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Everything posted by Cypharius

  1. I use Liquitex airbrush medium, works well for me.
  2. I have no idea, over to the Mad paint Scientist...
  3. Test it out on one of the mini's armour bits, it should be ok, failing that have you tried adding some brush on sealer to the mix?
  4. This is the stuff I'm on about, works for me. http://www.liquitex.com/Products/fluidmedairbrush.cfm I've got a slightly modified mix in a MSP spare bottle, where the mix is:- 50% Airbrush Medium 25% distilled water 12% flow aid 12% fluid retarder There abouts anyway.
  5. Here you go, I think this is the same problem. the front half of the mini was done with MSP Deep Red and Water 1:1, the back half was done using a 1:1 mix of paint and Airbrush medium.
  6. Have a look at the pic in post 10 in one of my older threads. The front half of the model was a mix of the colour and distilled water. The back half of the model was done with 1:1 of the paint and Liquitex airbrush medium. The front half looks a bit chalky and dried out, whereas the back half looks a better solid colour. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/38733-airbrushing-with-msp/page__p__556301__hl__Airbrush__fromsearch__1entry556301 Maybe similar? I'll have a go at doing the same with Deep Red now and see the results.
  7. I'm using the Black Primer with a somewhere around a 3:1 - 4:1 ratio for Paint:Water. It seems to do the job for me.
  8. A friend asked for this colour scheme, so after a bit of playing around with suitable colours... More to come.
  9. found it. see post #4 by Anne. http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/36592-lots-of-questions-from-a-reaper-noob/page__p__526069__hl__MSP%20label__fromsearch__1entry526069
  10. It's more to do with keeping the costs down. There is a post somewhere on the forums that explains why they changed.
  11. Yes, they will look and feel exactly like VMC paints. Thick and gloopy.
  12. I've used GW paints for years eventually getting a bit annoyed that my second Mega paint set had dried up, those new plastic pots are rubbish for paint longevity. so I decided to try out Vallejo Game colour, wasn't too keen on them, despite the similar colour range to the GW paints. I then decided to give the Vallejo Model colour range a bash, nice range of military colours but was always finding that some of my choice of colours were hard work to put through the airbrush and I want always keen on the Vinyl look so after finally getting to a position where I could get the RMS paints to the UK, I decided to give Reaper Master Series a go... I now have the range of RMS paints which I use pretty much exclusively now and have the following full sets of paint collecting dust on a shelf:- VMC VGC Coat D'Arms The RMS paints just seem to complement my paint style. I can control the fluidity and characteristics of the paint and a useful aspect for me is I can use the paint via brush OR airbrush, so colour matching is less of a problem. I might crack open the Coat D'Arms paints from time to time when I need to do a bit of brush dunking to get a lot of mini's painted for a game army, but it's pretty much RMS all the way for me these days.
  13. I've put the GW washes in some Reaper dropper bottles, more chance they'll last more than 6 months before drying out.
  14. Walnut brown is a great black substitute. I use it a lot of the time instead of black for space marine armour, as it allows me to shade with pure black.
  15. The new GW brushes are pretty ordinary, they certainly dont look/feel like kolinsly sable from the other brands. I've got some Series 7 brushes that I've had for about 5 years and are still going strong. If you want a good 'cheap' kolinsky, get some from Rosemary & Co, as they're comparable to GW prices, but MUCH better. Sharpe, The W&N S7 Mini brushes are good, but take a look at them first, you might not get on with the short brush height, I found that the ferrule was too big for my liking.
  16. well, I've gone and dropped an order in for some. If they're similar to the Citadel Devlam Mud, Ogryn flesh and Gryphonne Sepia, I'll be sorted.
  17. I've been doing a bit more with the airbrush, and have been trying to use the RMS paints exclusively on the speeder model. After a respary with a Paint:Thinner mix, I've had a bash at masking off areas and using a nice dirty brown (Russet Brown) for some test weathering styles.
  18. If using Brush on Sealer with an Airbrush, how much would you thin the mix?
  19. I've spent some time this evening going over that model, specifically covering the frontal area, which looked bad. I mixed the paint with the Liquitex airbrush thinner on a 1:1 and it's now looking a nice colour tone all over the model. Note to self. Stick with the airbrush medium as a mixer...
  20. I've been doing a bit more over the last day or so with the airbrush and tried to use water rather than liquitex medium and there's a stark difference between what was sprayed with liquitex and what was sprayed more recently with a RMS : Water mix. (1:1) The liquitex mixed paint section is a nicer colour, the watered mix has come out as a more pastel / chalky, lighter colour. I'll put up a pic later if I can get the camera to capture the colour difference. It's not a huge problem, as I tend to use medium more than water for mixing through the airbrush, but it's an interesting difference. Anyone have any ideas on this? EDIT: Can someone link me the Windex approach please?
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