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Everything posted by timmy65

  1. Wow, those are awesome. You had me laughing the whole way through while admiring the wonderful job you've done!
  2. I too will be following along with great interest. Best of luck to you!
  3. How about Reaper's limited edition color 9651 Hallowed Orange for the Jack O Lanterns?
  4. I just receieved my Iwata airbrush in the mail today from Amazon.com, and whoa is this thing nice. http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/dp/B000BQKFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308972637&sr=8-1
  5. In addition to what's been said about these, here's my two cents: [*]Model Color - Get used to shaking the heck out them... You'll develop a huge arm! It's better than a shake-weight I added hematite bead agitators to all of mine. Then I built a paint shaker. My arms were getting so sore from shaking the Model Colors that I built a paint shaker as well out of an empty medicine pill bottle attached to my Makita Recpirocating saw. You really do have to shake the heck out of them. I use them because of the wonderful WW2 colors.
  6. Wizards actually has a starter adventure geared for young players called the Heroes of Hesiod. I ran it for my Wife and kids some time ago after we had printed out and colored the characters, monsters and map. It was great fun. The below link to to the .pdf download. It sounds like you all had a great time! http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Article.aspx?x=dnd/4dnd/monsterslayers
  7. Dungeons and Dragons Castle Ravenloft and Wrath of Ashardalon both handle from 1 to 5 players as the encounter decks control the monster behavior. No Dungeon Master is required. They are both cooperative games. IE, your party of adventurers against the monsters and encounters that the game system attacks you with. A game can easily be played in well under 2 hours with a group that knows and understands the rules. If your into painting the miniatures, there is over 40 in each game if memory serves me correct. I just finished the 5 heroes in Castle Ravenoft and am working on the Rat Swarms currently with lots more miniatures to go. Hope this helps.
  8. As someone who is a beginner trying to revive some modeling skills from over 35 years ago I can tell you what I did to get started. I went to the local dollar store and bought a bag of plastic army men. The next trip was to the local Wally World for some Apple Barrel craft paints at .97 cents a bottle. Add in some decent nylon brushes from there as well and I was up and running for around 10 or 11 dollars. I've since moved on to better brushes, paints etc. as I found painting miniatures to be strangly relaxing. The next step will be to combine the figures with some models to create some diaoramas. Another good option for figures is to buy boardgames that come with them such as the Dungeons and Dragons Castle Ravenloft or Wrath of Ashardalon games. The 2 boardgames combined have over 80 figures to paint and the games are fun to play as well. For me the most useful tool has been an Optivisor with 2x magnification. Best of luck to you!
  9. Actually, the selection of brushes was so poor in my opinion compared to what is available online ( I wanted to pick up some more Da Vinci series 10 brushes to paint with as I'm a beginner that is trying to get used to using larger size brushes as well), that I only bought 1 brush to dedicate to drybrushing. It was a Windsor Newton Monarch Series Synthetic Mongoose brush #2 with a flat tip. Please do keep the suggestions coming. Thanks to all!
  10. I'll be within range of a Dick Blick store tomorrow and was looking to pick up some paint brushes for trying out some drybrushing never having done it before. Does anyone have any suggestions on brushes and sizes that they like to use that I could purchase there? Thank you.
  11. You'll get better coverage with VMC if you use the Vallejo thinner instead of water. Excellent paints to use in my opinion even when thinned with water.
  12. Here's where I bought mine from. http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-brush-cleaner-and-restorer/
  13. One word of caution when considering buying a used computer. Make sure that you receive the operating system disk or the restore disks with it if you decide to buy. Not to mention the installation key if it's a Windows based computer. Good luck.
  14. I had a chance to spend some more time with the 3 washes today, and both the Citadel and Vallejo washes are more forgiving and beginner friendly when applied by me and my beginner skills. Judicious application of water helped out the Reaper Brown Wash and produced better results this time than the last. Of the 3 I like the results of the Vallejo the best, however when I asked my wife which one she thought looked the best, she choose the Reaper washed one, so I don't doubt that the results are very subjective. I'm sorry that I don't have any pics to show. I'm going to have to get a new digital camera with a decent macro mode. I couldn't get anything in focus that was worth posting. Thanks to everyone.
