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Everything posted by junex

  1. Thanks for your reply -- I tried Liquitex Matte Medium with the P3 paints and it did not reduce the shine (although it lengthened the drying time significantly). Does Vallejo Matte Medium have special qualities that reduce the shine in paint? Vallejo Matt Medium just seems to get the job done for me, I have no idea why it seems to be better than say Liquitex Matte Medium. I've also tried the Liquitex Matte Medium as well as the W&N Galeria Matte medium, both seems to dry slightly shiny. In fact if I add it to Reaper paints it dries satiny. Liquitex Ultra Matte Medium, OTOH, dries flat too. However I find that if I use too much it lightens the color a little and slightly chalky. The Reaper Anti-Shine Additive I have has a paste consistency. I don't know if that's how it should be or I have an old bottle. Oh, and just to be clear I haven't tried the Vallejo Matt Medium with P3 paints since I don't have any right now. But I do have some P3 inks and I have used it with those.
  2. I love the colors! I've still trying to fully grasp NMM myself so please bear that in mind as I share my observation and tips. I agree with Sanael that if you can add gleams/specular highlights it would really sell the illusion of metal. Reserve your lightest highlight for this and if you can edge highlight the metals, only where the gleam would logically be, with a thin line it would be more convincing, I think. Also the amount of highlight and the area it covers helps. Large areas covered with a smooth transition from midtone to highlight appears matte or satiny, small areas of coverage looks shiny/glossy. If you were going for zenithal lighting, your placement of highlights makes sense to me. I guess except for the sword when viewed from the back. Hope this makes sense.
  3. I suggest you also look into Vallejo Matt Medium, I find it less trciky to use than Reaper Anti-shine Additive.
  4. I think most competition and display miniatures are primed white/light grey is because it's easier to achieve colored shadows.
  5. Unfortunately I couldn't find any. All I have right now is a theory which I currently have no way of proving scientifically. I think that after removing the excess water from the brush head, the effect of gravity against capillary action on the small amount of water left in the bristles is negligible.
  6. Like I said in another thread, even W&N recommends drying the brushes bristles up: http://www.winsornewton.com/products/brushes/care-and-cleaning-of-brushes/ Try this, load your brush with water, hold it bristles down, touch the edge of a tissue paper on the part where the bristle meets the ferrule.
  7. Don't you hate it when you thought you typed something and it turns out you were just thinking it...or does this just happen to me. I meant to say that I thought the original cause of the tip not maintaining a sharp point was, like ced1106 said, paint getting in the ferrule. Now I think it's just my general klutziness or quality issues to begin with. After changing how I used my brushes I really haven't had a problem with my brushes' tips for several years now. Not loading too much paint and rinsing the brush everytime before I reload it with paint helped. Using a two pot rinsing system helped too. Nah, I don't think it matters whether you store your brushes flat, bristles up or bristles down. I know it will make some of you cringe but I always store my brushes bristle up. My S7 Miniature #3 has seen close to 100 hours of use, an S7 Round #1 that's older and an S7 Round #0 that's even older, all dried and stored bristles up, all has a tip maybe as sharp as when they were new.
  8. Ruined the tip of a few S7 brushes myself. Dipped the bristles in W&N Brush Cleaner & Restorer using one of those wire loop brush cleaner thingies, didn't work. Left it there for around 12 hours. Always used Master's Soap, after every painting session. So I figured it was either my other bad habits that was the cause (likely suspects were jabbing the brush on the side of the rinse pot when I'm in a hurry or dropping it on the floor) or there were quality issues in the first place. Switched to relaxing more when painting, rinsing more often, using shampoo instead of brush soap. My S7's dong good so far. Oh, also reserved my good brushes for precision works only, used a synthetic for pretty much everything else. Glad it worked out for you! :D I would like to try the Raphael 8400's if I can find one that fits my budget and a seller that ships here. I prefer spotters, shorter hairs. The 8404's are great brushes, just doesn't suit my style.
  9. Interesting, I bought a couple of 8404's before and I found them softer, has less snap, than S7. The bristles of the ones I had tend to stay slightly "bent" until I physically straightened them out. I thought that's what gave them the ability to maintain an excellent point. But not my personal preference so I went back to W&N and daVinci's.
  10. Ah, wet palette. One of my favorite painting tools. nakos, I think the problem you're having is the sponge that you're using. If it is the foam that comes with the minis it's not the best kind to use, works in a pinch but not ideal. From what I understand, the bigger the airholes of the sponge the less water it holds. I prefer low wet palettes, since I have a tendency to jab my brush on the side of deep ones. I used to use sponge cloths (cellulose I believe), the same material as the one included in Masterson sta-wet palettes, if I'm not mistaken. My current favorite sponge is the synthetic chamois (PVA sponge). Soaks up more water the cellulose sponges. OK, it's thinner so once I cut it to size (which I had to do wet since it expands significantly) I use 3 sheets to get to a thickness I'm happy with. It could absorb up to 12x it's dry weight in water. Sorry can't find an image of the ones I actually use. You mentioned that in constructing your wet palette, you had to squeeze the sponge to get all the air out. With either the cellulose or the PVA sponge all you have to do is pour water on top and the sponge just soaks it in (well unless the PVA sponge is bone dry then you'd have to squeeze it a little to get it pliable again). I guess just like paper towels. My problem with paper towels is they always end up lumpy. Stores here stopped selling Reynolds parchment paper, so I turned to Glad brand instead. Then I tried rolls of baking paper from a local baking supply store, cheaper and better permeability (maybe because no silicon(?) coating?). The problem I had with these was that I usually poked holes in them when I get too eager mixing paints. My order of W&N Compact Palette Refill arrived last March and I've been using the paper from that. I looks about the same as parchment paper but more durable. I've been using the same sheet (again cut to size) for almost 4 months now. I just rinse it off, with a little light scrubbing, if I want to start fresh. That one sheet I've been using is now slightly stained but still in one piece. I'd appreciate it if someone can tell me if there is a stationary store equivalent of this paper, maybe for a cheaper source.
