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Whizard Hlavaz

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Posts posted by Whizard Hlavaz

  1. Ya thinking a secret-santa type thing? We each get a name picked at randomly, and an address. And send said painted thing to them.


    I assume we wanna look at Reaper-oriented minis, natch. But heck, that would be cool. And who's spend the price of shipping (around 3-4 bucks) on something less useful?


    --lstormhammer, who thinks we need to start this soon.

    Secret Santa. Exactly! How fun!  :D


    (Can we get a Santa-hatted smilie, please, Kit? -- Just kidding.)

  2. I'd be interested in that, Domni. I think there's a lot of details that would need to be worked out, but the spirit of the idea is excellent.


    Something along the lines of Holiday Grab Bag wouldn't be bad either. Paint a mini for someone else on the boards. Could be fun. I'd even be willing to suck up the S&H were it the holidays.

  3. I think you'll like those Vallejo paints, lstorm. I use Model Colors now (and so can't speak to the Game Color line specifically) and have been very happy. The pigmentation is great. The price you paid seems a little high, however. You can get them a bit discounted online (and with free shipping at some retailers is worth it).


    Enchantra, as I said above, I can't speak to the Game Color line, but I can speak to the Model Color line. I've found the Vallejo and Reaper paints to be comparable. I enjoy using both equally.


    Besides the obvious differences in packaging, the Vallejo paint is more viscid; it drops from its bottle in a dollop that holds its shape as opposed to the Reaper, which is more fluid and will spread on the palette more like water. Clearly there is far more fluid (whatever agent that may be) in the Reaper bottles, which makes for more immediate usability than the Vallejo. The Vallejo requires the addition of a substantial amount of water and flow improver (at least equal in part to pigment) to use. You can't paint from the bottle with Vallejo. It would be like painting with oil from the tube or Elmer's glue.


    On the other hand, the Vallejo paint packaging is easy to clean and keep clean. I often find the cap of my Reaper paints gunked up with dried paint skin due to the fact that the paint flows out to the boundaries of the cap unless immediately cleaned off. The addition of a lip along the inner lining of the cap could help to control this to some extent, but I would still prefer dropper bottles.


    A note on dropper bottles: despite the convenience, they aren't always what they're cracked up to be in terms of dispensing paint. I can add just a dab with a brush from a Reaper bottle (and replace paint if necessary) whereas this is more difficult with Vallejo's dropper bottles. Although consistent in dispensing the same amount of paint each time (which mind you is *very* nice), sometimes you want just a bit less that the normal amount (when touching up for instance).


    In terms of colors, I love both lines. Each has some really beautiful hues to choose from. Vallejo does carry a greater variation of shades of each of their colors in the Model Color line than Reaper has at present, but any artist with a modicum of proficiency can easily mix such gradations with their Reaper paints. Just the same, I buy from both lines, sometimes overlapping colors in the process, but I buy with heart and eye, not from a list of colors that I already possess.


    Adhesion: Both lines adhere well. They apply well. They stay put well. Since I usually thin even my Reaper paints, there's little difference to my eye when working with them beyond the extra time (and that's so little at that) required to prep the Vallejos for use.


    All in all, I have no preference of one over the other. Reaper is more readily available to me in my area (I've had to mail order my Vallejos), which gives them an edge. However, were Vallejo just as readily available, it would be a toss up as to what color I happen to be looking for at the time. Were Reaper to switch to dropper bottles, I'll admit I'd be more attracted to their product (I'm really anal about paint skins in my paint -- too many bad experiences with GW paint...). The fluidity of their paints means I can dip and brush to touch up. Not so with Vallejo, which would be more like spackling.


    Hope that helps. Forgive my having waxed on for so long. I like to hear my self talk.  :)


    -The Whiz.

  4. This might be a seperate thread topic but since it's about pinning I'll put it here.


    Do you good people clip your pins THEN put them in the hole or glue the pin then cut? I can't seem to get the right length by the 2nd method.  I ususally end up with a nub that is way to short.

    I put the pin in place but don't glue it. Then, holding it in place with my finger, I line it up next to the second piece it'll be inserted into, gauge the depth of the drilled hole and then clip. If it needs a little more clipping or some filing, I can do it without damaging any of the mini's pieces or fracturing any dried glue and compromising the hold.

  5. Well, I have an idea. They aren't Reaper minis (sorry, gang), but they are darn cool and fit your criteria.


    I'd recommend checking out the Griffon Duelists (#GRVE01) from Rackham's Confrontation line. For about $10 US, you'll get three really great female duelists, each wielding dual swords.


