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CreganTur

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by CreganTur

  1. I've never completed a Chibi miniature, despite owning both Super Dungeon Explore and Arcadia Quest, and taking a couple Chibi painting classes at past Cons. However, the Golden Kobold competition has given me a reason to finish one of these cute monstrosities as I'm pushing myself to enter more contests. My skintone color selections created a happy accident. The purple was very striking, so I decided to continue with this. From the beginning I knew I wanted a strong OSL from the wand, so I began working up my highlights to be strongest in that direction. I also decided to make the hair blue after the original brown color I tried looked like crap. Thinking about the composition I decided to work with blues, prurples, and reds, trying to keep my light source in mind. When it was time to add the OSL I ran into some unexpected complications. The bright green paint I have is brand new, but the coverage is terrible. Worse than any yellow I've worked with. I ended up mixing in some other greens to get the paint to cover better, which gave a pretty good effect. For the final touches I'm working on a spell effect, but I'm kinda doubting my vision currently. This is about half completed. I need to add a silk bookmark to the center of the open book, as well as some rolled scrolls that I want to have also swirling around in the magic. I've also got to finish painting the green.
  2. This project is now complete- very proud of what I've been able to do.
  3. This is a very well-executed idea so far. Last year I was working on some resin tests and discovered a technique for getting a decent base shape for coral. Fill a cup with chipped ice- there needs to be some space between the ice chips for the resin. Because of the temperature difference it's not going to make it very far down inside the cup, so you'll need to do a few test runs to get good results. The resin comes out with a naturally twisting shape that can easily be worked into some coral.
  4. The rust effect started by doing all the rust over the entire figure, then applying a masking agent- you can use salt masking (which is great but can be hard to control) or by sponge stippling on some silicon mold making compound. After all of the main yellow was painted on I removed the masking to reveal the rust. Next was a lot of brush work to enhance the rust effect.
  5. Had a couple of really good painting sessions over the weekend. Completed Mary: I spent a lot of time debating adding the white tip to her tail, but it makes such a big difference that I'm really happy I did. Also worked on GRITT's backpack. I stippled a couple different browns over the area, which made a really nice effect, then started on some highlights: This is what I've worked up to at this time. Some of the higlights seem too extreme and it seems like I've lost some midtones. Also I want to keep working on the little freehand to make it pop more, as well as ensure the fox tail flourish on the cursive 'M' reads well (Also some of the paints I'm using apparently dry very shiny):
  6. I just use my fingernails to gently remove the built up paint. Been making progress, but not enough that I've wanted to post another picture. Probably tomorrow.
  7. The 2 biggest airbrush tips were: Don't worry about trying to prevent dry-tipping. Just regularly clean off the needle tip as you're working If you think you're starting to clog loosen and pull the needle back a little before reseating it. Then blow it out to get rid of what was starting the clog.
  8. This past weekend I attended a Masterclass by Miniature Monthly. We painted the bust "Mary Fixit and G.R.I.T.T." which consists of 2 characters. Elizabeth Beckley taught traditional painting on the Mary figure, the little fox girl. Contrast is an area where I struggle and I was glad that was a big focus of the 1st day's class. By following along I noticed a big difference in contrast during the first few color transitions on the face: While we weren't able to completely finish the figure I believe I'll be able to take what I've learned and complete her over the next couple of weeks: The 2nd day was Aaron Lovejoy teaching airbrush techniques on GRITT. I've always had a difficult relationship with my airbrush and was really glad Aaron was able to very clearly give direction and advice. Now I feel more confident with my airbrushing, but I know I still need to practice. This was at about the halfway point of GRITT: Putting both pieces together looks really great. I've still got a lot of work to do on both of them, but I feel better prepared to do it. The first thing I'm going to do is repaint the yellow leather on Mary. I'm not satisfied with how it looks as I just couldn't get the paint to work for me. Going to try out some different colors I've found work well when doing yellow. Hopefully I can still get good contrast.
  9. The CMON Expo was a great event, but the best part was the speed painting event. All of the instructors decided to get together and do the speed painting on Sunday just for fun (we didn't enter ours into the competition). It's Robb Stark from Song of Ice and Fire, painted in 90 minutes using battered craft brushes. Left to right (IIRC), they were painted by me, Clay Williams, Elizabeth Beckley-Bradford, Rhonda Bender, and Jen Haley.
