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About Kilazar

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  1. One thing to note, when you apply the color in all situations listed above, it looks right as it's applied. It's when you put the model down and come back to it later after it's had time to dry that you notice the issues in my test's. thats how I managed to damage so many models. I was factory painting and everything seemed hunky dorry until the next day when I came back to work on a different color.
  2. Ok recieved new paints directly from Reaper. Test's are as follows Deep Red - No addatives. on black printer = Goes on correct color, but leaves brush strokes. On messed up models from previous red. Goes on better and close to the right color as long as brush is loaded well. If brush load starts to wayne it starts to apply in the lighter color. Again does not go on smooth. This is however better than the last bottle. Deep Red - Flow Improver - 3-1 On messed up models = still no good, dries in the really light color that previous bottle did, but no brush strokes. Can buil
  3. Yes, I get the lighter color without thinning the paint or with thinning the paint. Even with a new bottle. I have found that about 5 minutes of super vigorous shaking aleviates it for smaller work (like a space marine) but any area larger than say a half inch swatch on like a tank, I have to super saturate my brush in order to do. And even then the edges where the paint has been spread thin tend to go on that really light color. Found my brick red does it too. That bottle is also new. I do have a new order of brick red and deep red coming in this week directly from you guy's instea
  4. I'll give what you said a shot tonight when I get home. What exaclty is the cause of the water dilution issue? Is it just diluting the pigment too much where as the other additives don't dilute as much?
  5. Well I'm past the airbrush stage, with the airbrush medium in is it cool to brush paint and get the same application? The reason I ask is cause alot of work has already whent into them. I got the guns and icons all painted and I'm worried that if I just go back to base coat and start over that I'm going to be dulling my detail out. So at this point I would like to just touch up the area's that are applied wrongish.
  6. Yes that is what it is doing, though it's coming out a bit lighter for me. And I'm not useing any water. My results have been with the paint straight out of the bottle. I get a bit of a darker shade if I mix some drying dehydrator and the pp mixing medium at 1/1/1. But it's still not as dark as I'm used to the deep red being.
  7. Hard to tell with the grey since it's not a really contrasting difference, but I think maybe it looks close. The front looks like the color is washed out and lighter, while the back of your model looks solid. The problem with the deep red is it's a huuuuuuuuge difference. Thanks for being willing to test for me.
  8. Well the airbrush was just cut with water, about 50/50. But after that no cutting when re applying to my test model that came out fine. I did find that if I use the reaper drying dehydrator, and the Privateer press mixing medium at a 1/1/1 ratio, I could put on thinner layers and build up to a almost not bad color of the red without losing details. But it still does not come out anywhere near the test model, or anywhere near the other models I have painted with this color in the past. With the test primed modle. I did no cutting at all either and the color after tons of layers still co
  9. What the title says, my reaper Deep red is turning pinkish after applied over the top of a previous layer of the same color! More details. I am painting Blood Angels, and going with a darker scheme, so I airbrushed deep red over a flat black primer. The color came out perfect. After that was done I picked one marine out and used him as my pallet to find out exactly what my entire scheme was going to be. I did a little touch up with the deep red, then inked him with badaab black. Re applied the deep red in progressive 90, and 80% coverage. And it came out perfectly fine. Each step allowed
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