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fishnjeeps

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Everything posted by fishnjeeps

  1. Its a house rule that none of the buildings are capable of supporting the weight of a CAV. Though infantry can embark/disembark a building as if it was a transport. It also give heavy cover (+2) to infantry inside. Cavs can enter and exit the Mach Bay though.
  2. Why not take a sample of the paint you need to Sherwin Williams/Home Depot/Lowes and have them analyze it on the spectrometer and color match it into quarts or gallons for you? Dependent on type of paint of course, but it worked well for matching a color I needed for an R/C Sopwtih Camel I had a hard landing on and had to repair. Its a pearlized automotive paint. Sherwin williams wouldn't hold up to constant outdoor abuse nor the heat my bike generates when running. Plus they wouldn't have the pearls. There would still be the issue of not having a large enough air supply for an hvlp. I did however find a low pressure air gun for around $350 that should work. This is a pic of how this is going. The small pattern on the airbrush makes initial coats look blotchy. This is after about an hour of spraying just one area. I would only consider this one coat and I'll need a few more coats when I'm done. I have to be able to sand between coats to knock down the orange peel I'm getting. I do like the color though.
  3. Yes, the best way to get a larger spray pattern is with the bigger needle although its not going to be all that much. Are you trying to paint the entire motorcycle or just a pattern. I wouldn't attempt to paint a 1:1 vehicle of any kind with an airbrush except for smaller detail work a spray gun would be a better choice. The size of the spray pattern might be larger with an external mix airbrush but I haven't ever used one, but it would make sense to me. I'm doing the entire bike both basecoat and some pattern work. I'm using rattle can sandable primer. That brush might could work. I have paint bottle adapters for my VL but the VL isn't working right. $40 is doable for this project. I have to use my airbrush compressor (it has a small tank) as I can't power my larger airbrush. Yep, Lifesize. I can buy larger bottles, but its cheaper to buy the smaller bottles with a coupon. Plus, I have adapers to connect the bottle directly to a siphon feed brush. I'm painting the bike in Createx wicked Lime pearl with some Silver racing stripes with skulls in the stripes. (at least thats the plan.) I'm also doing this one piece at a time as I still need to drive the bike. Basically the tank and rear fender will be last as the bike won't run with those removed.
  4. I"m looking to figure out how to either get a larger spray pattern on my current airbrush or find an airbrush I can purchase that will give me a larger spray pattern. I'm painting a 1:1 scale motorcycle and need a larger spray pattern. I don't want to go to an full HVLP gun. I'm using createx's wicked paint which I'm buying in 2oz bottles so trying to fill an hvlp gun would suck. My current airbrush has 3 different size needles and I'm currently using the .03. Would the .05 give a larger spray pattern? Should I be looking at the external mix airbrushes for max coverage? Any help is appreciated.
  5. I spent about 2 hours getting my paint collection into the app. Twice. (I use 2 different devices) This could be useful beyond just mini paints. I know I have a ton of different art media that ends up getting purchased twice because I forgot what we had on hand. Also, being able to track what basing materials (from major sources like secret weapon, army painter, or woodland scenics) would be cool too.
  6. I believe Rattlesnake Leather was a Reapercon Exclusive paint.
  7. I did get some beading at first, but part of that might have been due to the paint being too thin. I only diluted the paint with 1 or 2 drops of water per "Squeeze" of paint. I tended to fill my paint cup about halfway in one "squeeze" (I know its not an accurate measurement but I got it to work.) Its hard to tell as I went over most of it with Troll Shadow, but he wheels on these ashigaru beaded pretty badly. I wasn't concerned as I was planning to paint them another color anyway.
  8. Close, Base is RMS Terran Khaki airbrushed on (some units were hand brushed until I got tired of it taking too long and broke out the airbrush) I pain the Cockpits RMS HD Icey blue. Missiles are painted in RMS Rach Red gun barrels (this one doesn't have them but the starhawk VI does) get P3 Pig Iron. Tires and tank treads are painted in RMS Troll Shadow I don't dip my models but I do brush on Army Painter Strong Tone quickshade. (I use the dropper bottle not the big can) It shifts the color to where I want it and ads depth. once thats dry, I use Army Painter Daemonic Yellow and Matt black for all of the detail work. This model also has RMS HD Field Gray for the front of the missile rack. Some other models use RMS Adon green in places.
