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Posts posted by Ddot

  1. Actually, the most important tutorials you can read are the ones regarding brush care. If you abuse your brushes, they'll lose the ability to hold a point, let paint flow properly, and it will cost you a bit in the long run as you replace brushes. I can't link right now, but searching for "brush care" in this forum and you should find a few useful links worth reading.


    Welcome to the boards.

  2. One thing I've been having fun with are 500 pt games. If you can proxy some "low-level" forces (Sgt-level troop leaders, minimum elites), you can fit a bit of everything (melee, shooting, magic) and get a feel for the game. I've gotten 5 games in with a fellow driver who isn't a gamer* and the last couple of games have been bloodbaths. He should have won the last one, but my Ice Demon went AWESOME. Aside from consulting the rulebook for certain Sa's, he gets it. My veteran buddies have had fun once they got out of Warhammer mode and are already learning the value of bringing spies for the sake of holding initiativecards.


    (*my non-gamer buddy is looking into getting a small army of his own and has been holding on to my book for almost a week. He's leaning towards Reptus or Reven at the moment.)

  3. ^that's another important consideration. Layering can be time consuming.


    When I first started out, I found out that I could get a good bit of work done in a relatively short amount of time using base-drybrush-correct. The results weren't great but at least I was getting stuff done. Then I really wanted to get better. Washes were another method that did a good amount of work in a limited time. But again, it only went so far and was only useful for so much.

    If you keep that in mind, it is definitely a technique worth learning (and practicing a lot with).

  4. As someone who has used washes extensively, I can make a case for their use if you remember that there's only so much they are good for. As for good uses of washes, pretty much any area you would do drybrushing is also a good wash target. If you are familiar with the Skirne Titans (Privateer Press), I did mine by base coating the skin, then building up highlghts with drybrushing, then applying a layered wash to define the texture and shadows. Being shallow-textured, this technique worked out really well. However, it is useless for cloth (I've tried) and smooth areas. It's really a matter of what it is you're trying to paint.

  5. Let me bring a different perspective to this: I discovered Warlord about a year ago and recently played my initial games. Coming from WHFB (6/7 ed) and Hordesmachine (1/2) I found the streamlined rules rather enjoyable. They covered quite a bit of interesting situations and introduced a few neat things. Random activation order? Brillinat! Then I actually played some games under the system, and guess what? Not only does it make sense and work, but my buddy and I finished our first 500 pt game in under an hour. We played two more in the next two hours and have finished "kill em all" in 25 minutes or less twice since then.

    -In short, we love the game. The rules cover what they need to and give players enough leeway to add other stuff. (most of the scenarios we use are from Hordesmachine, and they run well with Warlord.)

  6. As long as you keep in mind that "house rules" are just that, it shouldn't be a problem.


    One thing to consider is that "must shoot closest target" could become a way to cheese out of the "declare then measure" core rule- in other words, a way to get some pre- measuring in; ie, declaring a target that is probably a little furthur out, then checking to see if he "must" shoot a target that is actually closer and measuring a few distances. Heck, it could even happen unintentionaly. So I'm not a fan , but if you and your friends can live with that, go for it.

  7. I have heard it said that if and when one paints ALL the metal one has... one dies.

    damn, and I had just made peace with my mortality... I have a moving box full of stuff in their boxes and blisters on top of boxes and blisters. Not including in-process stuff at my paint station that is slowly getting done.

  8. Back to Bounty doctrine. OK, the Merc Xbows are 27 pts apiece, the Overlord Xbows are 3x pts apiece. Does anyone feel that Deflect/1, Lock Shield, Ranked (attack), and slighlty better defence would be worth the extra 11 pts (and let's face it, to make use of LS you're looking at 3 min)? It makes them harder to kill with ranged and magic (heck, even hth) as opposed to the slightly squishy Merc Xbows.


    Also, what about cheap meatgrindings such as Bondslaves, Broken Fodder, or even Bonslave Survivors, just to push the body count up?

  9. The Ewoks "won" because they started using sneaky guerilla tactics against a standard military force... Oh yeah, their most obvious success was a small band led by a Wookie who hijacked a light walker.


    Is it just me, is this thread becoming the start of a bad idea for a new faction for CAV?

  10. just a quick word on DV. Deflect is not the only SA which can affext DV. Dodge can affect your Dv against melee attacks in the same fashion. Also, Parry can give you a scalable DV bonus in melee. Actually, it's some of the attack-triggered DV's that gave me fits in my first games. Mariltih with a Gruesome Weapon... That's Vicious and Demoralize on top of Shock. We had to look those up- twice! Glad you all enjoyed the first games, just give it a couple more, the SAs will make more sense. Also glad to see you were enjoying the RAGE mechanic. The d10 makes a difference while keeping things flowing.

