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Everything posted by junex

  1. Pics! I was hesitant posting a picture since it's a copied design but my wife pointed out that I wasn't selling them so:
  2. My family owns a small machine shop so I had my own version of the Rathcore design made with a couple of revisions.
  3. I bought Stynylrez's original set of white, black & gray. I only apply it with a paintbrush and I love it. Not as efficient as spray priming but I only prime around 3 or 4 figures at the most in one go anyway. - I prefer light gray. I use around a 3:1 white to gray mixture. - I find any shade between the white and gray, they're light enough that natural shadows make the details easier to see for me. - With thin coats, yeah I can see a difference BUT I've rarely been happy with my color choices and application on the 1st try (sometimes even the 2nd or 3rd) so the layers quickly become opaque enough that effect is gone. So I just stick to light gray. I have tried wet blending the 3 primer colors with a really good zenithal priming but like I said about my layers become opaque eventually so it wasn't worth the extra effort for me. I find it easier to identify where the shadows go now anyway.
  4. I love resin, I know they can be fragile and sometimes the sculpt itself does not help. I buy figures to collect and display. If given an option I'd go for resin unless the sculpt looks really fragile. If metal is not an option I'd still buy it but I'd also buy nice looking bell jar to put it in. I'm still looking for a nice dome jar for one of the my WIPs. I've broken it near the ankle and repaired it 3x since I started on it.
  5. What he said. Life is too short and figures are too inexpensive to paint figures you don't love. I'll echo what both Doug's said. Just go paint what you have, maybe start with your least favorite one but paint the minis you love. When I began painting again I bought a lot of minis some of which I set aside for when I got better at it. Fast forward a few years and with a lot more experience I revisited those minis I was saving. Guess what, I didn't care to paint them anymore. My taste in minis changed or I got better minis since then but either way I wished I painted them when I was excited to paint them. I think what helps me keep getting better is that I love the mini I'm painting.
  6. I know they're supposed to be disposable but I still don't like to throw stuff away when they work so well. So, when I'm done with a particular blister palette I just throw them in a container of Simple Green overnight. The following day I just rinse them off and they're good as new.
  7. Back when I used candy blister packs I used to keep them in a water-tight container at room temperature, they'd last for at least a week before they're too dried up to revive. I was using 3:2 paint to retarder mix. Except for the metallics, they dried up quicker. In the end I ended up just using my Masterson sta-wet handy palette container. I'd just bring out the candy blister palette that I needed and kept the rest inside the container. I also used some 3M removable clear mounting squares on the cover of the container so I can stick the blister palettes on them to prevent them moving around as I loaded my brush or made some on-the-fly mixes. I also had a large rectangular blister pack that fits over the blister palette that I used as a temporary cover in case I had to take a short break to help prevent evaporation. I don't know if it actually helps though.
  8. I have an Anex/Godhand pin vise, I believe it's similar to the Tamiya. (picture from the net, not mine) As you can see on the package can hold from size 0.1mm to 3.2mm. Smallest drill bit I've actually used with it was a 0.3mm (~#83?) I have small hands so I like the rubber sleeve on the barrel when I find it difficult to reach the head.
  9. One of the first I painted back in the early 90's. Took a long break. Decided to paint again, ordered a set of Reaper paints in the middle of 2010. Here's something I did back then: I understood the concept of highlights and shadows but execution was till lacking. Fast forward to now, this is probably one of my current favorites: And a WIP: I've been working on her on and off for a couple of months now. I messed up the initial layers, still trying to fix it.
  10. The local group I used to be a member of is both generous with titles and harsh at the same time. I've been referred to as a master painter, only because I can paint better than some of them, and I've also had my skills questioned by people in the same group when some of us offered a FREE painting workshop to anyone interested. I'm sure I don't deserve the former. I was rather proud of my Newbie member title here. I have no idea what level I'd describe myself but I do know that I'm still loving the feeling of sitting down to paint.
  11. One of my currently most used brush is a filbert, a pointed one. Not for drybrushing though. Saw James Wappel using one decided to give it a go. I got a synthetic one so the tip is already ruined but I used it for basecoating.
