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Everything posted by themudhead

  1. This isn't wholesome family entertainment. Judgement of others based solely on their attractiveness on-screen to/by immature people. Does anyone else find this thread offensively sexist and infantile? What next, post your favorite catcalls!? Post your best way to de-humanize others for entertainment!? Is this what we are teaching young minds browsing these boards as a good way for adults to act? No wonder we are thought of as playing with dolls/toys... Perhaps this thread should be locked as an example of what not to do.....
  2. I would participate if there were a painted miniature only exchange... but since there is not... sigh!
  3. This is a nice mini... love the paint scheme but, ho hum another green elf... perhaps though, a good captain of the guard for my new campaign... and convert to southpaw sword and board... hmmm... just be sure and get the metal one...
  4. ... a tad bit easier to modify, it is written... easier to cut, it is written... It is also easier to assemble. Super glue will hold the weight of a bones appendage much better than metal too, so no need for pinning in every situation, especially when gap filling is required. This is what I'm asking... Are these differences, calculated in judging, enough to make a difference in the final score? I'm hoping for a better answer than opinions. They have changed their rules before (which I won't get into), and with emerging technology (bones), they may do so aga
  5. Yep, I've seen this. But I know it is much simpler to modify bones minis, and/or resin minis, as opposed to metal ones. I asked if there will be a difference in scoring on the difficulty, creativity, or workmanship of the model in question regarding its material? It would be nice to know so I don't go wasting time and money on metal minis when I can get the same scores with bones plastic, and have a much easier time doing the conversions. Or not. Come to think about it, since I don't have to worry about dropping the model, Painting Skill is easier too...
  6. Since modifying Bones minis are so easy compared with Metal, will the Open category of the painting competition be modified for Difficulty, Workmanship, and Creativity to reflect these differences?
  7. Why don't I like this figure? It has a great paint job, cool pose, book, intense stare, nice features, the base is cool. But I am like..., Meh... It just doesn't thrill me. Maybe if I added wings or something, tentacles or spider legs maybe?
  8. If I can make it to Reapercon 2017, I will be bringing many of mine along. I hope to have enough trades for a Pathfinder Harrow deck soon. But, I am picky... Here is an example: Oct4-TentacleTuesday.tif
  9. That paint job is incredible. But the mini should have been named: Elanter, The Ham-Fisted Pudge. With those giant hands and chunky looking tummy, its a whole lotta nope from me. Again. Guess I'll have to wait another month. At least Reaper has tons of other minis I "Need!" LAL...
  10. How can you tell the difference between a Bones model and a Metal model when all you can see is a number, sculptor, price, and a pretty picture of a painted model where you cannot see what it is made of and the text doesn't tell you? I'm sorry, but I won't collect plastic bones models. I want metal only, I'm probably not alone in this. I'd like to get 03702: Peryton but only if it is metal.
  11. Well, for one, if it is a mini painting tournament can we paint minis and not have to build huge dioramas or elaborate bases? Hint: this is why I'm not doing the shoe box diorama so I'm out of that tournament until next year.
  12. I would reverse two and three. Do the base the way you want then attach the model then prime. That way you don't have the feet of the model stuck down into the base but look as if it is on top.
  13. <-------- went from bronze to silver level by throwing away my citadel paints and going with Reapers.... and some Vallejos mixed in...
  14. The only thing I'm getting are the metal Sophies. Some of us don't want plastic in our collections. And, yes, they will go on the self and into my games. Fair warning "Twighlight Demons" (You know who you are). Also, those Sophies are already past the "Martin paint examples" stage. PS., Sounds like there will be extras lying around. So here's hoping I see a couple in the melt bin at next years Reapercon.
  15. Rule number one, you have to be a member of wamp to enter. Rule number 7, public vote. This all means that popular wamp persons have an advantage. Thanks but, no thanks. Good luck to all who choose to enter.
  16. So, what gives? Is the USPS being slow again?
  17. Automotive primers are designed to be gap fillers. You can always use Reapers brush on primer with a (50%/50%)/50% mix of (Mix 50%brush on primer with 50% distilled water, then mix that with 50% rubbing alcohol)... and spray that on in the confines of your apartment with an airbrush. Works great! You may want to wear a mask or get a filter system just in case... and always clean your airbrush well.
  18. Another way of saying this: "That Guy" is now Reaper's only painter. No more paint crew. Way less overhead... Nothing but love for you, "That Guy." There are pros and cons to this. Looking forward to seeing how this all plays out, but you can't have it both ways... or can you? What about a featured paint job... but I guess that is what Inspiration Gallery is for...
  19. I guess results vary. Yeah, I don't use automotive or house primers any more. I used Krylon and others on my Warmachine models. I used Tamiya Fine White on my Anima Tactics models. Reaper paints on both. And all models get a good washing... Results: My Anima Tactics models are used 3 times as much and it is the Krylon models that are chipped and showing the metal.
  20. That used to happen to me alot. But as it turns out, I was indeed touching the mini even though I'd punch your "me-mah" to prove I wasn't. And since you are not using a primer, the paint will flake off much easier. Sounds like you are doing things correctly, I think. Paint, then seal. Then paint more. Always use a primer. Do you see bare metal when the paint flakes off? Then you'll need to use a primer. Use Tamiya Fine white spray on primer. You should be able to get cans from ebay or other shops pretty easy. If no bare metal when it flakes off: It could also be the paint itself. Paint
  21. Shrimpy Culvertson, cook/ratter, and Masher. Shrimpy is small and is unable to carry Masher around for too long. Here we see them resting a bit before continuing. Just don't ask what Shrimpy puts in the stew. The model is about 23-24 mm in height (toes to top of head) and has no fingers (flat paddles), neck detail, or eyes (hollow). He's missing a couple of toes too. Enjoy.
  22. Yep, there are a select few who don't mind "ugos" in their collection. I'll buy the wings for this model and melt the rest... So bring out the beer guts, octogenarians(and older), missing teeth, missing limbs, balding, small breasted, etc., and watch the models sit on the store shelf year after year, unsold cause they look "uggghh"... Meanwhile, Patrick has his Bombshell Babes.... Werner has amazons... Kev has dancers... Anyway, just my two cents (which will probably be spent elsewhere ;) ). PS. That nobody agrees with me is some sort of indicator, isn't it?
  23. I found several Reapercon 10, 11 sophies in the melt bin at Reapercon 12. I didn't even save any this time 'cause I want mine to be more rare. I found several earlier sophies (bomber, biker, artist, scifi) the year before. Reaper keeps making them so they aren't that collectible/valuable any more. Just big coolness factor. Just wait until another event happens and Reaper will probably make more (not guaranteed and I hope to be corrected, hint hint reaper bryan). The hardest one to get was the reclining (first) sophie.... the easiest was the tomb raider sophie. I have an extra set of paint
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