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Ddot

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Everything posted by Ddot

  1. I love the Reaper paint-on. I've also found out that Citadel's Imperial Primer is pretty excellent, although i am inclined to thin it a bit with water first. Living on the East Coast of the US, we have inclimate weather 9 months out of the year... right now it's heat, humidity, and the when it wants to , wind... good luck spray priming in that! So paint-on is almost a must, but it's also helped my painting a bit.
  2. I'll concur on the highlighted bits. I've tried white, grey, and black primers, and black gets the best results overall... for me. Especially when i use browns to "neutralize" the black primer. With white and grey, I spend as much time adding the right buit of shading as I would building up the right bit of highlights over black, so either way, it's a time-consuming process for me. With the black, I get a bit of grittiness to work over as opposed to having to build it in, if that makes sense.
  3. I would like to see a live-action movie based on the Black Lagoon anime. They'd have to do a new storyline, but all the backstabbing criminals would write its own plot.
  4. Yeah, the d6 method works great. You can even pick up really small d6 for this purpose and fit them on the bases in case you get in an epic combat. I think with the dynamic model stats, doing it without tracking wounds would totally change the game... there are even a few models that get better as they take damage, so it wouldn't be fair to them.
  5. Would a coat of matte varnish help out here? ???
  6. If you can, transfer them into dropper bottles, because the flip-top lids are suspect and break pretty easily. Mostly the tabs breaking, which makes them a pain to open. Otherwise a pretty solid paint line. The pigments are a bit different from RMS. It's some sort of "liquid suspended" pigment. Makes it far less grainy straight out of the bottle, which makes it a decent option for straight out of the bottle for basecoating, though I still do add some water. Never tried their inks, as I tend to shy away from inks except to add a bit more vibrance to my paint. With P3's coverage, this isn't really necessary.
  7. Fixed. Also, if they're a bit wobbly, adding flash tabs and scrap metal to the base will add a touch of stability.
  8. Very well done. The first thing that popped out was the "five o'clock shadow", as that was done to perfection.
  9. We were playing the 70's channel at work and I got reintroduced to some cool stuff I hadn't heard in years.
  10. Except one thing... it's not Igo-Ugo, or anything like that. It's bassically always yyour turn, even when it's not. Let's say I'm playing Dave. On Dave's turn, he can spend orders to have his models do stuff. Even though it's NOT my turn, my models still get to act, although in a limited capacity. Say Dave wants to shoot my Domaru. Good call on his part; that thing gets anywhere near his models, they're getting sliced, diced, and jullienned. He sends guy A to shoot my Domaru. Now my options are basically to try and shoot back- not a Domaru's strength- or Dodge. So I dodge and win the contested roll. This allows me to move 2". So guy A tries it again, and Domy dodges again, successfully, and moves another 2". Dave decides that guy A is a schmuck, so he does a combined order with guys B and C. Domy decides to Dodge against both their shots and wins, allowing him to move another 2". So my Domaru ha moved 6" across the board- on my opponent's turn. At this point, all Dave can do is send his hacker out to try and hack the Domaru's armor, 'cause the Domaru will soon be in cover, and be able to cut down an alleyway and come around the flank where he can inflict maximum carnage with very good odds.So he moves hs hacker up and tries to hack, at which point all I can do is have the Domaru declare a shot if the hacker is within LoS and hope it's in range. It's a slightly different game from 40k or WMH. A bit like Warlord in the sense that you get to shoot or melee people who are shooting or meleeing you, but far more fluid and dynamic. Someone moves into LoS, you get to react, even if they were simply planning to sneeze in a better spot. (I'm getting goofy there, but you get the idea.) And sometimes, you don't even need LoS, you just need to be within 8" of them (hacking... argh!) It's complicated, but it opens up so many strategic opportunities within every order, active or reactive, that it makes the game truly shine.
  11. @Willen, it'sactually something I picked up on the Infinity forums. They make nice cover as well as occasionally blocking line of sight to prone figures (which can be a good tactical move at times/) @A Dent, As long as you have some mates with a bit of patience, it'll be fun once you get the hang of it. We went through a bit of a trial and error process, because of the notion of reacting to a model's ORDER as opposed to reacting to its ACTION. (The headaches that argument brought... it was almost what you expect from 40k.)
  12. 1. Salt, sugar, and baking soda: my not-so-secret recipe for snow. Tip: be sure to have mini varnished before adding this to the base. Add a touch of straight elmer's glue with a paintbrush, then lightly drop mix onto the glue. if you do it right, the salt and sugar will give a bit of "shiny" to the effect. 2. Cork: makes great rocky bits, ledges, etc. I try to pre-drill mounting holes and then seal it off with a glue+water mix, otherwise it takes a bit more primer (I use paint-on primer due to environmental issues) to get a good coat. 3. Elmer's school glue: It should be #1, but I'm too lazy to revise the list. 4. Whatever fine gravel mix I can get my hands on. GF9 makes a number of excellent cannisters, and the three I bought back in 2010 are still 90% full. I tend to mix a bit of the the cannisters fro a varied texture. 5. Patience. When basing, a bad base can make an excellent mini seem somehow mediocre. Find the right theme, and take your time to execute it properly. For example, I was going for a bit of a "spring thaw" look for my Legion of Everblight army, so I had some patches of snow and exposed grass. Came out not bad. It doesn't overwhelm the models, nor detract from them. Bonus points for whoever catches the extra bit of basing detail herein.
