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zemjw

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Posts posted by zemjw

  1. I made some hollowed out bases in 3d software and just print them when I need them. It lets me tune the depth of the recess, and increasing the diameter isn't a problem either.

     

    If the figure base is too tall then I can hack off enough material to shrink it, without having to worry about the final mm or two, as it will all be hidden 😁

     

    • Like 3
  2. Five Leagues from the Borderland, Five Klicks from the Zone and Five Parsecs from Home (fantasy, post apocalypse and science fiction) are worth having a look at. A couple of them are available in print from Modiphius, all of them are PDFs on DriveThru and Wargames Vault

     

    Check out Ganesha Games as well, as they do a range of solo/co-operative rules. Sellswords and spellslingers is one I keep meaning to look at. I'm fairly sure there are dungeon rules in their line (I have played an old version of their dungeon one, and I'm sure they've updated it)

     

    Fear of the Dark is a solo/co-op horror ruleset.

     

    Welcome to the hobby. Going overboard is par for the course ::D:

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  3. On 12/12/2022 at 12:26 PM, TaleSpinner said:

    If you have a decent to good tablet (something with some memory), check out Nomad Sculpt.  Freaking amazing. Here's my review and advice on it.

     

    I had somehow missed that, even though your review seemed vaguely familiar when I read it (ah, age, it brings to many things with it...)

     

    I've downloaded the Android version and I have to agree with your assessment ::D: Works with the S-pen, so pressure sensitive as well from the looks of it

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  4. Genius ::D:. It had never occurred to me to use Granny Grating for floor textures, but it's so blindingly obvious that I can't understand why I never noticed before 🤪

     

    I picked up some cheap floor tiles recently with a hexagonal pattern on them, but this will provide a bit of variety - I may even use the hexagons for rooms and this for corridors.

     

    The pipes and pens are good as well. However, I find that I always end up creating spaces that are incredibly difficult to reach with a paint brush with such an approach, so I'm curious to see how it looks when it's finished

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  5.  

    8 hours ago, Mad Jack said:

     Krull is awesome. Anyone who says differently is objectively wrong and should be pummeled with a rancid flounder.

     

    I am sad to say that I must be pummeled ::P:

     

    I always remember it as being cheesy, but thought I'd give it a go again recently. I don't think I managed 10 minutes, and most of that was drowned out by parts of my brain begging my eyes to stop watching it.

     

    There are a number of shows and films I have fond memories of watching in my youth. Experience has shown that it's better to wallow in those memories than face the harsh reality of just how bad some of that stuff really was 😱

  6. 2 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

    Same here.

    I even painted skin on legs when it turned out to be really tight pants...

    Yup, I've done that one. It was only the folds around the crotch area that tipped me off to my mistake ::P:

     

    I find starting to paint and really stare at the mini tends to bring "oh, that's what it is, duh" moments. I've also found myself painting bits of flash that I'd taken as pouches, etc during cleaning. Those tend to require more effort to fix ::(:

     

    I've looked at figures months after painting them and noticed that the part I painted wasn't what I thought it was. Those tend to be left alone, as I reckon that if I didn't notice in the weeks I was painting the part, then there's wiggle room in what it was meant to be  ::D:

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  7. He started scaling back late last year. The site has been down since late September 21.

     

    From a LAF thread from January this year

    Quote

    Phil's stated on Twitter that he's indeed doing commission work but the ranges are gone as it was too much hassle in essence.
    Animals have mostly gone to Great Escape Games and some adventurers to Dwarven Forge (?)

     

    It is a shame as he had some really nice figures

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  8. I've been 3d printing bases with the center recessed for a while now. I glue the base into the recess then fill in any gaps with filler. Golden Coarse Pumice Gel is my latest go-to for that. The edge of the base also makes it look neater, as I struggle to keep things even when building up around an integral base.

     

    Once the base is filled in it can be covered with sand, etc I find this makes it look like they're on a standard base without the hassle of removing integral bases, with all the problems you note.

     

    It will depend on the depth of the base. However, as it's going to be covered, hacking away chunks of cauliflower to make it fit is fine. There is a variety of integral base depths, so I sometimes have to shim them with a circle or two of plasticard to make their feet ground level.

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  9. I found some pictures I took of them more years ago than I care to admit. They're next to Studio Miniatures zombies, if memory serves

     

    This is them "raw"

    AM-JKLVsohJD2LjffBBgnh7y9UNQSH4iRAgrKavS

     

    and this is them on bulked up bases

     

    AM-JKLUGGYc4SiB34SD18YtKCiZBgjvwQAw3dOyT

     

    Not great, but not as badly out of scale as they were

     

    I found a couple of blog posts I wrote about this back in 2011 (ouch)

     

    https://zemjw.blogspot.com/2011/05/zombie-base-tutorial-1.html

    https://zemjw.blogspot.com/2011/05/zombie-base-tutorial-2.html

     

    As mentioned in a previous post, I would now 3d print the bases with a recess, which would be much neater.

    • Like 6
  10. 7 hours ago, Corsair said:

    I might just buy the "Bag o Zombies" that has 100 zombies in it. A little small, but for the price kinda hard to ignore.

     

    I have a bunch of them painted up. They are definitely on the small side - true 25mm at best. However, they work not too badly if you put them on a really tall base, as once they match at head height the proportions etc. are fine.

     

    I painted them before I got a 3d printer, so it was a base and a lot of filler to bulk it up. If I was doing it now I'd print some custom tall bases with a recess to drop the integral base into, which would make it easier to look like they were on roads.

     

    The other downside is that they are all the same pose. I did some minor conversions, but I do prefer a bit more variety in my undead than they offer 😁

    • Like 3
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  11. 21 hours ago, Chaoswolf said:

    I've been doing the same for  awhile now, but with all of my older 25mm stuff versus the newer 28s.

