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Whizard Hlavaz

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Posts posted by Whizard Hlavaz

  1. Ironworker: I'm with you, I think, in saying "H3LL NO!"

    Ditto that.


    In fact, the vast majority of my vast collection of miniatures (I, admittedly, am a miniature glutton) never see game play. They're more for my sole enjoyment. Mine! Mine! Mine!

  2. I'm a Krylon user for a number of reasons -- I've enjoyed smooth, even results; they have a number of different products so I can prime white, gray, or black; and they're pretty inexpensive. However, one attribute of Krylon primer that I *really* appreciate is how well it strips off a mini when dipped in a brake fluid bath.


    Now you wouldn't think the ease in which a primer comes off a mini would be a desirable trait, but, if you're anything like me, every now and then a mini has to take the plunge, and when they do, I'm always psyched that the primer just lets go -- clean and hassle free.


    And, contrary to what you may surmise based on this trait, I've *never* had Krlyon rub off a mini I have painted and sealed. In fact, even during production, I've found Krylon clings to the metal better than GW, Armory, or any other primer I've tried to date. I can only guess that the chemical composition of the Krylon primer, while durable and resistant to removal otherwise, is more susecptible to the brake fluid and easily breaks down.


    At any rate, I recommend Krylon all around. Think about it the next time you're scraping primer out of chainmail links on your striped mini. You'll be wishing you'd used Krylon.




    --On a side note: you do need to shake the #### out of the can both before AND during priming. My routine is one or two minutes of shaking before hand (on a frequently used can. New cans need more.), a quick spritz on the mini, more shaking, another spritz, more shaking, etc.  And always fire the first spritz away from the mini -- at your back stop or something -- to clear any "junk" and particles from the nozzle and to test consistency.

  3. Well they'll sell well (I think) because they are D&D minis, and the majority of D&D players do not paint (or paint well).

    Sure. I just wonder if the MK will be more appealing and cost effective. Don't know enough about it beyond being able to say "yeech" about the WOTC minis. Not impressed. But, to each...

  4. I don't know that I can agree with those of you who have re-evaluated your position on the D&D minis from WOTC. I'll give you credit for having open minds, that's for sure, but I had a chance to see the pre-order bonus minis from WOTC today (the ones you can choose from if you pre-order the Miniature rulebook) as well as the new Mage Knight minis.  Quite frankly, I honestly have to wonder how Wizards thinks they can compete. Granted, I don't know anything about the pricing for either product, but quite simply the MK figures are lightyears ahead of the WOTC figs in all capacities. Wonder what Wizards was thinking...  :oops:
  5. I wouldn't mind seeing something like "bags of monsters" of the most common type of bad guys. Like a bag of 30 orcs, gobblins, kobolds, skeletons, or zombies.

    Well, you're in luck! A company called something like Twilight Creations does produce a product called "Bag o Zombies."!  It contains something like 100 zombies. I've seen it at my FLGS and LMBO.

  6. OK. Assuming you've already pinned the wings on the mini...Cloth over the wings. Let's see.


    Bearing in mind that I'm not the most proficient sculptor, this is what I would do: layout some of your green stuff between two sheets of wax paper (you may need to oil it to keep it from sticking) and using a rolling pin, flatten out the green stuff so that it's thin like a sheet of cloth. Next, I would size and shape it into a square swatch with an exacto. Finally, I would drape it over the wings while corrugating it into folds so that it hangs like the sleeves of a cloak.


    Is that what you had in mind?


    Now then, again, I'm not the most proficient sculptor, but this may work for you. Others will hopefully chime in with their expertise.


    Good luck.



  7. And if I may ask as well, given that this thread stands in-hand with my "free-hand" thread, could I please beg those of you with common patterns to post examples whenever possible?


    I'd really like to get some more inspiration for my flailing, failing, fledgling attempts.  :p


    PS - Enchantra, what's a step-fret?

  8. Welcome, Dirk.


    A little clarification, if you please: Are you attaching wings from another mini? Or are you sculpting them from scratch? What specifically is the problem you're having?


