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Everything posted by junex

  1. Why would he do it his way? Because SCIENCE! Of course. I just wanted to give him an simpler, although I have to admit this is my own opinion, alternative. But if you want a more sciencey alternative, how about pykrete palette. Made one using sponge about 6 mm thick with a sheet of styrene as my palette. Paint remained workable for approximately 4 hours with just the condensation. My next step was to use medicine/gum/candy blister packs and cotton (so it would conform to the bottom of the blister packs) pykrete. Lost interest because it was too much hard work, condensation meant it was hard to control the dilution and freezer space was a premium (the wife would kill me).
  2. An alternative would be to use retarder and keep the welled palette in an airtight container.
  3. Thank you all for the nice compliments! :D @Pingo - The website says it's approximately 33mm tall. @BLZeebub - I mainly use wet-on-wet blending, feathering, glazing and controlled washes. There are a lot of video tutorials on youtube (Painting Buddha for one) & twitch (hysteriayard & Dirty_buger88) of much better painters and teachers than me. I believe they can better explain the techniques. Also I painted this several months ago and I'm not 100% sure I can recall all the paints I used. I used to keep a notebook to jot down the colors I use but then I decided I wanted to learn to match colors by eye (in other words I got lazy). So let me try to reconstruct what colors I used and try to give you an overview of my process. The cartoony/caricature-like appearance is what initially drew me to this figure and the whole fantasy line (currently there are only 6, I think). Which is a contrast to his sci-fi and pulp line. I think all of them were sculpted by Andrew Rae, he did a couple of figures for Reaper as well. I love stumbling onto boutique miniature companies.
  4. I love the look of this mini, in fact I love the whole line. Critiques would be much appreciated. :)
  5. Let me just add my answer to those above: ...liners... I also use this as a controlled wash or added to my previous wash mix as my final shadow. ...wet palette... It does extend the drying time of my paints but at the environment that I paint in my paints still eventually dry out eventually. I've started keeping a chime app on my phone to remind me to check if I should add water every hour. When I use additives that dilutes the paint it usually spread outs everywhere so I started using pill/gum blister packs or any small container in my wet palette so I can dilute as I go instead. I also use the small containers for washes so whenever I cover my wet palette the washes don't dry out either. ...how long do you usually paint for... On the rare occasions I do commissions I try to keep it under 15 hours. I paint for fun and it seems like I love the process more than the actual end product so I tend not to keep track of how long it's taking. For competitions it's usually until the deadline. :) ...How long do you go through paint bottles?... Whenever I see new paints coming out it seems like not fast enough. The RMS Brown and Blue Liners are the only bottles I have extras of and I still haven't used up my original ones which I bought almost 6 years ago. I'm not a very prolific painter. ...sealer... On commission pieces, yeah. My personal collection, not usually. When I do use one I prefer Vallejo's Premium RC Color Matt Varnish. I figured it was designed for rc cars so it should be pretty tough. I apply it by paint brush which when applied too thick can turn it satin. ...essential paints... Dark elf shadow (my go to shadow for most of my sin tones), Brown and Blue Liner (you can get a nice black one by mixing the 2), Linen and Ghost white (for highlights), Army Painter Soft, Strong and Dark tones. ...painter to be a fan of... Depends on the style you want. I suggest looking in Putty&Paint, look for minis you like the style of and look up the painters. ...favorite Reaper mini... It would have to be my avatar, 02967 Alastriel, Elf Sorceress ...decide it's time to stop... Deadline. For the one I paint for fun, I'm still trying to figure that out. If I was to describe my paint style it's "constant correction." And I always find something that needs to be corrected. ...choosing what to paint next... I usually choose something that's the opposite of what I least liked about the last one I finished. ...How many minis...a year... Around 6 - 12. I'm easily distracted. ...cups...to brushes... I bought a 750 ml covered plastic container. I fill it with about 500ml of filtered water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Lots of water means I don't have to change that often. ...distilled water... I use distilled water in my wet palette. That plus the copper wires to hopefully delay starting a civilization in there. ...squirt bottles... +1 on the Reaper bottles. I also like those Nalgene dropper bottles, you'll never loose the cap.
  6. These are sold as "Travel Humidor" cigar tubes. The number of brushes you can store in them depends on the diameter of the handles (IIRC, I can usually fit 6-7 brushes around the same size as a Series 7 #1). I also use them to store my other tools. Not sure on the rules regarding posting ebay links so I'll just pm you the link if you're interested.
  7. I'd also go with option B. Although I don't play with the minis I paint I can understand your POV. The way I'd rationalize option B is if it would be viewed most of the time in that orientation.
  8. Some of my favorite: Figurines TV - Some painting and sculpting tutorials. Most not in English though. Eureka Miniature - Some painting tutorial, not English but the later ones have subtitles. Rogland
  9. HobbySearch's hobby tool section is like a Japanese version of MicroMark. Edit: removed link
  10. I'm probably pointing out the obvious here but one tip I'd like to add is when trying to place paint accurately hold your brush on the ferrule closer to the bristles for better control. You can see Marineal adjust her grip on her video.