  10. I'm getting really close to finishing this project, and it feels great. While I've made a few blunders while trying to use 2 brush blending and loaded brush techniques, which are both relatively new to me, I'm learning and improving. Still left to paint: The pipe The eyes Complete the silver stripes on the head scarf Button holes Final touchups
  11. Chris Clayton sculpted and painted the original Hush. He did an extensive project log that details the entire process, including painting. Can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2dneepqu4kgnq16/hush_cc modelworks bust.pdf?dl=0
  12. A nasty sinus infection knocked me out from painting for a while. Thankfully I'm feeling better now and have made progress on the Pirate bust again. The stripes on the kerchief are just the beginning of a simple silver stripe pattern, based on a historical example I found of a scarf from the 17th century. The hat is nearly done. Now I need to add some glazes of color for the staining and weathering it's endured out on the high seas. I also need to at least base coat the hair before I finish the skin. I know myself and if I complete the skin before doing anything on the hair I'm sure to make a mistake and mark up the skin. The weekend also involved buying a new toaster oven for curing sculpey and making up some example pieces. I'm going to be teaching some sculpting fundamentals at the CMON Expo this year. Made 2 each of the examples- going to paint 1 so people can see the difference between the raw piece and how it looks painted up. Will post pics when they're painted.
  13. Got about halfway finished on the shadows of the vest this weekend when I decided to start playing around on the other parts of the bust. I feel like I've got a good start on the skin. For the hat I think where it's at now will be a great highlight color, so I'll be slowly deepening the shadows.
  14. I've always wanted to paint a bust and recently got a very nice pirate from Pegaso. Because he's a large project I kept him modular. The hat, head, and body are not glued together yet so that I can easily work on them without the risk of getting paint on a related section. Plus, I want to try and do a hint of a tattoo on the exposed chest and don't want an errant hand movement to get that color on the shirt. Started with the belt, as I had a solid idea of what I wanted to try for the leather. So far I'm pleased with how it's progressing. My next big step with it is going to be freehanding an embossed design on the tongue. Also put some base coats on the vest.
  15. Continuing my work on a friend's collection of Pulp themed miniatures has led me into his Oriental area. I decided to start off with the big bad himself, the wise old mastermind. From the very start I knew he'd have to be wearing golden robes. I'll be freehanding an oriental dragon on the chest, as well as doing something with the scroll... I just don't know what at this point.
  16. Been working on my final color choices for the robo-lizard. Feels like I've lost a lot of contrast. Part of that is because I think I used too much white overall and didn't enforce broad contrast on each element. So I'll have to work to fix that using more standard techniques.
  17. Last night I finished up the sketch, which means now I get to play with color! I've known since the beginning of this project that I've wanted the armor of the robo-lizard to be mostly red, which I have done a little shading on in some areas. I'm just not certain what other colors I want to use, so I'm open to suggestions if anyone wants to share. The only other thing that's certain is that the rider's cloak is going to use blue and white.
  18. The sketching is nearly complete! Worked a lot over the weekend, because I'm really excited to start laying in the color. Drybrushing white on the tiny neck scales made it much easier to work on them. I'm going to hit the brightest spots with some titanium white tonight. One side has much higher value than the other. The lower value side will get a cooler mix of colors, as the main light source is coming nearly horizontally to the high value side. Now I'm trying to plan out the colors I want to use. From the beginning I've wanted the main scales of the robo-lizard to be red, so I'm thinking about a red, purple, and blue palette, but I'm not set on that, yet. I've got a plan for the cape, which will be white and blue, but there will be some special techniques involved to make it striking.
  19. Haven't been able to paint on my lunch break the past couple of days, but was happily able to get back to it today! I switched off using the airbrush paint and am now using a white from Army Painter, which is much easier to work with. Only downside is that a tiny ball of paint likes to dry on the tip of my brush, so lots of extra cleanings are required. Tonight I'm going to carefully drybrush the edges of the myriad tiny plates beneath the neck of this creature. This will allow me to define them so I can see them easier.
  20. @Kuche This was all done with a normal brush- I'm just using a white paint specifically marketed for airbrushing.
  21. Remembered to pack up my flow improver before heading to work today, which helped. I think the real issue with this white paint is just that it's pre-mixed for airbrushing, so it's additives are different than the normal Vallejo/other manufacturers I use. I only picked this paint because I've got a ton of it. And it will work perfectly for this learning project. I went back over a number of the panels to try and increase the contrast, as well as smooth it out a bit. I feel like I'm starting to get the hang of this.
  22. Ever since I saw the Painting Buddah video for Red Chaos Armor, I've wanted to try it. This St. Mark mini has been sitting in my collection since my very first CMON Expo 3 years ago, and I figured it would be the perfect piece to try this out on. So, after eating quickly I setup my mobile painting station in the breakroom where I work and got to sketching. I'm really happy with how it's gone so far, but I realized I need to bring my little pre-mixed bottle of flow improver for the white. I'm using an airbrush white- some random manufacturer Hobby Lobby carries. It's good, but dries a tad too quickly. Once I get everything done, the robo-drake will get glazes of red for the armor.
  23. Working on a commission for a friend of mine, painting up his collection of pulp era miniatures (most from PulpFigures). The latest batch are some Nazi Rocketeers! [/img]
  24. Check the product page- they have numerous photos from multiple painters with various angles.
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