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althai's Achievements

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  1. Wow, she’s really looking good now with the yellow light. That lighting effect really pops, and you did a great job on the face. I only have a few final suggestions. First, if you want to neaten up things a bit, particularly around all the bits-and-bobs she has on her belt, dark lining is your friend. Second, the way the lantern is, it wouldn’t be shining too much light below it, so I would add more shadows to the bottom of the staff, the snake, and especially inside her sleeve. Finally, that blade on her belt could be reflecting some lantern light to make it look shinier. Try to keep those reflections thin, just small edge highlights, since it's fairly far from the light source. Here's an example I made. I used a purplish color for the dark lining so it would be easy to see the effect, but a bluish color would work equally well.
  2. Hi Will- Really like how much energy you are putting into this model and WIP thread. You're clearly trying to do a really good job on this model, and it shows. You asked for a critique, but many of the things I would suggest you already have on your to-do list. In particular, my main suggestions would be: 1. 2. Since you have put so much time into the face already, I have a few more suggestions for it, in addition to smoothing the shadow on the cheek: 1. I think the white on both eyes extends a bit too far down. I would remove some from below by repainting the lower line with your dark eye socket color, and then repainting some of the skin of the lower eyelids. You should be able to do this without messing up your great work on the pupil/iris. 2. I think you should have a bit more shadow around the nose, both on the bottom and on the far side from the light source. 3. You could benefit from more shadows generally, especially on the neck, hair, around the face. Here's a rough example sketch from the "markup" feature on my phone. For making the OSL effect work better, I think you would benefit from a lot more shadows everywhere the light from the lantern wouldn't reach, such as her entire back, and the entire left side of her body. For example, I would do something like this with the back of her robe: In addition to making everything darker, shading the bottom of the sleeves would help provide better visual separation between the sleeves and skirt. I would also leave some light on the top of the far sleeve, but not as much as the sleeve under the lantern, to portray the environmental light. Other elements can be shaded and highlighted more like I'm showing with her robe, in order to sell the OSL effect more strongly. Looking forward to seeing how she turns out!
  3. Since the piece does contain some nudity, I'm only showing back/side views here to respect the forum rules. More angles are available at my website, https://www.lightminiatures.com/come-back-to-me-my-love/. I also have a bit of a backstory and a LOT of work-in-progress photos of both the painting and some of the sculpting work I did for the resurrection effect and other parts of the diorama. It's definitely worth checking out. :) For anyone who was at ReaperCon and didn't get a chance to check out the booklet (I know how cons can be), the blog post is basically the same thing. The main figure is 03784: D’Vandra Lukesia by Bobby Jackson. The resurrection effect is constructed using 03639: Bella, Succubus by Patrick Keith, and Secret Weapon’s skeleton kit. Everything else is scratchbuilt out of putty, plastic card, parchment paper, cork tile, and wire, apart from two resin vases I got from somewhere I can't remember. If you have any comments, questions, or constructive criticism, that is always welcome!
  4. Very nice work on the lighting, it looks great! The one thing I would suggest, other than the points you mentioned, is to bring up the highlights on the face a bit more. As Mathieu Fontaine always says in his classes, you must focus the face!
  5. First of all, I think the effect of the strong blue light is great. Subtlety in miniature scale isn't always the best idea, as effects which are too subtle just don't read until you're examining the mini from 10 inches away. I'm curious how it will look once the lantern light is added as well. If you did want to make the light from the blue flames more subtle than it is now, I don't think it would be too hard to bring some flesh tones back into the face without repainting it. Just use a fine brush and thin paint, and highlight the areas you would normally highlight (nose, cheeks, chin, lower part of forehead) with thin glazes of your flesh color. Don't think of it as reducing the light from the flame, instead think about adding more ambient light back into the scene. I don't think this is needed at all, just pointing it out as an option if you're not happy with the mini now.
  6. Glazing will not really give you a mottled appearance. For that, you should try "stippling": repeatedly jab at your mini with the end of your brush, using slightly thinned paint. Preferable, use an old brush which doesn't hold a good tip any more. Basically you want to make a bunch of small dots. This gives you a mottled appearance. You can highlight and shade by using a lighter color to stipple in the highlight areas and a darker color to stipple in the shadow areas.
  7. AFAIK Vallejo has always put cadmium in its paints, and they never used to label them. And "non-toxic" is a joke. I've literally seen cadmium red pigment labeled non-toxic, emailed the seller to protest, and been told to go shove it. I wouldn't trust any paint line not to contain heavy metals, unless you've seen a statement from someone who actually worked on the paint recipes that it does not.
  8. Oh, sorry, forgot to include that. It's a conversion based on the old model for Fiona the Black, and the satyxis sea witch.
  9. When you say the seatbelt is matte, do you mean you want to paint it so the seat belt appears matte, or you want to use matte paints? When painting black in miniature, I recommend trying to represent a glossy black, so that you can go quite strong with the highlights and really bring out the shape. In miniature, you really need strong contrasts to be able to see detail at that scale, and there's no good way to do this with black and have it appear matte. On the other hand, if you go for a shiny appearance, you can go quite strong with the contrast (even having fine line highlights that go all the way to pure white) and still have things appear black.
  10. Looks really good to me. The only suggestion I can make from this picture is maybe some smoke at the ends of her hair, similar to how you did the smoke tendrils. However, the picture's a bit small, making it hard to pick out the details. If you post a bigger pic I can try to offer some better critiques.
  11. I posted this figure in the WIP forum to ask for critiques, and the critiques I received help me improve her a lot. Before I was really unhappy with how the figure was looking, and now I'm really happy with how she came out. I may still tweak some things, as she's for a painting competition and I still have a month to make changes. If you have any other critiques, I'd love to hear them! In order to be friendly to people on phones or other slow internet connections, especially given the large number of pics, all pictures are small compressed jpgs that link to higher-resolution, higher quality versions of the same image. The figure represents Fiona the Black, and is a conversion based on the old Fiona model and the satyxis sea witch. As always, comments, questions, and constructive criticism are welcome and encouraged!
  12. If you use a certain shade of red with a certain shade of green and those are the main colors, it's pretty much impossible to not be reminded of christmas, so if that's not what you want, you probably shouldn't do it. I've painted minis red and green and then had them bug me so much I had to change things. For Fiona, for example, I ended up adding a bunch of blue to the green to keep her from looking too christmasy. You can totally get away with red+green color schemes by tweaking the colors away from christmas colors. But bright red + forest green? Forget it.
  13. Nice job. My 2c: whether you've attached them like the "official" version is irrelevant. People convert their minis or paint them differently all the time, and get great results. I assume you attached the antlers the way you did because you thought it looked right. If you like, you can think of this as a simple conversion. The only thing that matters is are you happy with it, or do you think it would look better if you changed the antlers. But you should make that decision without being biased by how one version did it.
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