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Everything posted by Cyradis

  1. Thanks! All fixed. Granted all a kid needs to do is open a monster manual at a bookstore to find similar, but better safe than sorry.
  2. Thanks! I was hesitant about the skin since it was so very matte finish, which is a good thing but most skin has some oils. First time painting bare breasts too (Should I have put that as a link instead? Some of the forums don't like that...) which was interesting. They seem normally boob-like :D
  3. Can't recall the spelling the Reaper naming peoples gave this one, but by monster manual standards, she is a marilith. Just finished her! She's slightly eccentric, but I'm pleased with how she turned out. I want to paint another one after a while once I have more tools and practice, since I think I can improve still and she's a good test of that. I don't have the tiny files needed to get rid of the molding lines on a character like her currently, but someday.... Enough chat, here she is! Picture didn't capture all I wanted, due to lighting etc. That and I use gloss to highlight some things like gems, which can't be seen properly in a photo (green gems in a sword etc). NSFW Pic http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=31665444&l=741ca9cc14&id=1162564578
  4. No remote control, but it does have a timer I can use. The pressing button unsmoothly has messed up many a picture for sure. Will have to figure out how to use the timer, but good thing my friend has same camera and knows how. Will nag him about that for next photoshoot.
  5. The citadel paints are made to be used from the pot, but can be thinned as needed. I just got my Reaper paints during this thread and a few new figures (a few to challenge myself a bit too, yay!). For general coating they don't seem to need thinning yet, although they do better than the Citadel ones if I have a wetter brush to begin with. Haven't started lining with them yet, since I'm working on the skin of my 6 armed demon woman. Perhaps I'll attempt to give her a tattoo. I have some of the better brushes which I can open up, but once I do I'll have to keep them specifically for lining only since my coating brushes tend to fray a bit (damn chainmail). Another thing I noticed in the half hour I've been applying skin to this demon, it doesn't need a second coat as often as the Citadel ones. Those have mixed results - some colors can go straight on, others need multiple thin layers. In lack of palette, I'm using the mini's plastic boxes for drop-paints. I feel like such a ghetto painter now! Once again, thank you all. I'll pop some pictures up when I get the chance to experiment with the tips :)
  6. Seems like I caught the right bunch of people to ask questions. Next shopping spree: Brushes palettes soaps... and more paints. Thanks, all!
  7. Will do. Shouldn't be too tricky to set up. Thank you once again :)
  8. I recommend that you get a Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Series 7 Miniature, a da Vinci Maestro Series 10, or the equivalent Rafael brush (sorry, I've never bought Rafael), in a #0, #1, or #2. Dick Blick has good prices, generally around $8-14 for any of those*, and their service is excellent. You could also pick up a small well palette or wet palette and brush soap from the same source. FWIW, I strongly prefer a wet palette, but opinions definitely vary on that issue. * If that sounds high, you need to know that you will save money even in the medium term by buying a good brush and taking care of it. Good brushes can last for years (I've been using my current da Vinci for 3 years now); bad brushes last for a couple of painting sessions. As long as it lasts a good long while, it isn't bad at all. Will definitely snag some brush soap too, since my current brush care scheme is sloshing it in water, and occasionally using dish soap. Least these brushes don't have to put up with the old enamel and thinner I used to use. Will go online hunting for those ones, thank you. :)
  9. Thank you very much, that is an excellent link. I think my pink lamp may even be enough if I can set up one of those boxes! Eventually I found the Macro and Supermacro setting on my camera (no control in Supermacro but it focuses in closer it seems) but it took a bunch of cellphone quality pictures before I tried mucking with it. Like I mentioned, I am BAD with electronic devices. Won't get the longer exposures with the digital camera, unless there is a setting for that too. I can get a stable surface for the camera at least, as I know that it is sensitive even without the long exposures.
  10. Thank you guys very much. Yes this particular figure I didn't clean up quite ideally, as you saw on the axe and mace. Pleased with her overall, but there is room to improve. My matron's book used a pen, the dwarf took a brush as I discovered that pens dislike writing on metallics, but do not mind matte. I have been in the habit of not using a ton of paint, I tend to twirl the brush on my newspaper to make it fine and not gloppy. Guess tiny brush can be set aside for spot stuff and fine shading then. Would certainly explain my freehand troubles! I feel like I'm going to need to do more shopping for this new stuff. I do my thinning on my newspaper which works only for brief amounts of time as the paper soaks up the water, so I'll need a palette, and I'll have to go seek some brushes! For a nice long lasting brush for freehanding, what would be the price range to expect? The college bookstore has a decent art supply selection, but is mixed on reasonable to ungodly prices.
  11. Fieldarchy, thanks for the idea on starting freehand - I've been wondering about that, and posted a "help with detailing" thread in the Painting Tips section. Most I've done is freehand the word "Badass" onto a mace so far!
  12. I've been painting for a while, and recently got a picture onto the Inspiration Gallery (teal cloaked archer) but I still feel that picture wasn't really as good as I could get a picture, if I knew how to better use my camera. Or for that matter, make a setup! The background on that one used two of my D&D tiles, one of which was propped up for the back. I tried a plain beige pillowcase but that didn't work quite as well it seemed. I had my kitchen light, a bright small lamp directed at-level to him, and a small underpowered lamp on his opposite side. He is overall represented well, but the face is a little blurry as it is a bit further back in the photo. My camera is an Olympus FE-340 with 8 megapixels. I'm an electronics noob and I tend to break anything that has current running through it. Any ideas on setups for both camera and background for future pictures?
  13. I've been painting for a while on and off, ~7 years. Started with enamel paints, and while I love the effects they give, they're too tricky to shake, open, and lastly, smell for too long (thinner eww). Switched to acrylics now that I'm in college, and trying to challenge myself. I can do shading, I can paint the iris and pupil on eyes, and fill in every detail that the figure is given by its mold. What I'd like to learn is how to get consistent details that I add myself, such as print on the fabrics, or a crest on an otherwise blank banner. I've seen some amazing things in the showcase gallery and I think eventually I can get that strong on the painting, but I need some tips to get going! I have a few super fine tip pens I've been using for some things, like small spots, and occasionally eyes or writing. Otherwise my best small brush is a 20/0. I use Citadel paints (and got some Reaper ones coming in the mail any day now). My best writing on a figure would be on these two figures. Not best pic quality, but the writing is visible. I put some friends' names in the brother matron's book, and wrote "BADASS" on the little dwarf fighter's mace, because she seemed to want it.
  14. Don't try white gloss - I had an imp with a potion bottle, and it ended up looking like he was the "Got Milk?" imp! Cute and hilarious but not the effect I wanted!
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