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Whizard Hlavaz

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Posts posted by Whizard Hlavaz

  1. My biggest disappoint? Cthulhu (2007). The Shadow Over Innsmouth is probably my favorite H.P. Lovecraft story, and while the film worked well to capture the creepiness of Innsmouth, I really found myself challenged to get into this film. And I can't quite figure out why. My disappointment had little to do with the changes to the story or the addition of gay themes. In fact, I felt the latter really helped make the main character's sense of alienation from his hometown and roots tangible, especially to a modern audience. I think maybe it was the acting? Tori Spelling aside (which is just a clichéd criticism :lol:), I had a lot of trouble believing the main character's motivation as to even staying in town. And a lot of the other characters just... fell flat. Seemed lifeless. And maybe the acting was supposed to be subtle in order to enhance the mystery behind characters and the town. Make them suspicious and alien. But I just felt a lot of the story was listless and insipid. It didn't grab me the way I'd hoped it would.

     

    And maybe that's the problem. I brought too many expectations to the table. But then, I'm generally pretty good about viewing a piece for what it is, not what I want it to be. Just the same... blah. Lifeless. Such a bummer. ::(:

  2. .... it is the golds and bronzes that get me. I think I need to work on the color choices for those NMMS.

     

    Gold NMM --> Reaper Pro Walnut --> Vallejo Flat Earth --> Vallejo Ochre Yellow --> Vallejo Light Yellow --> Vallejo White --> Winsor & Newton Titanium White

     

    Bronze --> Reaper Pro Walnut --> Vallejo Red Leather --> Vallejo Dark Flesh --> Vallejo Ivory

     

    Or equivalents from any line. Drop the Light Yellow to make "antiqued" gold. Add green/green-blue to tarnish bronze.

  3. Your paint is very clean. Nice job.

     

    The key to NMM is contrast. Contrast on the metal area itself and against surrounding areas. That is to say, there should be movement from very dark to very light across the surface on most painted metals (assuming a full light source) and contrast against the areas adjacent to the metal.

     

    I'm not being clear.

     

    You can make a dot of white on a bit of earth brown gleam like gold if this surface is abutted to a darker region featuring muted highlights. Just a dab of paint will read like metal if the surrounding area is more subdued. So... your piece's breastplate. Keeping the flesh highlights away from white... If the purple of the center was darker the gold trim would gleam hotter and read more like metal if the underside of the trim moved from dark brown (walnut) up and around to earth brown to lemon yellow to white and your edges were trimmed in a light yellow/white. Just remember to keep your whitest white for tight spots of glinting reflection.

  4. Welcome to the boards.

     

    This figure is nicely done. I like your loose application of shadows and grime. The figure looks well traveled. Furthermore, the ruddiness of the face is excellent. Clean up that sleepy eye, and I'd say the face would be near perfect. You could do a bit more the pick out some highlights on the beard to draw out some of the strands.

     

    As previously said, you could work to bump all of your highest highlights. The fact that the fingernails are white definitely diminishes the pop of any other highlights. Bump them down. Otherwise, I think you're on the right track. Darkline for sure, too. Absolutely.

     

    Nice work. ::):

  5. Well, I'm still working on my August figures (go figure ::D:) as I am slow, slow, slow.

     

    So... I will endeavor to:

     

    Finish the 3 witchling stalkers presently in production (bases finished and all 3 basecoated, shaded down and highlights now in progress)

    Finish the Rackham goblin simply because he's based, basecoated, and pre-lined.

     

    Then I'll try to either get my Kvothe project done (using a converted Liriel Silverlocks) or else a Lord Ironraven I have primed or else whatever happens to distract me from everything else. You know... Oooo, shiney! ::D:

  6. My tally for the month as of last night:

     

    Tomb Wraith finished.

    Bonus zombie legs finished.

    Witchling Stalkers well under way. Bases complete. Basecoating and all shading phases complete.

    Rackham Goblin in partial production. Base sculpted and mini mounted. All primed and pre-lined.

     

    So... not likely to finish by tonight. But September will dawn with good progress behind me. ::):

  7. Definitely. Thanks Whiz :) I've just been too scared to go to white, but you're definitely right. It's time to move on up :)

     

    I hear you. Pushing the contrast can be nervewracking. "Have I gone too far?" "Is this cartoony now?" Just remember -- this is painting. You can always glaze to bump in either direction.

     

    Now naturally, you don't always want to go up to white. This is just an exercise to practice training yourself. Truth be told, I rarely highlight up to white. Nor do I usually ever shade to black. I generally reserve white for the topmost glints on metal and instead highlight up to ivory, or a tan, or other lighter colors. I save black for the deepest, deepest shadows on something I actually want to appear black or for darkening colors. Generally, I use walnut or another dark brown for shading my deepest shadows. I figure you can't go any lighter than white or any darker than black, so I save them in the event I need them in the end.

     

    At any rate, try the exercise just to push yourself. It also helps to think about light periodically throughout the day when you happen to think of it and to pay attention to how things around you are lit. You'll be surprised by the range of contrast. Try to replicate this. You paint well. You're ready to push it a bit, IMO.

     

    Good luck! ::D:

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