  9. I plan on basing all of my terran models in one go. They will eventually get some static grass and rock.
  10. Thanks! Since I use these to actually play CAV I want something that can easily be touched up and won't take forever to paint in the first place. They should look good at arms length and on the table in game. I wouldn't enter them in a painting competition as they are not my "high quality" work.
  11. FInished this Raijin in my Terran Desert Wasteland Scheme. There are SOOOO many missiles to paint. It matches the Starhakw VI I painted. I'm starting to achieve a cohesive looking force.
  12. Finished of both of my Ashigaru in my terran desert wasteland scheme. I airbrushed the basecoat on these. I spent about 2 hours yesterday basecoating all my terran forces with the airbrush (about 20 models).
  13. ME too, I just airbrushed the basecoat on all but 2 of my terran models. Tomorrow I'll work on details and finish them off.
  14. We used them for target locks.
  15. It worked out using the rough terrain rules. No one bothered running through them during our game.
  16. Its slow but strong. I'm glad we were using the 2" per MV rules on roads rule. It packs a punch for sure. Had I remembered to repair damage and had it not gotten stunned, it might have lasted longer. That being said, I really like the Gnomic. Its fast and can dish out a good amount of pain. Sadly, its also not strong enough to stand up to 4 CAV focusing on it. I did learn that I need a bigger game table. our dining room table is a little narrow to work well for a 3 person game.
  17. I may buy a few more pipes next time I go to my FLGS that carries them, I'm not sure I need a whole lot more just yet. I need some mountains next I think. The missing building piece is one of the short lobby pieces. I might be able to make a cardboard piece to replace it. I know I had it when I bought the model, it's just lost in my painting area.
  18. So yesterday I got 2 of my Brother in laws to come over to play a game of CAV. I preset the table with terrain before everyone came over. The woods were considered Light woods, the lava pools were considered rough terrain (there are no Lava terrain rules in the book I could find), and the mousepad grass and cardboard were considered road. (I didn't have time to paint all of the terrain including roads and I don't have a road game mat.) I added a bit more road than is pictured here. Also, The factory building I built is perfect for holding the initiative deck during play. We started with only 1 Dictator A each just to get a feel for how things work. Once we got a feel for the game, we went for a larger 2500pt force consisting of; 1 Emporer 1 Gnomic 1 Dictator A 1 Despot All 3 of us had matching forces. Sadly I didn't have everything painted yet. [/url There were 3 possible deployment zones. There was a zone on either end of the table or you could start in the mechbay in the town. My Borther In Laws chose the table ends leaving me with the mechbay. We house ruled that I couldn't be fired on until a model left the mechbay. In our first game turn Borther in law 1 came up the road behind the mechbay using the buildings to screen his forces. He did some indirect fire towards Brother in law 2. Brother in Law 2 chose to camp in the light woods on the other side of the table and pick off my forces as they left the mechbay. My gnomic and despot did some damage, but I ended up losing my gnomic in turn 1. My Emperor and dictator worked their way over toward Brother in Law 1's forces to keep them out of the city. My Emperor ended the turn stunned. Turn 2 saw significantly more combat. I couldn't move my Emperor so he picked on Brother in Law 1's forces. but didn't destroy anything. My despot was lost in a hail of fire from Brother In Law 2's group who still camped out in the woods. I also lost my Emporer. My dictator decided to find some cover and get out of the way. Brother in Law 1 Did some indirect fire at brother in law 2 but only dammaged a gnomic. Brother in Law 2 then failed his repair roll destroying the gnomic. At that point we called the game due to time (Brother in law 1 had t be up at 330am today and it was almost 9) and declared Brother in law 1 the winner since he didn't loose any models. I'm fairly sure we messed up many of the rules as we went, but we did so consistently so it worked out. Next time, we will have a better Idea of what we are doing. Below are some battle pics.
  19. Still working on my terrain. I picked up this Fanasy arc building a while back and finally got it assembled only to find out I'm missing a piece. Still, it will work for now. I'm slowly adding the cladding to the building. There is a LOT of cladding to add. I also pickup these pipes from Ishtars workshop. They work great as power conduits from the power generator to the gun turrent. I'll be posting a Battle Report showing off the terrain in game.
  20. I picked it up yesterday (even paid for it) and it seems like it will work great. I like the ability to organise my paint schemes by game. Would be cool to eventually add other paint types as well as I have a large number of non mini paint that I use for minis.