  11. I don't know if this is what you meant but I put my wash mix into an empty dropper bottle by itself, without the color/paint/ink. That way I can turn any of my paints into a wash.
  12. I have recently given the Escoda Reserva 1212 a try. Been using it for more than a month now and I am loving it. Bought a few more and the quality looks to be consistent. I know it had a bad review here a couple of years ago and I did find another bad review online. But both reviews had one thing in common, they were purchased from the same store. The ones I got were comparable to my Series 7. I immediately ordered a few more. :D
  13. I usually look up photos online of the mini I'm painting done by other painters and use those as reference to where I should place the highlights. In the absence of reference material or as a quick reminder I sometimes brush on water on the section I'm painting to see where the specular highlights are. Derek Schubert's dwarves are amazing but I ended up studying TaleSpinner's photos more.
  14. Check this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm8PemF652E, I believe the coupon code is still good too. edit: BTW, I mostly used the grey brushed-on and it was great. The white I got had coverage problems. I've only tested the black but performance was similar to the grey.
  15. I found another use for those Masterson palette papers. Took some craft paints, big brushes and sponges...and made my own photo backgrounds. I've all but given up on wet palettes. They don't play well with the AC, paint's still drying up faster than I can use them.
  16. Like Willen, one reason I had for brush licking was spit blending. Now I have a small piece of PVA sponge that's wetter-than-damp near my palette. I find it very useful. A few strokes on it (depends on how much paint I have on my brush) removes most if not all of the paint while leaving my brush damp for blending or removing a stray brush stroke. My tongue analogue. I also have a small sheet of polyethylene foam (same material as foam peanut & pool noodles) I got from the packaging of some crap I bought. The surface texture is similar to skin if I need to test the flow of the dilution. My skin analogue.
  17. I only tried it once and hair is also what I used. The mini wasn't in a firing pose so it was easier. I placed a tiny drop of CA on one end then I attached the hair. I place another drop on the other end, pull the hair taut and attach. Then I cut the excess on both ends. I don't bother tying the "string" since at that scale it shouln't be seen anyway. Haven't tried on a firing figure but I imagine I'd use 2 strands and start attaching at the hand instead of drilling a hole. I only display the figures I paint though so not much handling. But it did break I think it wouldn't be hard to replace.
  18. I've been doing what Ruizu has been doing. For about a couple of years now I stopped using my Masters soap. I'm careful not to allow paint to build up in the hair of my brushes (prevention better than cure), rinse early and often. I also find that at the end of a painting session I just need a final rinse in clean water before keeping them. I maybe clean my brushes maybe once or twice a month with shampoo, then conditioner. My brushes look just as happy now as when I was still using brush soap. I don't even bother with soap for my synthetics. I just wash the bristles with IPA. Of course, like with everything else YMMV.
  19. @Doug Subdseth - Yeah, Iknow what you mean. I've tried the Masterson palette paper and I also think it is designed for heavier bodies acylics. The Daler Rowney though looks just like parchment paper. @ub3r_n3rd - Unfortunately Reynolds isn't available where I am anymore. I have tried it before and I also think it was the best parchment paper I've tried. The paper I'm currently using though hasn't been changed since late last year and I try to paint everyday. So if my math is correct the 12 sheets I bought from Amazon should last me around 10 more years.
  20. I can be aggressive when mixing colors on my palette so baking paper, the ones available locally here anyway, never stands a chance. Then I learned of Daler Rowney palette membrane: The paper is tougher, at the end of a session I can either just wipe the paint off or just bring it to the sink to wash the paper and it's ready for next time. Also no lint. It is pricier though than parchment/baking paper but since I can reuse the same paper for several months I think it's good investment. I think the paint stay wet longer too, maybe too wet sometimes. I don't even cover my palette because when I comeback to it it's usually a kaleidoscope mess. I know it's not what your asking about but I thought you might find it interesting.
  21. I was aiming for realism with a dash of cartoony because it looked cool. I ended up with...what I ended up with.
  22. I currently find RMS too flat for my taste. Interestingly enough I fix this by adding Liquitex Matte Medium. Basecoat I usually just add distilled water. All other applications after that starts off with 1:1 paint-Matte medium. I add water to adjust the consistency. Washes usually I add some flow improver.
  23. I rinse a lot while painting, everytime before I reload my brush. Usually a final rinse at the end of a painting session is all that's needed before I keep my brushes. Maybe twice a month or after using them with metallic paints, whichever comes first, I wash them with shampoo, whatever we have in the bathroom at that time. Then some hair conditioner, again whatever the wife's using, rinse after 30 mins. My brushes look pretty happy. :)
  24. http://chestofcolors.com/about-driving-and-contrasts/
  25. I get it, like I said it's how I do my metallics. What I meant was with the examples given, how is using NMM to represent shiny paint or enamel surface any different from using NMM to represent metal, all in the context of using NMM together with TMM on a single figure?
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