  11. Recently played a few test games and a few things stood out.

    1. The RAGE d10 system keeps things rolling along at a good pace... None of this "roll attack roll" then "roll damage roll". For this alone I love RAGE.

    2. The troop initiative sytem is pretyy nice. Not getting steamrolled by three different units makes things a bit more tactical. Oddly enough, it also makes me think Malifaux got their system wrong, and I love Malifaux.

    3. After a lot of proxies, we each played 3 games with 3 vastly different armies, and nothing really seemed to be a bad choice as far a army comp went. Were there better choices, probably, but none really seemed to be bad.

    4. The magic system is pretty sweet. It has enough usefulness without being overly game-changing due to the various limitations (one spell per turn, limited spell points).

    Taking what we learned, I know I am going to start pushing the game locally. The fun doesn't end after army-building, which is how it should be.

  12. I have had pretty good results with Vallejo GC paints. Inarah's point about seperation is one worth repeating, especially if you use a well-pallette. The worst offenders IMHO are the reds, especially if you thin them down.


    A follow up: I've read many reviews where the Model Color paints are prone to peeling away with frequent handling of models. Has anyone experienced this?

  13. (cont.) The edition creep (which is quite frequent) is also very discouraging. I had managed to trade some mortal units for some daemons, just enough to do a 2k list with a tooled-up Lord of Change... Who now (in 8th ed., which most players locally play ,cuz it's the official edition) suddenly cost too much points-wise to field, meaning I'd have to buy another 650 points of lesser models (no small feat at current price points)... EBay became my friend at that point.

    -honestly, 40k should bne due for 6th ed pretty soon (they need to sell rulezbookz after all) at which point the shiny new Dark eldar armies the 40k,ers bought up will probably get nerfed by the general game rules. 4th ed (where I came in) worked well enough, and Tau Empire made the army a bit more workable, but they still have issues. Unfortunately, a new codex will probably bring enough points changes to where I'll have to make a buy-or-sell decision for a game I'm ambivelent-at-best about. Just bad acting all around on their part.

  14. That almost qualifies for the attention of Anonymous* if they're shutting down websites for posting pics of painted GW models... Universally understood as one of the better ways to get people to "ooh" and "ahh" and get interested about the hobby. (*Anonymous= internet hackers who will crash your site for percieved-and real- wrongs against the Internet community. I don't condone their methods, but they do tend to have a point.)

    -Of course, the big problem is vis-a-vis the tournament community. GW loves screwing with the rules (especially of late), usually invalidating armies. As a WHF player, I collected a Chaos armythat was a solid mix of beasts, daemons, and mortals... and they went amd invalidated it by making all three mutually exclusive armies!!! Meaning I had to either buy a whole bunch more chaos figs of a certain type -or- stop playing chaos altogether. Seeing how I sold off all my chaos figs, guess which way I went.

  15. I don't see how the mini games industry could be in decline. It seems every year or two a new game comes out that changes how we think abouit games. If anything, the industry needs to hold steady so we can catch up as gamers/collectors/hobbyists.


    GW's problems are self-inflicted and well documented. Instead, we should celebrate the overflowing cup of diversity in games. Currently I have minis for (deep breath) Warlord (Darkspawn), Hordesmachine (Skorne, Legion, Mercs), Malifaux (Neverborn), Infinity (Yu Jing), hey I even have WarhammerFantasy (Dark Elves) and 40k (Tau). And I know people who have stuff for other games as well, not to mention games that never took off. Like I said, the cup overfloweth.

  16. 1. Congratulations. It's the dream job for those of us out here in paint land, so we get happy when one of our own gets to live the dream.

    2. On a personal note, I hope you get to work on upcoming Skorne and/or Legion projects.

    2a. If you need any nifty Skorne tactics, pm me.


    Best wishes,


  17. the good friar looks quite bemused. Excellent expressiveness taking the sculpt to the next level. The folds in the off-white cloth seemed a bit off in the shading to me but doesn't detract from the overall look. Two thumbs up.


    I'm not happy with the ivory cloth... and in retrospect I wish I had gone with grey instead.

    i liked the color choice, just thought the shading was a bit off.

  18. I prefer distilled water for painting, although I do use straight tap water for rinsing and cleaning.


    A gallon of distilled for approx $1.00US is a small investment in relation to $3.00 paints, $5-25 brushes, and minis of all sorts of prices. I tranfer the water into a 20 oz soda bottle (cleaned) and mix with 1/4 oz of flow improver (Liquitex recommends 1:20, I find less is more with RMS and P3). I have an old dropper bottle with straight water for primer and varnishes. That still leaves well over 3/4 gallon fromthe oroginal gallon, and the transfers go a long way. Purification systems are a bit more at start up, but like I said, I've had no problem using them neither; additionally, using filtered water for rinsing and cleaning might be better for brush care, but I'm not sure.

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