  12. I'm currently using a no.3 Series 33. My first experience with R&Co brushes wasn't exactly good. That was back when I was still using spotters. I learned that the old Broken Toad brushes were made by R&Co so I ordered a few no.3's. After making a more ergonomic handle (my one complaint is that the handles are too narrow for my taste) it has now become my go to brush. I owe my wife a new highlighter though.
  13. Isn't that how the brain and eyes are supposed to work. No different than looking at something close up and then faraway with your naked eye. I prefer something similar to the Optisight than the Optivisor. I find it less claustrophobic. I would love to try the better quality lenses though.
  14. I guess I'm the poster child of what not to do. :P I paint for around 4 hours almost every night. My brush gets a thorough cleaning maybe once every month or two. However I always try not to load more than hallway up the bristles of my brush. I like using the biggest brush I can get away with, usually a comparable size 2 or 3 of the Series 7. I do rinse often during painting and after the session I give the brushes I used a final rinse i my rinse cup. I only use one rinse cup for both non-metallic and metallic paints, with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. I change my rinse cup water maybe once a week. No noticeable contamination yet.
  15. I have access to mylar sheets up to 0.2mm thick. I was planning to cut several strips and just carpet tape them together to make a thicker stiffer strip.
  16. I don't know if this is helpful but you might find this interesting at least: https://www.facebook.com/aldamodel.peanas/posts/439815932880573 I was planning to make a portable one for painting on the go but I lost interest. I was planning to modify his base design to use either PVC pipes or custom made wood rods plus his strap idea. The strap can be adjustable and the cylindrical base means there would always be a good contact with the surface at any distant apart...in theory anyway.
  17. I have no experience with oil paints but from what I read water-based acrylics + retarder is like really fast drying oils. It might have to do with my painting environment also the size of the area painted and thickness of the layer, even with a 1:1 mixture left alone would be dry in less than an hour at the most. With a hair dryer I can accelerate that to seconds. I don't know if that can be done with oils. So Willen is right, it is the best of both worlds.
  18. One of the first things I read actually which made me think of the fish meds. :)
  19. Depending on the manufacturer's instruction I'm looking at a dosage of 0.03ml (if my math is correct) of the medication (which I'm assuming is already a dilute solution) per liter of water. Copper sulfate is used at around .002gms per liter of swimming pool water as an algaecide. I have to do some more research to figure out which is more, but yeah, better safe than sorry. I think I've successfully weaned myself off of the habit. I've been using a damp sponge as a tongue replacement. All this started when a friend asked if I know where he can get some copper sheets. Some quick research I learned that copper does not dissolve in water, so how can it impart it's antimicrobial properties to our wet palette? Which led me to the aquarium medications.
  20. I have copper wires in my wet palette so it's been a long time since my sponge had molds(?). After probably several weeks of painting though the surface of the sponge starts to become slightly slimy. This usually means it's time to wash the sponge and wet palette. I remembered that some aquarium medication are copper based, specifically those used to treat ich or white spots. Anyone ever try using that in their wet palettes?
  21. I've recently bought a bottle of rubber toughened superglue. Manufacturers claim the shear resistance is increased. I've read reports of hobbyists using them without pinning and joints still hold strong. I still pin though. One downside seems to be shorter shelf life than regular CA.
  22. I also went for the vortex touch mixer, used from ebay. Mine is still in transit. I have to admit though that I had to wait for a particular set-up to be listed at a price I was willing to pay. I got mine for $50 shipped to the US. The one I bought comes with a pop-off cup like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xN4KAO0qBQ edit: found a better video.
  23. The "pykrete" palette I mentioned is more accurately an ice pack palette. I wanted to try an ice palette but being klutzy transporting an ice tray filled with water wasn't appealing. Researching ice packs led me to diy ice packs made from sponge. As the water melts it is retained by the sponge hence less mess. I used that with a flat styrene sheet so I can mix colors much like a wet palette. When I wanted to try welled palettes I turned to super absorbent polymers since it will conform to bottom of a welled palette. Never got around to testing it because it was too much work, I'm not only a klutz but a lazy one. The 4 hour working window per ice pack was manageable by having more than one ice pack set up but the deal breaker for me was that the condensation was not controllable(?). I often take breaks while painting, unfortunately the condensation does not.
  24. Just recently got my Fantasy & Games set. For those who the F&G paints, do they dry satin or am I just not shaking the bottles enough?
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