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badocter

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by badocter

  1. I restarted internet explorer and it worked after that (maybe some stale temp files), though it is possible they fixed something at the same time.
  2. If I am pledge at one of the $100 dollar levels, can apply that $100 to options instead of a core set. Am on a limited budget, and at this point the options look sweeter but there are no $1 levels left. BTW, there seems to be a bit of a panic in the KS comments concerning the lack of $1 levels. One of ya might want to get over there and add another wave.
  3. I confirm my Deathsleet is also week kneed and bends forward if free standing. Like you, I will be attach his tail to whatever base I am using to anchor him from tipping. I agree they need to use a more rigid plastic for this guy.
  4. The six figs below are the IMEF Marines from the Vampire package, and are the first of figs from the Vampire package that I have painted. The sculpts are really great and they have "colonial marine" written all over them. I used them for practicing the demimetallic techniques outlined in LTPK 5 to do the green metallic armor plates and red metallic fuel tanks (on the back of the dude with the flamethrower). Hope these guys hold up better than the ones in "Aliens".
  5. Thanks all. I adjusted the exposure on my camera to brighten it up and reshot them with a background.
  6. Spent a about a day doing the six IMEF marines (1 yesterday and then the other 5 today), so I guess that qualifies as speed painting. The first one took the longest as I worked out the color scheme. Was experimenting with demi-metallics as described in LTPK 5 for much of the armour (demi-metal = mix of normal color paint with a metallic paint) Much of the armour was a mix of one drop Reaper Honed Steel plus 2-3 drops various greens. I used Army Painter Strong Tone Ink to do the shadowing.
  7. Great paintjob and striking base work. Well done !
  8. Unfortunately, I did not get any WIP shots as I was so excited to finally paint some of my pledge that I forgot to take photos, so the WIP posts for my part in this thread will be base work...the broccoli base for this one is to small for him to stand stably and he deserves something more scenic. As to the figure, he was basecoated with Army Painter red primer, followed by Reaper MSP Creamy Ivory for the teeth and wing claws, and Reaper MSP Sun Yellow for the eyes. The whole figure was then hit with a wash made of 1 drop MSP Pure Black, 1 drop MSP Ultramarine Shadow, 1 drop MSP Deep Amethyst, and 20 drops of water. The flame ball was basecoated with MSP Sun Yellow followed by a few alternating layers of Citadel glazes (Lamenter's Yellow and Bloodletter).
  9. Looks like I will be leading off this thread for the Bones KS "Demon's Set" which included Agramon and Rauthuros. Please feel free to post your works here. Below are the picks of my Agramon so far, and he is the first of my KS pledge that I have managed to put paint to. He is going to need a base as he is a bit back heavy on the broccoli base and tends to tip backward.
  10. I agree that it appears that the larger orders take more time to process, which is not much of a surprise. Has anyone recorded the number of items shipped each day? Seems to me like it has been around 10k a day since the beginning of the ticker. If they keep that pace, 8 more business days should finish all the packing.
  11. USPS has been impacted by the US government budget sequestration among other things, so they have scaled back and slowed many of the one-off services. At one point they were announcing that they were going to stop delivering on certain days, but public/voter outcry was big enough that they ended up not doing that. At the end of the day something else had to give for them to meet their sequestration obligation, and the services that got cut back and slowed are the ones that effect the fewest number of outspoken voters. USPS is doing what it can with what they can, but those 14000 former workers were doing something before that is now not getting done.
  12. Depends on whether you need the desk just to be functional, or if you need it to look good as well. If functional smooth tabletop is the only requirement, then a sheet of birch or oak vaneered plywood (i.e., the good stuff and the thickest they've got, not the plywood sheathing) from home depot mounted on legs of your choice will do. A couple coats of clear polyurethane will make it look nice and shiny. Throw a tablecloth on top of it and no one can tell what the tabletop is made out of anyway. I used that for kitchen table for years when I was first setting up house. My current desk was an old beat up office desk that I trashpicked for free. I painted it with black hammerite, and it looks good enough for my work area and is resistant to scratching and most chemicals, and it has the bonus of having some drawers to store stuff.. Last thing I would want is a desk expensive enough that I'd be afraid of getting paint or glue on it or scratching it with tools. Always seems like there are a few cheap beat up desks at church and charity rummage sales.
