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Kilazar

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About Kilazar

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  1. One thing to note, when you apply the color in all situations listed above, it looks right as it's applied. It's when you put the model down and come back to it later after it's had time to dry that you notice the issues in my test's. thats how I managed to damage so many models. I was factory painting and everything seemed hunky dorry until the next day when I came back to work on a different color.
  2. Ok recieved new paints directly from Reaper. Test's are as follows Deep Red - No addatives. on black printer = Goes on correct color, but leaves brush strokes. On messed up models from previous red. Goes on better and close to the right color as long as brush is loaded well. If brush load starts to wayne it starts to apply in the lighter color. Again does not go on smooth. This is however better than the last bottle. Deep Red - Flow Improver - 3-1 On messed up models = still no good, dries in the really light color that previous bottle did, but no brush strokes. Can build up the color to a semblance of the deep red with multiple applications while slightly wet, though when all layers finaly dry the model is blotchy some light patches some dark patches. But even and smooth. On black primer - goes on uneven, but the right color for the first application. Attempts to layer are varied. If you let it dry and then apply another thin layer instead of darkening it lightens. If you do it while the layer is still slightly wet and dark colored then you can build up the color. Still get some of the blotchy when dry on the layering but not quite as bad. May have been due to more layers or a better loaded paint brush. Note, the flow improver is also a brand new bottle directly from Reaper. Deep red - Flow improver 5-1 On messed up model - Still similar results, but some differences. I can wet (slightly wet, not fully wet) build this one up to the red it is supposed to be with alot less blotchyness. but the blotches are still there. Going to take ALOT of time to repair the damage to my marines, but I beleive I can with this mix. Only problem now is keeping it from drying too fast while in the pallete.. will play with adding drying retarder (also new bottle) tomorrow On black primer - Builds up same as above, but is easier to get to a near perfect eveness of color and surface. though you have to watch the paint dry and if you start to see the lighter color appear you have to apply another layer. If you leave the layers to dry you are essentialy working with the "on messed up model" situation above. At this point I am really hoping something is wrong with the blend from the manufacturer cause painting like this is going to take forever. Or am I just doing something wrong?
  3. Yes, I get the lighter color without thinning the paint or with thinning the paint. Even with a new bottle. I have found that about 5 minutes of super vigorous shaking aleviates it for smaller work (like a space marine) but any area larger than say a half inch swatch on like a tank, I have to super saturate my brush in order to do. And even then the edges where the paint has been spread thin tend to go on that really light color. Found my brick red does it too. That bottle is also new. I do have a new order of brick red and deep red coming in this week directly from you guy's instead of from my LGS. Maybe the pots I got from the LGS were just sitting around waaaay too long. At this point I can repair my marines. But I can't thin the paint to do it so it's leaving brush strokes on them. And this bothers me. I really hope the new bottle is better. I'm still not sure how to fix my predator other than starting over from black prime and just choosing a different color. Again, we shall see how the new bottles fair. Also, I'd like to give a huge thanks to everyone trying to help in this thread. I can't bring my self to strip them and start over cause the figs lose too much detail so repairing the current paint, or tossing them and buying all new figs are my only real options. The loss of detail from the strip would bug me way to much for me to ever get back around to repainting.
  4. I'll give what you said a shot tonight when I get home. What exaclty is the cause of the water dilution issue? Is it just diluting the pigment too much where as the other additives don't dilute as much?
  5. Well I'm past the airbrush stage, with the airbrush medium in is it cool to brush paint and get the same application? The reason I ask is cause alot of work has already whent into them. I got the guns and icons all painted and I'm worried that if I just go back to base coat and start over that I'm going to be dulling my detail out. So at this point I would like to just touch up the area's that are applied wrongish.
  6. Yes that is what it is doing, though it's coming out a bit lighter for me. And I'm not useing any water. My results have been with the paint straight out of the bottle. I get a bit of a darker shade if I mix some drying dehydrator and the pp mixing medium at 1/1/1. But it's still not as dark as I'm used to the deep red being.
  7. Hard to tell with the grey since it's not a really contrasting difference, but I think maybe it looks close. The front looks like the color is washed out and lighter, while the back of your model looks solid. The problem with the deep red is it's a huuuuuuuuge difference. Thanks for being willing to test for me.
  8. Well the airbrush was just cut with water, about 50/50. But after that no cutting when re applying to my test model that came out fine. I did find that if I use the reaper drying dehydrator, and the Privateer press mixing medium at a 1/1/1 ratio, I could put on thinner layers and build up to a almost not bad color of the red without losing details. But it still does not come out anywhere near the test model, or anywhere near the other models I have painted with this color in the past. With the test primed modle. I did no cutting at all either and the color after tons of layers still comes out lighter than many of my other models I have painted with this color over this primer in the past. It makes no sense to me that one model will come out fine and nothing else will. *edit* No this bottle is a new one. But the "old" bottle was used on the test pallete model, and on 3 or 4 of the models with the issue before purchasing a new bottle. The old bottle was kinda old though. Thats what prompted the replacement. I will see if I can get pictures tonight when I get home. though I am not good at taking them so they may not help. One additional question, do you think room temperature can have a drastic effect on the pigment? I keep my house at 68 degree's. But when I originally did the airbrush the room temperature was probably about 70 to 71.
  9. What the title says, my reaper Deep red is turning pinkish after applied over the top of a previous layer of the same color! More details. I am painting Blood Angels, and going with a darker scheme, so I airbrushed deep red over a flat black primer. The color came out perfect. After that was done I picked one marine out and used him as my pallet to find out exactly what my entire scheme was going to be. I did a little touch up with the deep red, then inked him with badaab black. Re applied the deep red in progressive 90, and 80% coverage. And it came out perfectly fine. Each step allowed for the previous applications to dry completely So I started painting the rest of my crew with the deep red doing factory style touch up to hit the spots I missed with the airbrush. And the paint is chalking on the other dudes while my test marine is still perfect! It applies and looks fine wet, and even when it first dries it looks the same shade. But after about 5 minutes of drying it is a really light almost dark pinkish shade like it was a red chalk. Why is it doing this? It is really driving me crazy, and the worst part is I did not notice it was doing this until I got around to applying more colors on the rest of my 30 marines. Please tell me I can fix this and I don't have to strip and start over. Also just to make sure it was not just those marines, I went over to my rhino that was airbrushed the same way, and did a quick swath of paint. Same results. So I picked up a flat black primed termy and tried applying the deep red. It went on very thin and I had to build it up in layers, but the full pigmented layer came out a very subdued lightish red instead of the deep red color that the paint dries into on my pallet. I tried a new bottle and same results. The new bottle was purchased last week. *edit* Can someone fix my title please, it was supposed to be deep red!
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