Akiosama
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Posts posted by Akiosama
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Absolutely fantastic work. I was a bit underwhelmed when I saw the first mini, myself, but after seeing your paint job, I'm definitely a fan.
The second mini - "The Plaid Piper of Ord" - is also a very nice miniature. I'll be curious to see how long of a streak of interesting miniatures they'll be able to maintain.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama-
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Given your fondness for painting plaid, you might see if you can try to get the 2nd Minicrate miniature as well. The second miniature is a female variant of the Piper of Ord Warmachine figure called the "Plaid Piper of Ord".
See the second image in the Minicrate section. It's a pretty nice mini, and comes with a Trollblood Whelp with a greatsword as a sidekick!
My 2 yen,
Akiosama-
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GW uses Deathworld Forest or their new Death Guard Green. They're fairly similar - the DGG is a tad lighter, apparently. Also, apparently a 1:1 mix of DWF and Nurgling Green will give you something approximate to DGG, if you already own those colors.
Per Bolter and Chainsword
Vallejo Heavy Khaki is very close to DGG.EDIT: Reading further down, the posts state that the color swatches provided by Vallejo aren't a very good match to the actual color and that Vallejo Heavy Gray came out closer to DGG than Heavy Khaki.Hope this helps.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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On 11/2/2017 at 11:51 AM, Gargs said:
This is pure gold. Its real easy to obsess and fret over minis "What if the paint job is bad, my $3.29 mini will be wasted!" but the thing is, we'll never get better unless we practice. Its true of any skill.
Over twenty years of unpainted miniatures are a testament to how hard this thought process is to break.
And that's after having only one miniature that I've ever painted that has actually turned my stomach... For some reason, ice blue skin and purple claws/chitin just did not work on a Hormugant. I think I ended up burying it deep in a box of unpainted Tyranid minis...
My 2 yen,
Akiosama-
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For those who are interested, I found this article about magnetizing KD:M if you're so inclined. Seems like it would be an interesting way to get players invested in the miniatures even more.
https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1694918/magnetizing-kingdom-death-monster-survivors-primer
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The best beginner one is definitely the Anne/Jen video. Jessica's is probably #2.
The Marike one is good, but I think, as Wren said, she's not as natural a teacher as the others, so the flow of the verbal instructions left gaps, IMO. It wasn't a bad tutorial by any means (I think that would have to be the first from the series where they show you minis painted from start to finish - not Jen Haley's, but the other teacher's. I don't remember what the name of the series was, but it was kind of like 'watch me and figure out what I'm doing').
Now, if we could just get Derek to do one...
As for the Miniature Mentor videos, they're decent, but they tend to suffer from three issues - 1) They seem to be typically using a different style than most videos/tutorials I'm used to seeing - it's often a very European style with many, many thin layers (think almost painting with washes); 2) Nearly all the people have strong accents making them harder to understand (many are not native English speakers - except Jen Haley, whose monochrome ranger was awesome); and 3) the host tends to talk a lot, and sometimes interrupts the painter, and also sometimes needs to be corrected by the painter. But there are a lot of videos and they cover many different aspects of miniature painting, sculpting, basing, and actual model kit painting, as well.
That being said, the amount of painting tutorial videos is pretty extensive out there and good for various levels. Miniature Monthly is also worth looking into, as is Sorastro, who does a lot of videos for tabletop level painting using popular gaming figures such as Zombicide, Arcadia Quest, and Imperial Assault.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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For me, the biggest loss to come from Reaper not being able to continue their RPG line is that there is less artwork available by Tim "Talin" Collier out there. It was his art (much like Matt Wilson's art for the original Iron Kingdoms) that made me pick up that module and wait for the next one that didn't ever materialize.
His art is some of my favorite fantasy art out there. I like how he does faces, especially.
Would personally love to see a published art book of work he's done for Reaper someday (hint, hint).
