Jump to content

btannehill

Members
  • Posts

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by btannehill

  1. One thing I should mention: I never cut off the original base the dragon was attached to. I just pined the whole thing to the block of wood I had stained and varnished, then build up around the metal base and siguise which parts were metal, which were bits of wood chips I painted to look like rock, and then the model railroad ballast painted to look like granite scree. Added some different shades of green flocking to further blur which stuff was which.
  2. Metalchaos: That was one of the things I learned along the way. I should have used green stuff, especially aong the underside of the wings. As it was, I just used epoxy, and that wasn't enough, or the right choice. Definitely something I will do next time on the hydra I am going to work on.
  3. My biggest project yet! I am happy with some parts, others I would do another way if I were to do it all over again. Still, it has been a great learning experience. Love to hear thoughts and suggestions on how I can make the next project even better.
  4. Total time for each? Perhaps 2 hours at most. I did it assembly-line style.
  5. Skin was done using desert khaki washed with oryn flesh, then dry brushes again with desert khaki. Some deep crevasses were darkened using devlan mud wash.
  6. So, here is my first Bones piece. He's been done to death, but I think he turned out fairly well.
  7. DId you use green stuff to texture the floor first?
  8. Between Mama Geek, Sandra Garrity, Zabby, and myself, there are a few of us out here. The first two are extraordinary by any standard.
  9. Wow. Hammer is gorgeous, and I'd love to know how you painted the base to look like that.
  10. I made him all warm colors on purpose... this is intended to be played as a evoker specialist wizard... aka "The Pyromancer". Thanks for the input... the red things on the staff were supposed to be gems like the one on the headband.
  11. This wasn't a speed job like the others. Happy with how his face turned out, not as much with his staff.
  12. Lastman, Oddly enough, I got the idea from an article I read on the evolution of CGI effects. The article made fun of early attempts at CGI creating realistic looking skin, and noted that the solution was multiple layers of translucent shading. The article also showed that crappy looking skin in CGI also applied to some of the early monsters in CGI as well. A little light bulb went off in my head, and I thought that perhaps layering washes would approximate the CGI approach to realistic skins. I did not use a yellow wash (gryphontone sepia, if I had), given that the green, red, and mud layers all had elements of yellow in them. The first was was a heavy green one, followed by lighter red then brown ones. The green was for basic skin tone, the red-brown of ogryn flesh was for the blood and capilaries under the skin, and the brown layer was for shading and dirt. Additional brown was applied wherever I thought additional shading was needed (such as underneath the pectoral muscle or the armpit). Oh, and I found the articles I mentioned: http://www.cracked.com/blog/the-7-most-common-cgi-screw-ups-explained/?wa_user1=3&wa_user2=Movies+%26+TV&wa_user3=blog&wa_user4=companion http://www.3dtotal.com/index_tutorial_detailed.php?id=824&catDisplay=1&roPos=1&page=1#.UApc-7Se7Aw
  13. So, here's my grand experiment in speed painitng and doing flesh tones using many layers of washes. The orcs started out as pale green, and got washed with thraka green, ogryn flesh, and devlan mud. No idea if it really worked, but these are tabletop pieces designed to get slaughtered by PCs, so if they look awful no one is too upset (well, besides me...).
  14. Ok, found a picture online of the sanding wheel / disk. Duh. <facepalm>. I will use those from now on when I am basing using the magnetic GW bases.
  15. Ok, you lost me now. Sorry. I have a disk cutting tool, but I am not sure what you mean by a disk sander. I'm pretty visual and a bit of a literalist, so I'm trying to figure out what you mean. I apologize for being a bit thick at times.
  16. psyberwolf1: You nailed it. I have the round dremel tool as well I will use this technique on my next round of mass produced minis using the sanding cylinder. Everyone: great tips. Thanks!
  17. Great to see that the plastic paints up pretty nicely. GW... their reformulated washed are terrible... the viscosity is too low for my techniques.
  18. Bowstrings were a first. I wondered how they would turn out.... Used brown sewing thread and used fishline knots at each end to secure the strings. Hawker... you're right, bases are the wakest element in this. I am going to try some new techniques with stone floors the next time I paint more orcs, as suggested by Mamageek.
  19. By putty, do you mea green stuff? Green stuff is really expensive, can you make it thin enough to be cost effective? Another idea I had would be to use epoxy.
  20. Please tell me how you did the floor of the bases. I would LOVE to imitate that.
  21. First new thing I have posted in a long time. These are cheap mooks for PCs to kill. Each one was speed painted assembly lines style, with a total of about 2 hours per figure total. I didn't really experiment here. The next set I post will show off my experiments with skin tone layering.
  22. I need mooks! Here is a partial list of existing figures I would like to see converted: 06051: Anhurian Command 06025: Anhurian Crossbowmen 06023: Anhurian Swordsmen 06004: Men At Arms Of Anhur 06030: Men at Arms- Archers 02467: Gnoll Marauders 03040: Hobgoblins (3) 02818: Bugbear Warrior (2) 02469: Bugbear Warriors Things I would like to see sculpted and added to the Bones line: Kobold archers / crossbowmen / slingers Gnoll Archers / crossbowmen Hobgoblin Archers / crossbowmen Bugbear Archers / crossbowmen
  23. Follow up question regarding prep work on Bones figures. Do they need a coat of primer like the pewter figures, or can you just base and go?
  24. Jordan: that is exactly what I said to my spouse last night when I was describing why the new Bones line is such a good deal: save a ton of money on hordes, and saves a lot of money on big, expensive figures. I think the Bones line should focus on molds of "horde" type figures like men at arms, archers, orcs, hobgoblins, etc...
×
×
  • Create New...