  13. Played a bit of Infinity last summer before RL threw a monkey wrench into my gaming life. The balance is pretty good, which is always a plus in a game. It's less about list-building than it is about using the pieces you bring to the table. *Aas their forum meme, "It's not your List, It's You!!!" Special Weapons Costs keep the heavy hitters to a reasonable level at any points size. My only real complaint about the game is the ludicrous amount of terrain you need to play a proper match. If your LGS has plenty available, no problem, but if your looking for a beer-n-pretzels-play-at-home game, you'll spend far more time making terrain than painting minis. Another thing is the rules for ARO can be tricky to get right the first couple of games. We went almost ten games before we got confirmation we were doing it wrong. D'oh! Speaking of minis, they tend to be excellent, if not a bit fiddly to put together. Introductory price is reasonable. My Yu-Jing starter ran ~$45, and $100 got me enough minis to play 300 point games with some variety; caveat: some of those were "elite" minis, so YMMV here. If you need to build terrain, you can figure another $50 plus time to start-up costs. A couple quick tips on terrain building on the cheap: _ Bottle caps. If you drink bottled drinks, save the caps and glue them together. Instant barrels/equipment lockers/whatever. Makes good cover that can be placed almost anywhere. _ Balsa wood makes a good building material for buildings, relatively inexpensive and somewhat easy to find. _ Try to make a plan for modular terrain. Make buildings by the floor, make them stackable, fom a one-story builings to skyscrapers, based of the same design. Make stairways that can be placed next to lower buildings for access. 8"x10" is a good basic size for buildings, althouh 12"x16" works for larger stuff.
  14. Break it down into its basic shapes and go from there.
  15. No complaints here. In fact, my fave part is the armor. The green and grey contrasts nicely with each other, and works well with the browns and reds. Makes me want to expand my massive WMH collection...
  16. As much as I love the minis for Infinity, they are far worse than PP in this regard. Especially for any kind of heavy infantry. Which sucks extra for me because I love my Yu-Jing, who have the biggest selection of HI in the game. Also, they have the nasty combination of realistic scaling+ action poses+ shallow details= some godawfully inconvenient mold lines. Heads. you file off the mold lines and ruin the details, tails, you leave the mold lines and hope people look the other way.
  17. Wish I'd kept up with the forums. I'm currently in Newport News (about a 30 min drive plus tunnel traffic-ugh!) If the next day or so isn't a problem, drop me a PM. We have an excellent game room at World's Best Comics but alas no Warlord players, although I have been kicking the idea since one of my WMH league buddies got his Reaper kickstarter box of awesome.
  18. It's so crazy it just might work. On a brighter note, my friends and I went to see Jurassic Park IN 3-D the other day and it was a pretty cool experience. I thought it was kinda wasted for the first 30 minutes of the movie but as it kicked in the 3-D effects were stronger. The "oh crap" moment was when Dr Sadler was throwing the power switches on, the arm falls on her, and the raptor bursts through the piping. Seriously, get Spielberg on the project and Ep VII will be epic.
  19. SDE minis are so cute they make my teeth hurt. You made that lil dude look super-tough- no small feat.
  20. First off, the runes at the bottom doubling up as front arc marker is sweet and subtle. The NMM is some of the best I've seen, especially the steel. The chipped paint/battle damage is well- placed and done but not overdone. What really struck me is the whites that never get too bright, it's really natural-looking. A model truly worthy of Parasite+Scything Touched Seether love.
  21. Thanks to all. I tried highlighting with blues and blues+whites, and after purple glazing (and not nesrly as many layers of it) I came up with some cool highlights that really bring out the shading. I can see me refining this a bit, but I think I' on the right track.
  22. Actually, I'd vote to see a video of Quiksiler doing laundry. Anyone can take pics near a washing machine, watching him actually do it is more credible. On the subject, can I assume the laundry method is for cold and warm water cycles only? As long as you keep the lid on tight and agitate them on a regular basis, they should be fine.
  23. Hey all. Been working with purples recently and the results have been a bit- well- unsatisfying. When mixing with off-whites, everything turns pink. I knew it was coming but couldn't do a lot about it. Would it be better to try a paler blue as highlight before going to the whites, and should I just do the whites directly (no mixing)? Also, with the pink highlights, I tried glazing, but by the time they stopped being pink, it had also muddled the darker colors a bit, so I'm looking to minimize glazing for my next model. Thank you, the Todd
  24. Paint it with bone colors, but add a bit of mid grey to cool down the shading- should give a slightly NMM feel that will push the impression of it beiong "forged". ("Tesseiga" came to mind...)
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