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ClauseRose

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About ClauseRose

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    Rabble Rouser
  • Birthday 05/03/1990

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  1. I used Games Workshop paints and didn't seal it. I looked all over online and none of the tutorials I saw said anything about sealing, so I didn't bother. The liquid is just water with 3 drops of glycerin, after all, and Bones are pretty resilient.
  2. I made this for a friend of mine for Christmas. She loves everything wild west and Christmas, so cowgirl in a snow globe. Ellen Stone comes from the first Bones Kickstarter and the theming elements are sculpy.
  3. Bones are still pretty rigid, and half of what I ran over fractured at the weakest joint, where leg meets base. I cannot speak for LE, though, just bones
  4. Don't you just love declension and etymology? I like the translation fata, or whatever the proper form is, for elf because it fits a little better for the Norse concept than spiritus. And elf as Fay isn't all that modern, really. Take the tuatha de dannan, who are, by modern reckoning, very elflike in concept. They become the aes sídhe and develop into faeryish beings. The names may be different, but the concept is the same. To conclude: I'm not a fan of attempted modernized Latin, let it rest with the other dead languages. Instead, we should all use French
  5. I've done custom action figures, which are obviously much thicker, and boil them to pop the joints. For bones, put about a cup of water in the microwave for about 4 minutes on high. Chuck the bone in, and let it sit for a while. With the spider, once the thick part starts to move you know you'll be fine. Fish it out and reposition quickly, it'll cool down real fast and hold the position while in the cold water
  6. I thought I knew a lot about color, but that just blew my mind
  7. Bones mounted on pewter: still an effective bond, but not as rigid as metal to metal and not as strong as bones to bones. Where bones is the dominant surface, i.e. wings and stuff like that, going into pewter, the bond should be better. Any of you who got any of the winged demons and who have the same model in metal may want to test this out
  8. Pine-Sol, that stuff eats through anything, and will act as a test to check how stripping bones using metal methods works
  9. I come down on the centar side of the argument, I can't dispute the IPA representation of it, but, that is the American/Canadian English pronunciation. However, I don't say bury as "berry", it's bURy
  10. I do not have either, but as long as your glue isn't old, it cures pretty quick (I glued the bases of two together)
  11. What do you mean activactors and deactivators?
  12. I'm relatively free the next few days if anyone has suggested tests they want to see. Just let me know
  13. Last of my ideas for testing: boil and reposition after painting/sealing. Bends no differently than before. The paint has been disrupted. I do not know if this is because that's just what happens all the time or if my sealant wasn't really cured (it's been quite some time so I don't think that's the issue), but, as instinct encourages boil your Bones PRIOR to painting. Finally, mold lines: I don't use files so I cannot tell you how easy they would be to use for removing mold lines. However, I can only think that files would be difficult. I would suggest an Xacto knife on it's side and slowly resculpting the line down to nothing
  14. This is the aftermath post, very large pictures, do be warned. This way you can all see the damage. This is the Primed and Not Sealed one. There is a lot of scarring to the paint, but very little to the figure itself, which surprises me, clean it up a bit and it will look nearly fresh out of the blister. Primed and Sealed: Survived a little better than the other primed. The arm that is a separate piece is still attached, but there was a stress fracture on the ankle. Easily fixed, but worth noting. Some warping on the base that I suspect will return to normal very quickly. Not primed and was sealed: By far the best condition of the five. The only point to show damage is the left knee, and they all show wear there. Some warping that is already returning to normal, but for the most part undamaged. This is definitely how I plan to do my bones. No primer or sealer: Almost an imperceptible difference between this and the last one. Little more damage to the knee, some on the hair, and a bit on the cloak fold but not much more. This kinda surprises me. I also ran over the hammered metal one, and that actually looks like I did nothing to it, so definitely a viable paint scheme. When you all get your bony hordes, I greatly recommend not priming them. It looks like the primer is what failed more than the paint adhesion. For storage, a bucket of bones is definitely possible. I would still seal everything, but there should be almost no chipping if you threw them all in a bucket, unlike metal where a 6 inch fall onto a pillow will ruin that bit that took hours to finish.
  15. This is everything before being run over. The red one on the table and the blue on the right are both sealed. Just the one with hammered metal paint. I think it would work very easily for quick statues. Looks pretty cool and sticks very well to Bones. This is the washed one with more ink than the first pic. A little better, but still mostly pooling in the recesses. I do think, that given an extraordinary amount of patience, one could come up with a camouflage pattern through successive washes very easily. This one is unpainted. I know plastic will yellow in the sun and because my stuff gets some sun with where I have it, I'd like to see what having sun bet down on it will do. The unprimed and sealed model will set in my window for the next month to see if a painted figure is any different.
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