  15. Thanks for the speedy reply! Depending on how the classes are being taught It might not be as tough as you would think with the right equipment setup. We have several of these Elmo devices at work and I think that they would be the hot ticket for recording some of your classes, provided the instructor stayed in a fixed location, such as at the front of the room. http://www.elmousa.com/digital-visual-presenters.php
  16. Please forgive me if this question has been asked before. Will the classes at ReaperCon be recorded and made available for purchase on DVD or via digital download? There are several that I would like to attend, however a trip down to Texas isn't a possibility this summer. Thanks, Tim
  17. Hmmm, interesting... I'll let Anne comment on the cold affecting them possibly, but I'm thinking they were meant to act more like the old Ral Partha "Inks" that came out in the late 90s IIRC. Those were pretty awesome, but thicker than you would expect. You just painted them on and let them dry. They had a medium mixed in which assured an even distribution of the pigment, but felt a little like you were washing with varnish. The end result was very smooth, though. However, if you need the Reaper washes to be less dark I'd suggest adding the Flow Improver directly to the palette. (I assume you were adding them to the bottles.) I use Flow Improver straight into my RMS paints like this with no problems. 1-2 drops usually. However, this is a new product, so YMMV. Maybe you could post a pic or two so we can see what's going on? I'm looking forward to testing these washes myself at Reapercon. Take care, Laszlo Thank you for taking the time to reply Laszlo. I followed the link that you provided and copied this text from it. "The problem most people have with artist inks is them drying in patches all over the model or drying around the recesses instead of in them, forming rings of ink around your recesses." That's pretty much what the brown and black wash did when I tried them. When I tried thinning them with water they dried leaving tide marks and splotches everywhere. Perhaps I used too much water, although I think I only went with a drop or two on the pallete, not in the bottles. Yes I did make a rookie mistake putting the flow improver directly into the bottles. First 2 drops in each, then 2 more for a total of 4 drops. It seemed to help and to get things going in the right direction, but by then I ran out of painted miniatures to test on. The results remind me of a piece of wood that has been stained using a water based stain where the grain of the wood is porus in various degrees leaving the finish results to be splotchy and uneven. The viscosity of the washes is too thick to allow them to flow properly into the recess areas on the miniatures and drying uneven all over is what I was experiencing. Sadly I can't provide any photos as I dropped them into Simple Green after doing them all. The only thing I have is the cardstock sheet that shows the brown wash to be darker straight out of the bottle than the other two washes. I think the real issue is the right viscosity, it just doesn't flow properly for me. The bottles I have are definately not a match for Devlan Mud. They are too thick. I could get very good results with Devlan Mud either straight out of the pot with it or diluted 3 parts wash to 2 parts water. That ratio also produced excellent results with the Vallejo Umber Wash. I understand that this is all subjective and what a beginner like me thinks looks good may not be all that hot to a pro such as yourself, but even on the first attempt at this with Devlan Mud and a little tuning of the Umber Wash I'm getting pleasing results. They both roll off of the high parts of the miniature and flow into the recess areas. They both seem to be a little more like beginner friendly products to me. I'll reprime white the miniatures that I just stripped and try washing over the primer to see if I can recreate what is going on and see if I can post pictures of them for all to see later this week. I'll try adding water to the wash on my palette as suggested and see how it goes. Thanks again, Tim
  18. I recently purchased the RMS Wash Triad from Minature-Giant and got to testing it out yesterday along side the Vallejo Umber Wash and Citadel's Devlan Mud. I'm a beginning painter and have watched some video's online showing the washing technique as well as Laslo's Hot Lead DVD set that I purchased where he demonstrates using paint. I took a piece of white cardstock and printed on it using my inkjet printer several lines of text in order to test the value of how dark the 3 washes were straight out of the bottles / pot. Laslo uses newspaper in the DVD's to test the value of a wash, so I figured that this would be a good test. I also observed the washes as I dropped them onto the side walls of my palatte to see if gravity would have an effect on them as well as moving them around with the same Reaper Master Series #2 nylon paintbrush. The last test was a group of Artizan WW2 Paratroopers that I painted using Vallejo Kakhi to see how the washes would perform on actual figures. The Vallejo and Citadel were both far more viscious than the Reaper Brown Wash and slid down the side walls of the palatte wells. The Reaper Brown Wash on the other hand was much thicker and clinged to the side of the palette wells with gravity having little effect. Painted on to the cardstock showed the Reaper Brown Wash to be much darker then either the other 2 washes. So then I figured that It needed to be thinned down a bit with some distilled water to get it to flow better. That was a mistake as when I tried in on one of my Paratroopers it dried leaving tide marks everywhere. I figured that I would try the Black Wash to see if there was any difference and it reacted the same way, it's far too thick even after shaking until both my arms felt like they are going to fall off. The Flesh Wash on the other hand, performs beautifully and appears to be far more viscious right out of the bottle like the Valljo and Citadel washes. I then tried putting 2 drops of Reaper Flow Improver into the Brown and Black Washes and they are still too thick. 2 more drops in both bottles and they are beginning to move around more like the competitors products, but still not as good. Is it possible that I got 2 bad bottles or they were effected by the cold? I'm seeing good results with the Vallejo Umber Wash mixed 3 parts wash to 2 parts distilled water and the Citadel works pretty well right out of the pot for me, other than it smells bad. These 2 bottles of wash are the only Reaper products that I've been disappointed with. I really would prefer to use the Reaper washes as they are made in the USA and are supposed to be good to go right out of the bottle according to the above post. My wife and I try very, very hard to purchase American made products and all the other Reaper ones I've purchased so far have been top notch. Any suggestions on what I could try next? As it stands I wouldn't use either the Brown or Blash Washes on a figure that I didn't plan on stripping as it would look like a splotched bad paintjob. The Flesh Wash on the other hand looks great. Sorry for the new guy long post, but this forum is by the the friendliest and most helpful one I've been on anywhere in cyberspace. A special "thank you" to you Anne. I've learned more from reading your friendly, helpful posts than anywhere else on the net.
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