking. I've probably done this as many times as I've used slotted bases and have never had a figure sheer off the base. I'm just not sure how well this would work with Bones. Will the Bones figure glue to a washer well as a pewter figure? Will the spackle stick to the Bones as well as it does to metal? The big advantage would be that using a washer as a base would be more stable (Bones figures are sort of light and I'm guessing will be knocked over frequently when used). The disadvantage would be, as questioned above, I don't know if the Bones will adhere to metal and/or spackle compound as well as pewter does. Are there any success or failure stories out there about basing Bones figures yet?
  9. A few months ago I found a picture on-line (which I wish I had saved at the time, but didn't), where the painter had done some really fine details on. There was a close up of her face and her eyes had pupils, the coloured portion, the little lines that radiate out in the coloured portion, etc. I won't go so far as to say that they looked like real eyes, but they had all the details I'd expect to see in a real eye. Obviously, this wasn't done with any brush that I own and I was wondering if anyone knew what brush would work best for such detail. I've got one old brush that I use for detail that is basically a single bristle, the others having worn off from use, but even with that I'm limitted in what I can do.
  10. I have found that mixing varying amounts of Reaper's Polished Silver (09054) with a colour can give it a silky or metalic look. It's been a while since I've done it, but I believe the silver to colour ratio is roughly: Silk - 1 to 7 Metal - 1 to 5. Of course, it will vary for different colours. Light greens and light blues have worked best for silk and don't require as much silver to be mixed in. Reds can work for silk, but require a little more silver and start to take on a more pink or lavender look before they start to look silky. For metals I've done mostly gold mixes but have had some success with blue tinted armour.
  11. Thanks. Some of the example pictures on the tutorial look way out of my league, but still gotta try it.
  12. Suppose you want someone to be holding a glass mug instead of a wooden one? Has anyone found a way to give pewter the illusion of being transparent?
  13. Minotaurs without weapons. I've been looking for a good unarmed minotaur figure for some time and keep coming up with nothing. (The MageKnight minotaur is ok, but I didn't paint it.) And, lest I forget, non-holiday Sophies. I got Pirate Sophie, but for some reason I really don't care for any of the holiday ones. Let's get some other genre based Sophies out there.
  14. Britta looks good except for the sword. (Though I'll probably still buy one just because it's a good looking figure.)
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