  21. Not very, it starts to stall after heavy cardstock tbh. Or so has been my experience. Awesome looking terrain - those bays are really impressive! Supposedly it can cut up to 1/8" thick stock. However you need to adjust some advanced settings that I barely comprehend. I am comfortable enough to use it for making cardstock versions of brass etch. We actually have 2 cricut machines and explore and a mini. So far I'm the only one who's even attempted to use it. The last time I tried it I used the wrong blade and it didn't cut all the way through. I think over time once I learn the software and figure out the propper measurements for the Items I want to make, I'll be able to make some rally nice card stock or matboard buildings. But for now I need some terrain so This is where I am. Speaking of which. I picked up some cool resin terrain pieces at Adepticon this year. I'll post some pics below... These are from Broken Egg Games and they are neoprene forests. They aren't cheap, but they work well. I saw CAVBOSS was using something similar in his demo CAV games and thought they were a great Idea for forests. Just add a few moveable 3d trees and you still have that 3d terrain look without the hassles of having actual trees. (Don't know if I'm making sense here...) A pair of secret weapon gothic generators. I bought 2 for use as objectives or they make cool looking power converters. They can work in multiple scales which is always a good thing in my book. Next up, I bout a bunck of stuff from War Gamma's booth. They had these lava pools which I ended up buying 3 sets of. (2 sets are being shipped to me) These came umpainted but I started painting them before taking pictures (sorry). These again are great for multiple scales and aren't super expensive. The company also makes lakes the same size, but they really aren't lake sized, more like pond size so I passed on the lakes. They also have a volcano that I want to get later to go with these lava pools. Next, also from war gamma, I piced up a wall set with turrent. These are designed for 28mm scale, but I think I can make them work for CAV. I plan on using them as armored barriers (like a trump wall) possibly around my mech bay. The pics show them in their raw unassembled and unpainted form. I have a lot of flash to clean up on these. Also, the turrent could be used as an orbital defense weapon for senario play if I wanted. Finally, I scored some more shipping containers from my local N scale train store. These bad boys are not cheap but once I get a good number, they can be stacked and changed between games for unlimited play options. Unfortunately, they are N scale so they won't easily work for 28mm games. Some of them are magnatized and some aren't (yet) so they should stay together easier. So that is where I am so far. I think I can make a decent table with this stuff. I need to go buy some scale trees to put on my forest tiles which I hope to do tonight. Also, not terrain related, I have 100+ d12 dice coming tomorrow for use as damage trackers.
  22. I use a large framing square and still many of my cuts aren't perfect. I plan on hiding my poor cuts with barring around the bottom. Of anything, I cut parts larger than needed and trim them down after glueing them on. I plan on using a mixture of brass etch parts and the wife's cricut explore to make some detail parts. I'm still leading how to use the cricut software to make my Windows. If it could accept the foamboard, I'd make whole buildings with it. Unfortunately the foam board is too thick even with a deep cut blade.
  23. I got all of the buttress' made and installed. These took a little while to do. I also want to add a bay window control room on the back wall. I haven't figured out how I want that to look though. Here's some pics of my progress... Buttress' installed You can see there is plenty of room for even the larger CAV units to sit and maneuver comfortably... Here the buttress' are closed off... I added a header over the entrance. I think this gives the doors a sci fi feel. It does need some trimming though so the lines look right. In hindsight, I should have made this front one piece instead of 3 separate pieces. There's plenty of room for units to stand in the doorway...
  24. I decided to do a little more work last night and I finished 2 buildings and started on my squad size CAV repair bay. The repair bay will likely be more detailed than my other building attempts. So far, the building count is 8 full buildings and part of the repair bay using only one sheet of foam core. Plus 4 blister houses made from cardboard and blister pack houses. I need to open more CAV Base blisters as the black bases came in a different size plastic than what you see above. Pics... My attempt at an apartment building with balconys. It's crude but gives some variance to the buildings. Once its painted, I can go back and add some clear plastic to the balconys to give a finished look. This is my CAV Squad repair bay. It can accomidate 4 super heavy CAV units. This could be a great objective or even be used as a deployment area. Hopefully the pics I have will show where I'm going with this. There will be buttress' between the CAV bays and a control room on the back wall. I'll also add a door that can be opened or shut. The buttress' are cut I just need to start assembling them before I add them to the actual bays. If you look carefully at the bottom you can see my reference marks that show where they will go.
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