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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One interesting note regarding varnish - I've noticed in Privateer Press' painting guides in their WarmaHordes books that they recommend sealing metallics before painting on the final highlights to allow the highlights to be as bright as possible. Has anyone noticed a difference by doing it this way rather than just painting and highlighting first and sealing at the very end?
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One thing I didn't see on your list but might be worth it to look into is masking fluid.
Masking tape and plastic wrap will work good for most cases, but having a fluid that will actually sit on the miniature surface without letting paint stick to it is really useful. Was introduced to it in the Angel Giraldez Masterclass books - Vallejo makes one that seems to work pretty well.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Also, keep in mind that given that the Modo stuff is lacquer based, it's tough to get imported into the country, due to toxicity (I think). I've seen tons of issues in the past with the Gunze Sangyo paint lines (makers of many of the official Gundam Paint sets) until they switched them to Acrylic from Lacquer. I think the modelers in Japan still like the Lacquer stuff, though, more than the acrylic, but it's been a while since I've investigated. The Gundam Marker sets are acrylic though, and are somewhat available here in the US as paint pens.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Just curious, since I've seen it mentioned before, a good shade color can be achieved mixing in a complementary color, but does that work for purple, since yellow is its complementary color?
(Also, I'm wondering if using a complementary colors to create the shade would possibly help with the chalkiness issue as well?)
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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One other thing to remember with painting minatures/models, in regards to color shade and model size, is that the size of the model does affect our perception of the color due to the increase in the amount of light reflecting back off the larger surfaces on larger models. (I think this explains why vehicles look brighter than individual figures when painted with the same shade of paint.)
In essence, the smaller the model, the darker the color is going to look.
This isn't as much of an issue with miniatures as it is with scale models, but there could be some effect going from a 15mm or 28mm figure to a 72mm figure if you're trying to hit the same shades of color.If you use the same paint shade for a mini on an anime scale 1/8 figure, you're likely to get a skin shade that looks a bit too bright.
For an explanation of this from a scale modeling view, this article explains the concept pretty well.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Personally, I'm with buglips and prime and paint before assembly whenever possible, but I'm a tad bit of a perfectionist, and I subscribe to the following:
-David Eddings, Pawn of Prophecy
“Always do the very best job you can,†he said on another occasion as he put a last few finishing touches with a file on the metal parts of a wagon tongue he was repairing.
“But that piece goes underneath,†Garion said. “No one will ever see it.â€
“But I know it’s there,†Durnik said, still smoothing the metal. “If it isn’t done as well as I can do it, I’ll be ashamed every time I see this wagon go by-and I’ll see the wagon every day.â€
Needless to say, I have more unfinished minis than some small gods (usually turtles), and more coming every month, it seems.
I did ask Angel Giraldez of Corvus Belli fame (Infinity) and he said that he pre-assembles nearly all the minis he paints, despite using an airbrush for a large portion of his painting style, because even with the masking processes he goes through "it's faster than assembling after". Also, I think it lets him see all the colors together to ensure that his paint scheme works - he shows a lot of quick temporary base coating steps to check paint scheme in his step-by-steps in his Masterclass - Volume 2 book.
So, each to their own, I think.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Already part of it.
Also, for those who haven't looked at it, they're offering some of their existing models as add-ons at significant discount.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Looking good, Cro. =) Glad you finally are showing off your stuff!
Glad you're enjoying the hobby!
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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I'll dropper some water into the bottle - I've been thinning it on my palette anyhow. I actually did send a message here, but I hadn't heard back.
It's not a huge deal - it's more of a case of not wanting to call something out that's acting like it should. This is primer, so I wasn't sure if it was supposed to be a bit thicker.
Thanks for the replies, everyone!
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Derek's technique and style are what I aspire to as a miniature painter.
Awesome work, Derek! Your work amazes me every time I see a new piece. Maybe one of these years I can get to ReaperCon to attend one of your classes. (Ironic that we're both in CA, but that I'll probably end up in TX before I get to shake your hand.)
