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Everything posted by captainpost

  1. No worry, we have a reputation for being pretty nice and not cannibalizing new visitors. It's a content-driven community, not a seniority-driven one. No matter if you've been here ten years or ten minutes, we encourage people to jump in and share their stuff. What the Goblin said! A little more highlighting, even if it's just a drybrush over the beard and leather, will go a long way to making even a tabletop figure look awesome, as you said. What paints are you using, and I can make some quick suggestions on how to help with the highlighting. I use Vallejo and a few other techniques to achieve my shades/highlights, so if we can help there we'd be glad to :) And to the Dwarf: How big is the Mantic dwarf in comparison to a Reaper dwarf (a la the Kickstarter). Are they smaller, or are they any larger. I'm thinking about getting abyssal dwarves, but mostly for RPG on 25mm bases, so I want to make sure what I need to do. Sorry I haven't checked the site in a few days. But the figures come with 20mm square bases. I believe they are roughly the same height. But I could be wrong. You might have to ask someone on the mantic forums. They would know much more.
  2. Thank you everyone for the advice and compliments. He will be part of an army so not much more will be done to him. But highlights should help on the beard,leather and Gold areas as suggested. I just need to get better at highlighting. I'm still not very good at leather or metal highlights. The cape took a while so I'm glad people think it's good. And yes it's a mix of bad lighting and dark paint that is making the front so dark. I'll try better next time.
  3. This is my first show off post to the site so go easy lol. Nothing special just thought I would put it up to see what people think. Suggestions or tips are encouraged.
  4. Thanks Jen, you are always so helpful. when I was talking about grainy look I was using a black wash. I guess from what I've read about using that type of wash it causes that grainy look a lot. I'm gonna try and stay away from the black wash technique and go for more layering and then glaze technique with actual paint colors. and see if that works for me. I'm still "kinda" new to this miniature painting thing. and I'm going through the trial and error phase of it lol. I'm trying multiple techniques to see which one works best for me. now of course the black wash technique works for many people. but so far I don't like the results I'm getting with it. so again Thank you Jen and all others who have offered advice and tips. Charles Post
  5. Thank you to all that have given advice. I haven't seen anyone suggest washes. so I am assuming I should just learn to shade and highlight with thin layers of paint for the best overall look? because whenever I try to shade using a wash of paint or ink they always come out grainy. I guess I will just have to take my time and do layers on the single miniatures and use speed painting techniques (Washes/glazes) for my armies. Thanks again for all the great advice.
  6. I have been using the MSP line for a little while now and I am trying to understand how the triad system is supposed to work. Is it base coat with middle color then wash with shadow color then highlights? or base coat with shadow color and highlight up from there? cause I am not getting the right contrast in the end result. any help would be appreciated.
  7. Thank you for the encouragement. I'm gonna need it lol. I already tried once and had to strip the paint off. I'm gonna get a bit more experience in before trying again. it is just a bit to far from my current painting level. I am completely new to the NMM's. I bit off more than I could chew with this one lol. but I will try again once I get a few more minis under my belt. Thanks again.
  8. Midnight you are awesome. The links are exactly what I was looking for. They explain all the colors used for the armor. Many Thanks, Charles
  9. I have been trying to figure out what colors were use for the display model of Alistrilee Elf Archer in the store page. http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/elf%20archer%20female/sku-down/03166#detail/03166_Alistrilee_ds_f I have used the power palette here on the website and can't get a match on the colors. in particular I'm looking for the colors used for her armor. any help would be much appreciated.
  10. yeah I agree. I ended up painting 2 large splotches of Griffon tan and Woodland brown on white paper. so there is a difference. I can see that now. because I made the comparison splotches so large. but they are still a little to close in color. the color swatch on the box and website isn't even close to what griffon tan really looks like.
  11. hmmm I never thought of that. I will have to get some and try it out. Thanks
  12. I got the 2 box sets of HD MSP"s a few weeks ago. and was wondering how close in color was griffon tan supposed to be to woodland brown. cause when I used them for the first time yesterday I noticed they are both looking like woodland brown. in other words the griffon tan I got looks exactly like woodland brown. there is no difference in color from what I can tell. I have used ott lites and regular bulb lights to check for a difference in color and can't see one. could I have gotten a bad griffon tan?
  13. Thank you for the advice. I will try to do less paint on the brush and thin the paint 1 to 1. oh and what is the Shaded Metallic technique? I tried looking it up with google and can't seem to find it.
  14. ok I have searched the forums and can't find a topic on this. so my question is how are we supposed to dilute the metal paints from the MSP line? I have been trying to use the gold triad and am finding that the paint separates after about a minute. and I can never get it to be the right consistency again no matter how much I mix or stir. especially ancient bronze. when it separates it turns redder and when I mix it on the pallet(dry or wet pallet) it seems to get darker with each separation. and I can never get it back to the way it was out of the bottle. I have tried plain purified water, water with future floor wax and water with flow improver and all do the same thing. is this how all the metal paints work? or am I just using them wrong? also I can never find the right mix of paint to water. it is either to thick with brush stroke lines or so thin it acts as a wash. any suggestions would be helpful. along with any mix ratios and how to use tips for metal paints in the MSP line of paints.
  15. I want to ask something. how are the dropper bottle supposed to work? is there a hole in the middle of the nozzle all the way through? or does the paint go up the sides of the nozzle to tiny holes to come out the top? I have had a few MSP dropper bottles that were clogged I thought. but when I cleaned out the nozzle and looked there was no tiny hole in the bottom of the nozzle. when I tried to squeeze paint out it would go up the 2 sides on the inside of the nozzle but not come out. Then I used a paper clip and was able to poke a hole all the way through. now they work. but is that the way they are supposed to function?
  16. Thank you for clearing that up for me. now I just have to save a little more;)
  17. This might be a stupid question but I wanted to know if the "pro paint set 3" was a complete set of all the new pro paints? in other words are all 108 pots included the new formula? or is it a mix of old and new?
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