  13. I think that statement was put out by Frank Mentzer (one of the guys who wrote this stuff, Temple of Elemental Evil comes to mind.) If you think that errata was bad, you should check out the history on Deities and Demigods. It's pretty interesting. If memory serves, its something like: 1st print : Cthulu and Elric Mythos are in the book. Moorcock said "you didn't pay us, take it out." I'd heard that ultimately it was TSR itself that decided to take them out. Chaosium interpreted a licensing agreement made with Moorcock's agent as being exclusive, but was willing to let TSR keep printing it as long as Chaosium was acknowledged and credited, which for a time it was (I have a copy with both the Melnibonian and Cthulhu mythos as well as the thank you to Chaosium under Credits and Acknowledgements on page 4. After a change in TSR management, TSR decided it did not want to be giving free advertising for its competitor, and at that point yanked the material. Honestly, most readers probably did not notice the thank you...it was only two lines at the bottom of page 4.... I remember being so disappointed when I got my first copy in the 80's and the two mythos were missing after having drooled over a friend's copy that had them. Finally scored a copy with both mythos and in excellent condition from the used book box at my FLGS last year for $19.
  14. We can always hope he makes the cut for the 2nd Bones Kickstarter
  15. Fully assembled. The green stuff for attaching the far side wing is still setting up which is why it is propped up. The near side wing was attached yesterday.
  16. I knew it. The figure is so big that it can't be fit in a single photo frame.
  17. I was hoping to get it before my daughter's birthday this weekend, but I simply ordered too much stuff (I'm in the 18 range). Doh... If only I had ordered her stuff separate...
  18. Even the books you don't end up using to game can still be a fun read.
  19. Basecoating is moving along.
  20. Whether you end up going with craft paints or mini paints, you should construct a wet palette, so it is great to see that is already on your list. A couple grocery store sponges, a cheap plastic container, and a sheet of parchment will do, and that is all I used for mine. Wash the sponges and container and change the parchment once a month is the only maintenance I have to do with it. The wet palette serves several purposes. Firstly, it greatly increases how long the paint is still workable once you dispense it out. On a dry palette the paint will be workable only for a few minutes and you will feel like you are in a race to get the paint on the mini before it dries on the palette. On a wet palette, most paints will be workable for days if you put the cover on when you are done with a session - it reduces waste and eliminates the pressure to work quickly. Second, the wet palette helps thin the paints. This will need to be done even more for craft paints since they are normally thicker out of the bottle or tube than mini paints, but even for mini paints thinning is often necessary, and some steps in the mini painting process require more thinning than others. Better to use multiple thin coats on a mini since a single coat that Is too thick will fill in and obscure the mini details. Third, the wet palette is useful for blending, which you will be doing more of if your paint collection is small, but even those with large paint collections still blend a lot - the fact that the blend will be workable for days is a nice bonus. Never work straight out of a paint pot as it accelerates how fast the pot dries out. -- always dispense to a palette and close the container, and then paint.
  21. I did a search on WOTC's D&D forums for "reprints 2nd errata", and found a thread in the May 25-27,2013 range indicated there that errata was incorporated into the 2e reprints. Two posters confirmed they owned the reprints and the included errata was worth the price to them even though they had the original. One of the posters clarified that the reprints were based on the 1995 version but with the final errata incorporated. Just a disclaimer, I do not have these reprints myself, so I can not first hand confirm or deny anything about them.
  22. Reaper retail $3.29 for 1/2 ounce Craft store retail $1.39 for 2 ounces I have 200 minis to paint including two Cthulhus. The paint will quickly become the expensive part of this project. Check out the Reaper learn to paint kits. Each has 10 full bottles, two pewter minis, and technique instructions http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/LearntoPaintKits/sku-down After you subtract out the included minis and brushes from the kit price, the effective price per bottle is about $1.50. There are threads in the "work in progress" sub-forum for each of those kits, and everyone who has worked them seem pretty enthusiastic about the kit value. The kit 1 thread is here: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/46096-groupopenwip-l2pk1/ Those paints should go a long way on normal size minis. Admittedly, the large pieces like the cthulhu's will require more.
  23. As suggested by others, I am going to paint most of him before I attach the wings. Primed most of him tonight. Still need to prime the underside of the body and the wings
  24. I did not need to pin on this one (or at least that is the story I'm sticking to until proven wrong). The pieces fit together well and the sockets/tenons for attaching the legs were plenty deep. I just put a wad of green stuff around the inside rim of the socket, pushed the leg tenon in, and then put superglue around the edge wherever the metal met metal. No sign of weakness as far as I can tell. Attaching the upper cranium to the lower jaw/neck assembly took a fair amount of green stuff, otherwise the back of his head would have looked hollow.
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