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Hello all,
I bought an Additives Triad the a little while back - I think it was late March - and I was surprised at the consistency of the Brush-on Primer that came in it. I used it right away, and it didn't form drops out of the bottle, but rather it oozed out of the dropper, acting more solid than liquid - it reminded me of squeezing toothpaste from a tube, with it coming out of the bottle in a snake-like fashion rather than drops.
Is this normal with the Brush-on Primer? It's just been difficult to measure water ratios with the primer acting like this, and with this being the first time I've used Reaper's Brush-on Primer, I'm not sure if the results I've had are typical for this product. It seems to cover metal ok, but on plastics - specifically the plastic used by Privateer Press - it doesn't cling to the miniature, rather it seems to bead like water on glass. (I'll be re-cleaning the pieces to ensure it's not some sort of release issue, but the PP minis seem to have a smooth, gloss-like finish on them that seems to repel the brush-on primer from sticking. I've had the same issue in the past with brush-on paints on my Gundam scale-models, if they're not spray primed first.)
Any advice would be helpful - I like being able to prime by brush. I don't always have the time to spray paint - I usually get the bug to paint at odd hours.
Thanks in advance!
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Appreciate the help - found one store that kinda fits the bill - Comic Emporium on the outskirts of Panama City - though they stock primarily GW. They used to stock Reaper, and will special order, as they will with Privateer, but they haven't had enough demand to keep them on stock.
Thanks again for the help. Not sure about N. Florida geography, but I'll convey the message about Ft. Walton, too. I also know that Tallahassee has a couple places as well.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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I definitely used the Reaper Store finder - it's just that I came across the same issues that Darsc mentioned. I cross checked it against my own area (Los Angeles) and there were stores that didn't show up, because their participation with Reaper either isn't directly from Reaper, or they only carry a limited amount of Reaper things. (I actually have to go 30 miles out of my way to find a retailer who carries Reaper paints, or order them online, for example).
With that being said, I thought it would be a good idea to ask and see if there's anyone in that area on these forums.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Hello all,
I wasn't sure where to put this, but this forum seemed as good as any. Please feel free to move it to the appropriate location.
I have a friend in the Panama City Beach, FL area, and she's trying to get into miniatures, and perhaps even miniature gaming. Does anyone know of any hobby stores in that area that stock miniatures (PP and Reaper miniatures more specifically)? Hopefully there is at least one store up there that handles the miniature gaming hobby close by.
I did get her some minis and a paint kit from Reaper online, but I would like for her to have a local place as well, if that's possible.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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Haha. Nick Fury underwent some serious pigmentation changes between that movie and the current Marvel movie franchise. That in itself is amusing, but even more so, when I heard that Marvel rebooted Nick Fury in the comic books to look more like Samuel L. Jackson, too. They usually don't change characters THAT much.
And the Hoff looks pretty old in that movie - especially in that running pose in the center of the poster. Makes him look like he's stiffly ambling along like an older person.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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That is amazing. The tartan is great, and I especially like the sheer fabric and skin tones.
Hey, I'm a guy.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
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This movie was awesome. Great banter - reminded me of the good ol' Firefly days. The action sequences were great, and the plot sufficient for the movie.
Was surprised to see Scarlett Johansen on the screen as much as she was. Not bad, but she didn't look as good to me as she did in Iron Man 2 . I actually was more swayed by Gwynneth Paltrow in the first scene in Stark Tower. That outfit was cute.
But it was a great superhero movie from start to finish, to rival, or maybe even overtake the Dark Knight. I look forward to seeing where the franchise goes, especially if they can hold on to Joss Whedon.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama
Evilhalfling builds, and plays kingdom of death
in Works in Progress: Painting
Posted
Here's an article on fully magnetizing KD:M. It's a huge endeavor, but I could see how it could make things much more immersive for the players.
https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1694918/magnetizing-kingdom-death-monster-survivors-primer
Hope this helps.
My 2 yen,
Akiosama