    These details will help us to better answer you.

  9. All right. I think I need a little help.


    Having recently sheared the clamp off of one of my painting lights and having heard nothing but praise for the Ott-lite, I went out shopping for one this weekend and found a nifty posable stand light at Michael's. However, upon learning the price of said light, I nearly choked. $170?!?!  You've got to be kidding me! Will this thing paint my minis for me? Is it the light of heaven? What?


    So, quite discouraged (I'm willing to shell out a lot of money for my hobby, but nearly $200 for a light seemed too much -- most of my furniture cost less than that!) I returned home to search for the same light online. Unfortunately, $170 seems to be the going price.


    And so, I turn to you good people. Can anyone tell me if any deals can be had on these lights? -Or- Has anyone used the incandescent replacement bulbs that Ott-lite offers? I'd really like to get myself one based upon the recommendations that I've read, but I'm not willing to shell out that kind of jing for a light right now. I was banking on something like a $50 price tag.


    Any thoughts?   :oo:



  10. I do add water to either thin the paint a little more or else extend it a bit -- mostly with an eyedropper, sometimes with a big plastic-haired brush.


    I'm afraid I can't help you with the Vallejo products. I don't know anything about them. Sorry. I'll be interested in hearing more from whoever knows anything.


    Anyone have any comparison results between Winsor Newton, Liquitex, and Vallejo extenders and fluid retarders? If so, I'd love to hear about that, too.

  11. I use Winsor Newton Flow Improver and pre-mix a solution of 1:10 (flow improver:parts water). It sits at the ready beside my other painting aids. Once I've mixed my paint on my pallete and have achieved the desired color, I add approximately 3-6 drops of my flow-improver solution from an eyedropper in order to achieve the desired consistency (more if I'm washing). Sometimes I add a drop or two of Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder if I expect to be using a particular mixture over a long period of time.
  12. Very much indebted to you, Kamui!


    As much as it is my intention to buy the texts, some unfortunate car repairs have put off that purchase for some time.  :(   At least now, I'll have the changes on hand!


    Thanks so much for the link!  :D

  13. Thanks all! They've got one mini that I've totally fallen for and I was hoping it would work with the warlord line. I think I'l be OK. :D

    Just one? No offense to our beloved Reaper, but Rackham has a number of pieces that I'm dying for. That fire elemental, for instance. Wow. That's some piece of work.

  14. Something some mini painters do for durability in the final product is they will coat the entire painted mini in gloss sealant first, then recoat the mini in matte sealant.

    I do this; it works well and it seems to give me a good solid seal that resists casual damage.

    Do you find this necessary even if you've been spritzing the mini with sealant all throughout painting?


    I'm wondering as I've heard a lot of recommendations to spray the mini during production lately, and it seems very reasonable. Indeed, it seems like sage advice. I wonder at what point does another coat become overkill? Anyone have any thoughts?


    PS -- Using a variety of varnishes after dull-coting is one of my favorite tricks. I like the look I get when mixing gloss and semi-gloss and matte finishes. Liquidtex makes some nice brush on varnishes for this. Just becareful if ever using them on unsealed paint. Only brush over an area once. Otherwise, you could lift the paint beneath. Bright, prime colors, especially, seem susceptible to running.

  15. Thanks, Aryanun.


    I use a magnifying headpiece, but have grown unhappy with it. Time to order the Mageyes someone recommended. They look like just the trick.


    At any rate, I told you all I'd keep you posted, so here it is: My poor fiery urn was remanded to the Brake Fluid dip this evening for the second time. Oh, well. You win some, you lose some. Tomorrow's another shot.


    Just the same... Ho-hum. Don't you hate it when you blow a nearly finished piece?  :glare:

  16. All good tips, folks. Thanks a lot. I'm still struggling with the creation of designs on paper, but keeping the faith. I'll have to look into reference materials as well. A tattoo book -- now that's a fine idea. Probably plenty of Celtic and Tribal designs just ripe for the picking.


    I'll keep you posted with how I do with this...

    And NMM...

    And directed light...


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