  11. Thank you everyone for the kind words! Indeed, and what I like about it is when you realize that you can actually do it and that, more often than not, that it's actually fun. Thanks, but I can't take all the credit, the beard was already part of the mini. I didn't know if the camo pattern would work, glad that it did. Unfortunately, I think the subdued colors was one of the reasons I didn't get into the top 5. No, I haven't shown it on the Infinity forum but now that you mentioned it I will. Thanks again for the compliments.
  12. Yeah, the reflection from the ice/snow makes perfect sense. Can't wait to see what tweaks you come up with.
  13. OK, me not paying attention again. I understand what you're doing now. I think it's a great idea, specially what's available now tech-wise. I've been doing something similar but I've been using Evernote. I have to admit though that it's not as organized as yours.
  14. My comment for more shadows was only if you're going for zenithal lighting...I keep forgetting that there are alot of different styles of painting.
  15. Thank you for all the compliments! @Kharsin Funny thing was I actually ordered some laser cut paper leaves online because I didn't think I could make them myself. The competition deadline was only a few days away and there was still no sign of the package. I decided to bite the bullet and make them myself. Turned out pretty nice and the process was actually zen-like. Coat the paper leaves with matte medium or PVA/wood glue for extra strength. Learned the hard way that cyanoacrylate is no good. The leaves I ordered arrived the day I submitted my entry. The tree is a root with a few branches glued on.
  16. From Marike Reimer's video tutorial, she showed sketches she made of the projects she was about to do and painted the colors directly on it to play with color scheme and also to keep track of which colors she used on which area. I planned to print out grey scale photos of minis (I can't draw very well) and use those instead. Never got around to it. I used to keep a painting journal, to keep track of the colors I used but I have the same problem as Willen. The only time an area is truly finished is when I finally put the mini in the display cabinet. I never write the colors down when I'm actually using it so at the end of a painting session I try to recall the colors and order, dilution, placement, etc. Doesn't always work.
  17. A lot of really good information on this thread. I'm still trying to be proficeint at it so the only thing I could add are my personal preference, which hopefully someone would find helpful. - I prefer spotters and the biggest one I can get away with. My current favorite is the Series 7 Miniature size 3. Shorter bristles gives me more control. - for more fluid strokes I prefer a retarder (OK, I mix retarder in everything anyway) which has a little flow release property too. Gives me a few extra seconds to correct errant brush strokes. - I prefer to start off with the rough "sketch" a color closer to the base color of the area I'm doing freehand on. Just makes it easier to cover-up mistakes.
  18. This one I did for an online painting competition. Managed to win Judge's choice. I just noticed that most of minis I painted, the ones I have pictures of anyway, they're looking left. Must be because I'm right-handed. I need to keep note of that for my next projects. Kinda lame trademark...hehehe This was a fun mini to paint but what I enjoyed the most was making those paper plants.
  19. Thank you for the compliments! @ub3r_n3rd Yup, it's 28mm.
  20. The skin turned out really nice. Personally I'd have preferred more shadows but that's just me. Great job!
  21. Thanks! It's from a set of Scibor Wild Hunters.
  22. Thanks, nice to be here. Been looking for a forum to hang out in and this looks like a very friendly and very active one. Actually I think W&N recommends that because of capillary action. Once excess water is removed and the brush left to dry head up, water still on the bristles will either flow into the ferule and the brush makers have already taken this into consideration when they designed the brush or it stays near the belly of the bristles away from the ferule. If the lack of proper brush drying holders is the problem I think W&N would be selling those instead of brush vases. But I guess all that really matters is that you have a system that works and that you are happy with. On the topic of basing, I usually use Milliput and more recently Apoxie putty for gap filling or base works and I usually have leftover. If I can not find any other use for the mixed putty, I roll them into sheets (between baking paper so I don't have to worry about the putty sticking to stuff). Once they set I can break them into pieces for ruined concrete slabs, etc.
  23. Thank you very much for all the compliments and for appreciating my work! I did this a couple of years ago. Looking at the pictures again, I believe I improved in some aspects but regressed in others. I think this was my first attempt at freehand. Like any new technique I was really scared to actually try it, but it wasn't as bad as I thought and it turned out pretty good. A sample of my more recent free hand: The only picture I have of this mini, it was a gift to that same friend. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of the finished work.
  24. A friend said I should really share more of what I paint. So, I'd like to start off with my avatar: Alastriel, Elf Sorceress. My favorite Werner Klocke sculpt for Reaper. Thanks for looking.
  25. Just saw this thread courtesy of ub3r_n3rd's link. I would like to share a couple of links that you guys might find useful also: James Gurney's blog: http://gurneyjourney.blogspot.com/ ; I found it useful for understanding colors and lighting. He also has a book, Color and Light (a favorite of mine) but a lot of it's content are already available on his blog. My favorite video on YouTube about color theory: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYZWDEmLR90 ; helped me understand color theory better. For basing material, our office replaced some vinyl floor tiles a while back. I got the old ones, easy enough to break by hand for broken concrete basing or slate alternative. On a slightly off-topic, I saw the discussion here on storing brushes bristles/hair down. Actually Winsor and Newton recommends to "stand head up to allow the hair to dry." I've storing all my brushes head up for several years now and they're still good as new.
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