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Ddot

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Everything posted by Ddot

  1. The water filter systems should be ok but there might be a bit of residual minerals that the filter didn't get. That said, I had no problems using filtered water so you should be ok.
  2. I did kinda think "Native American" with the cloaks but with the amount of awesomeness everywhere, who cares? Very well done.
  3. the good friar looks quite bemused. Excellent expressiveness taking the sculpt to the next level. The folds in the off-white cloth seemed a bit off in the shading to me but doesn't detract from the overall look. Two thumbs up.
  4. What a rip... No earthquakes, no chaos, no dead rising ... nothing. On the plus side, I can resume painting minis in peace when I get home from work.
  5. Infinity has been getting a bit of love on the Internet, although nobody has picked it up locally so can't give you a first-person account. The minis are very cool, so I might pick up a starter soon. (yeah, just what I need... More minis to assemble and paint.) Check out the review at HandCannonOnline... It got me intrigued.
  6. First off, they are they ultimate blend of cool and cute... and I'm not even a fan of cute. Are these available at the online store? And for how long?
  7. Very well done. I found that purplish make-up for the eyes and lips contrasts nicely with Caucasian skin tones without making the model look hooker-ish. Also, gives the ladies a dark, brooding, gonna-kick-yer-butt look that such models deserve. JMO, but Sam McHorne is the perfect model for this sort of thing. (Plus the Devil Dogs are a fun unit on the table)
  8. @awong, if you have a buildup in your rinsing bowl, it might be a good idea to clean it out. Maybe overnight with a stripping solution, some agitation or toothbrush action, then rinse it out very well to make sure there's no stripper residue. I use the cups from fountain drinks for rinsing pots, so I have a constant collection in the rotation. Also, I tend to rinse&refill fairly often, so buildup isn't as big an issue with me. Oh, and I keep one cup for "initial rinse" and a second cup for "final rinse".
  9. Two thumbs way up. The fleshtones are well done, the white cloth is near-perfect, and the overall color selection is beautiful.
  10. 20 minutes and counting EST. In the event Rev Camping is right, I'd like to thank you all for the laughs, insights, and pics of cool minis, as well as apologizing for not posting any of my own. -out
  11. Just a request for those who might be raptured: please leave the following items out front for those of us left behind: -beer and other intoxicants -food (note: putiing the above in the refrigerator would be best) -CDs and DVDs -clothes and shoes -online account information (incl. Passwords) for bank accounts, BB's, porn, etc -maps to any buries treasure you have -the titles to any vehicles and a quick note authorizing transfer of title Your cooperation is appreciated. -the rest of us.
  12. I like the job overall: color selection, highlight/shading, etc etc. Having had a healthy fascination with dinos since I was 7* makes me love it. *oh all those years ago...
  13. A useful way to think about matte medium is that it's sort of paint, only without the pigments. Not entirely accurate, but close. I use it to thin down the pigments. Not as much with RMS as with the P3's- they have a very strong pigment. I wouldn't recommend it for basecoating; you want good coverage in that process. The one exception would be if you mixed an ink with your basecoat paint; you'll want that extra bit of body. For layering, it's great. It thins the pigments nicely while retaining consistency. That,s why you didn't see significant change in drying time. It adds a nice bit of body for washes so they are more likely to stay where you put them, although wash control is still good to use. I love the stuff myself, even though I find myself using less of it than I used to.
  14. Dr. Fly- a human with a fly's head (the reult of a lab mishap), complete with labcoat and a beaker Shredder- crazy metal dude playing guitar (ala Metalocalypse)
  15. One good way is to paint a strong midtone, then shade down and highlight up. One thing to remember is that gems work in reverse of normal shade and highlight conventions; the bottom will be highlighted and the top will be shaded (except for that little dot at the top of shading). There are good tutorials all over, just look in the "tutorials" thread for more info.
  16. The thing about true metallics is that you have to shade down the extreme shadows anyway, so starting with non-metallic and using metallics to highlight makes a lot of sense. I'm getting back to such a technique for the sake of not spending the next ten years straight doing NMM on the minis I currently need to paint.
  17. Not sure how much work you did on the metal before doing the rest, but once you painted the rest of him, the metals had real context and made more sense to me. (if that makes any sense to you) anyway, that "finished" mini is very cool, and not just the NMM work.
  18. Hmm, I believe your sample army is not quite legal as there are more solos than leaders; one unit is a leaderless Band troop. (Clear on that rule.) I'm guessing it was an oversight in the interest of making a point, which I did get. For the most part I'm more interested in running a fairly mixed army so probably not as big an issue for me, but I do appreciate the clarifications and comments nonetheless.
  19. Very cool batrep. It looks like you're getting the hang of the game. Sometimes the dice will make any game really random... The almost immortal Maug being a good example. On the other hand, it looks like you picked your fights pretty well, which is a good sign. I suspect an epic rematch is in the future. (hint hint)
  20. lol once again DC screws up the game. I guess as long as I show some level of sportsmanship in the process, anything will work. @Shak, thanks for pointing out p 26. i re-read that section and am clear on it.
  21. I always thought of "Javolith" as something that could be a title myself. Kinda curious on the non-Reaper "parts" for conversions in case I ever made it to an official tournament, as I have a metric tonne of a particular model from WHF with really cool weapons; dismembering 5-20 of them for conversions would be no real loss to the current collection as I no longer play the game (we have two other WHF players in the area and they have insisted on the current edition, my distaste for which is well documented) The rules themselves make good sense as long as everyone understands what is what before the games commence. I like it as I found a great "dark elf priest" model who would be a great Javo... The spiked mace just screams "Gruesome Weapon."
  22. I might be missing something regarding question 2. Is deployment also carried out according to initiative deck draws? If so, if I use Demonic Conclave, do I declare what models/troops are starting the game "in play"?
  23. So maybe it would be something to consider if building a Nefsokar list, as thay have a good bit of DR and Restore tome available to them, but not so much with Darkspawn who have very little DR and no access to Restore? I did notice what you mentioned about attack SA's with defensive applications such as Disable, Shock, and Assassin. Darkspawn has those in spades, so if I run a killy army, I should at least be in a better place once I make contact. In theory anyway. Thanks for clear answers.
  24. How much consideration do you put into the number of DT's that go into the army selection? Doing some Darkspawn lists I noticed that models with fewer DTs tend to suffer in terms of killiness; the killy models tend to be expensive with not much more in the way of DTs, thus fewer models and fewer net DTs (althugh some have Regeneration/3(/4)). This might alleviate things somewhat, but it was something I thought about after some people posted army DTs in their lists and others didn't.
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