    99% of my 80s and 90s stuff is GW dwarfs and Orcs. Fortunately the fantasy scale creep doesn't matter so much for them, and actually works better with the dwarfs.

     

    I did try to get a few Goblin wolf riders to bulk out the two I had. However, the size difference there was absurd, so I've had to accept that the two will not be fielded as part of a unit.

     

    Fortunately the old Grenadier stuff is still out there, and I managed to grab a few dwarf bear riders before Brexit and new one stop shop VAT rules kicked in.

     

    The Reaper metal dwarfs are usable with most of my other dwarfs. I backed a Ral Patha kickstarter a few years ago and, much as the dwarfs are really nice, they're smaller than old school GW ones. Sadly, the one Bones USA dwarf I have is so big that it went straight into my "never gonna paint that" box ::(:

    • Like 1
  12. Yup, it's something I've noticed with the few Bones USA figures I have.

     

    Sadly it's not just Reaper, and I've almost become resigned to collecting separate 28mm and 32+mm science fiction stuff.

     

    Infinity had a huge size jump a couple of years ago, to the point where some Stargrave figures barely come up to their chest. The new Bones USA ones, however, fit in nicely with the newer Infinity.

     

    I accept people (and aliens) are different sizes, so one or two larger/smaller figures in a group are fine. However, when half the party is 5' 10" and the other half is 6' 10", it looks wrong.

     

    I wish you

    15 hours ago, Pancakeonions said:

    Hmm.  OK, not just me.  It irks me enough that I'll reach out to the team, and ask them to knock it off (or give us a warning or something!)


    Who knows if it'll make a difference, but if enough folks tell them it's annoying, maybe they'll cut it out. 

    Good luck with your quest. However, when manufacturers can't even decide if 28mm is to the eyes or the top of the head, I'm not sure how successful you will be.

     

    As an aside, who has ever said "I'm 6" tall to my eyes" ⁉️

    • Like 4
  13. I've used My Hobby's Mr Surfacer on a vehicle, but it would probably obscure details on a mini. There are spray and brush on versions, so it could be worth a try.

     

    The approach was to spray, sand, spray, sand etc, with the surfacer gradually filling in the gaps without the model getting too bulked out.

     

    Be warned, however, that it's some of the stinkiest stuff I have ever used, so ventillation and a respirator are strongly recommended ☠️

     

    edited to remove Tamiya as the manufacturer.

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  14. I was 16, starting to decide what to focus on for my exams and future (not that that worked out as planned).

     

    I was doing a lot of cycling in those days, out most days after school and longer runs at the weekend. Now I'm in the house 23 1/2 hours a day, although I still do indoor cycling (road bike up on a trainer, not Peleton)

     

    I was painting WW2 (airfix plastic and possibly Ros & Heroics 1/300) and ancient Macedonians (Lamming, Essex and others) at the time. I still have the Macdeonians in the loft, still largely unpainted. I am actually scared to look at the ones I did paint. In my memory's eye they're neatly painted. In reality, there was no shading or highlighting in those days, and I didn't do eyes.

     

    I was probably dipping my toes into fantasy figures, but it was probably another couple of years before Games Workshop really got going (apparently White Dwarf was first published in 1977, so I could be wrong about that)

    • Like 11
  15. Got my Colony 87 figures last week and my Dagon sculpt yesterday.

     

    This means my only outstanding Kickstarter is the Color and Light book from 3d Publishing. The most recent update from them is that it's at the printer, so I may clear my list in the next couple of months. If only I could say the same for the lead pile 🙄

    • Like 3
  16. The latest Wargames Atlantic newletter states that their conquistadors are "finished tooling" and "preparing for production". They're proper hard plastic, so may be worth a look, although it could be a month or two before they're available.

     

    Antedeluvium Miniatures do some undead conquistadors, which could save you some conversion work. They're metal and in the UK, so postage could be an issue

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  17. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/giochiuniti/pathfinder-arena

     

    Quote

    Pathfinder Arena is a competitive board game for 2-4 players set in the Pathfinder roleplaying game’s fantasy fiction Age of Lost Omens setting. 

    You will take the role of one of the iconic heroes of Pathfinder, trapped in a magical entity, calling itself “Arena”. Such an entity poses a challenge to the party: select a champion to claim the right to escape from it.

     

    a5f81921e63c0c867e57e72539204a9d_origina

     

     

    Already well over fund target, with 19 days to go

    • Like 1
  18. I just bought the first two seasons last week. I sort-of stumbled over the game while looking for solo board games. I'd completely forgotten there was ever a Kickstarter for it.

     

    Managed to grab the last two boxes at 30% off from an online shop, although obviously without all the Kickstarter extras

     

    I've bookmarked this thread for when I start painting the figures 😁

    • Like 3
  19. I never used to be able to get the needle cleaned after a session. I cleaned it and cleaned it again, but there was always a thin coating of paint when I next went to use it.

     

    What finally fixed it for me was an ultrasonic cleaner - the sort you get for watches and jewellery. Water and cleaner mix, pop the needle and tip in, run for about 10 minutes and all was good

     

    Quote

    I almost hate using the airbrush just for how much i have to set up and have out to clean, swap paint,  clean, rinse... but the advantage is super smooth primer. 

     

    This is the aspect I hate the most. So much so that I haven't dragged everything out for at least two years. I have several vehicles that I want to use it with, but I'm stalling on them, and leaning towards spray cans for the basecoat. Not as smooth, but not so important with vehicles.

     

    It doesn't help that I can only airbrush in the kitchen, which is less than ideal

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