    Here's an example:




    You can find them at Fantization or at (my favorite) The WarStore.


    Hope that helps.



  6. I'm a little late coming into this discussion, but what the heck...


    I, too, have learned the hard way about the perils of the pin vice snapping and embedding in one's finger. Fortunately for me, I discovered (after extracting it from my finger) that the bit had snapped in such a way as to create a very sharp point at the end, which is super useful for starting drill holes with now.   :D   The proverbial silver lining, if you will....

  7. Zaragopha,


    Good luck with that!  :)  And I mean that earnestly. I've always wanted to try my hand at sculpting as well but just don't have the time to commit to it (heck--I don't have the time to paint as much as I'd like). I wish you all the best.


    I'd also recommend that you check out some sculpting classes at a local college if one's available. You'd probably pick up some good knowledge and skills there as well.

  8. Reaper, How about making Alien monsters and Biological vehicles for your CAV game?


    From the Blackest depths of the cosmos or possibly beyond, They have come. Unlike the sane races races of the galaxy in all ways. Entities whose raw psyckic power can liquify a pilot in her mecha from beyond the range of her best guns. Served by nightmarish beasts with bodies that rival CAV's in size and power. Some come through space in living moons, others plunge through the void by thier own power and the worst rip through the fabric of reality.  They are absorbing the technology and those they defeat, tainting them, making them their own.


    The screams of thier victims flood your datalink, drowning out HQ, they are coming...

    I'm sold on this alone and I don't even play CAV!

  9. Word in one, Whiz.  I couldn't have put it better myself.  

    Thanks, Anne. You're very kind, but I can't take any credit.


    Truth to tell, everything I shared here was first learned by listening to you, Jen Haley, Inge Jensen, and others over on that *other* mini site and then simply applying it....


    Well, OK. The patience I learned on my own (after several bouts of anguish and despair...   :)  ) That I'll take credit for.


    On another note: A pictorial would make for a great tutorial.... Would that be a pictorial tutorial?  Hmm....   :D  So many people talk about what thinned paint would look like, but a picture is worth... well... a cliche.   :)

  10. I, too, am working on mastering this technique. And, while I am by no means an expert, I believe I can offer some insight to some of your problems, Jerry.


    First of all, I have found layering to be an exercise in patience. A cloak that my have taken me a half hour or so to drybrush or wet-blend now takes over an hour or more to layer. The results, however, are worth it IMO (and who among us can't use a little practice being patient?)


    Next: The use of thin paint is crucial. If the paint is too thick it'll leave hard transitions. My paints are generally as thin and watery as a wash when I layer -- maybe even thinner. To judge the consistency, I use the following technique: My palette is generally covered in dried paint. When mixing a paint for layering, I know I'm ready to paint when I can see the old paint beneath the puddle of new paint at the edges or within mixing brush strokes.


    To overcome the flooding you've spoken of, you're going to have get accustomed to using very little paint on your brush. Painting like this will sometimes make you feel like you haven't even left any paint on the surface. Don't despair. Just keep adding and you'll see the highlights build. Again, this can take a long time. Patience will carry you a long way.


    I would also advise you to use a good brush - red sable at the very least, Kolinski if you can manage it. A good brush will make this exercise infinitely easier by retaining paint within a sharp point.


    With any luck, some of our masters will speak up and offer even more insights, but for now, this is what I've learned. Hope it helps.



  11. I noticed that Krylon did change their logo and label as well. In fact, I have three different labels for primer alone on my shelf.


    Here's what the latest (the newest according to my estimates) reads in regard to sanding:


    --Light sand with 220 grit sandpaper for smooth topcoat.

    --Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer KO1317 and Black Primer KO1316 can be wet sanded for maximum smoothness.


    Hope that helps.

  12. What's with the loin cloth, Reaper folks? ;) You have the females hanging out of thier outfits but a Demon lord has modesty? ;p

    No kidding! I'm always amused at the lengths male trolls, orcs, bugbears, kolbolds and other humanoids will go to to cover themselves when their female counterparts are swinging in the breeze. Very amusing. Only once have I seen an appropriately attired (or unattired as it were) humanoid monster miniature -- a lizardman my buddy in High School had. I have no idea where he got it and I have *never* seen the like of it since. Thousands upon thousands of miniatures I have browsed and not a one nude male. Though I should note, this lizardman had reason to advertise.  :D


    A thousand legs? Sound cool! How about a goat with a thousand young?


    Now you're talking!!  :)

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