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Captain jOE

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Posts posted by Captain jOE

  1. The matte additive isn't the same as matte medium.


    In the MSP line, the matte sealer is the closest thing to matte medium if you want to add matte medium to a wash to help keep the wash from being so dilute that the pigment starts to fall out or to give the wash some adhesion to crevasses. I generally use Liquitex matte medium with equal parts of water for washes.


    The matte additive is to make a glossy paint more matte, and you only need a very very small amount for it to work or things go frosty.



    If you mean "anti-shine additive" then it's neither the weather nor a bad bottle. Ron is right - it's definitely not matte medium. Using it like matte medium is doomed to fail. The '5 to 10 drops' you've read about is only for matte mediums like Liquitex, Winsor & Newton, maybe Vallejo, but not Reaper Master Series Anti-Shine Additive.


    Anti-shine contains ingredients similar to those in Testor's Dull-cote or other finishing or 'varnish' sprays. It's just super-concentrated, made only to knock down the shine of certain paints that look a little too glossy when applied to a mini. Think of it this way - that little bottle is enough to make about 20 cans of Dull-cote (just guessing at that number, don't quote me on it). Putting 10 drops of Anti-shine in the paint for any part of a mini is like putting half a can of Dull-cote on it. Result: InstaFrost.


    One drop in a puddle of paint and water should be enough, depending on the size of the puddle. On my wet palette, I work with very small puddles, just a couple of drops of paint and water, so one brushload of Anti-shine is often enough.


    This makes perfect sense. Thanks for clearing that up. That would definitly explain the results I got when I added it to the black that I used to paint the base. Worked quite well for what it was supposed to do. ::):

  2. Ok, I did some of what you guys suggested. And if appears to be a bad pot. Or the slightly humid weather is killing it. But if it's that weather dependent it's of no use to me.


    I really shook up the pot. So long that it's unrealistic to use while painting. Still didn't help.


    Oh well, it was just an experiment anyway. I seem to be able to get along just fine with flow improver and water for my glazes.


    I'll just dump it out and use the pot for mixes.

  3. Just started a new miniature today. I've been told in multiple places to add a matte additive to glazes (like 5-10 drops). I tried this out today and it caused the paint to dry real frosty, almost white, and ruin what was under it. Now I tried this for the first time with some of the new Citidel paints. I don't know if this was the problem but I'm scared to experiement at this point.


    Is this a bad pot? Wrong usage of the additive? Or just a bad mix of paint brand and additive?

  4. Just looking for some help on painting metallics. My biggest problem is trying to decide where and how to highlight flat surfaces with sharp edges (eg. our friend the sword and his cohort of weapons). The particular model I am working on is Jerach the Undead Hunter. http://www.reapermin.../sku-down/03148. I'm having a hard time grasping where I should highlight the blades, especially with the added two sides to this six sides blade. Another thing I don't know how to address is how to highlight the part of the blade that faces the ground.


    Any articles and theory that you could offer so that I don't have so much trouble in the future would be much appreciated.


    Captain jOE

  5. The way he turned out makes me wonder if I shouldn't have gotten the Avatar of Aurellius....(goes and looks at the Avatar again)...ok maybe not. But I may have to get both now :P .


    Like the others said. The mettallics and purple are really cool. Are you using Reaper metallic paints, or some other brand?

  6. Yeah...hi it's me again ::P:


    Kuro Cleanbrush bought me a crusaders army as a graduation gift. While it's being shipped to me I wanted to buy all of the paints I need. While I have always used GW paints (only thing sold at my LGS) I really liked the reaper paints I bought and used on Fargus. So I wanted to use purely reaper paints on my army.


    While looking for inspiration material for my D&D paladin mini. I came across this picture.



    Original artist's devian art page: http://liquidology.d...oncept-96355105\


    I fell in love with that scheme immediately and really want to paint up my crusaders like that. So I'm looking for advice on what paints to buy because I can't buy them first hand (obviously).


    I believe 09120 Coppery Orange would work for the armor (I'll probably just buy the Collored Metallics One triad). But I could use a good shade and highlight color for it. (and confirmation that it's a good color match to the pic)


    I believe the Gold-Toned triad will also fill my gold needs. (again, confimation needed)


    I could also use a good red and black triad.



    Also I believe I'm going back on the pearl armor for my paladin in lieu of more of an ivory scheme like this. (yes that is the same paladin as in the other thread, just a different "in-game" shot of her)




    I wanted a reaper triad with the main color roughly the same color as GW's bleached bone. I believe the Ivory Bone Triad is what I'm looking for. But again, I want confirmation before I buy.



    Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer.


    And thanks for putting up with this rather inquisitive painter.

  7. I'm painting up Jerach the Undead Hunter as a paladin for a D&D campaign. I wanted to give him white armor like these Fire Emblem characters (more like the first than the second).




    I kinda have an idea of how to go about it, but any advice that you guys could give me would be awesome :D.

  8. Been a while since I last posted, but here is my latest work. I converted the Goldar the Barbarian model by adding hair, a necklace, and by crafting a new axehead with GW dwarf bits. I'll be using him as a barbarian in a pathfinder campaign that Kuro is being the DM for.


    As far as the painting is concerned, I tried to stretch my abilities with this model by using more glazes and learning two brush blending. I tried two brush blending for the first time on the blue cloth and red leather. So let me know what you guys think of those areas in particular. (EDIT: those didn't photograph too well, they do look better in RL. I might try to get more accurate photos tomorrow)


    I also delved into TMM for the first time, and I have to say that I'm pretty happy with the results.


    Sadly some of the imperfections of the model only really stood out after I started painting so I had to kinda leave them and move on, not too happy about that :/ .







    Backstory: (for those interested. This will be rather lengthy; It is posted mainly for Kuro)


    Standing 6' 10” and weighing in at 305 lbs, Fargus is virtually a giant among men. He grew up in a port town as the son of a blacksmith and oldest of four children. This taxing line of work and rough environment did much to prepare him for what lay ahead, but not even he could have been prepared for what fate had in store for him.


    Fargus's father had long been on the “hit list” of a local noblemen for crafting and selling weapons to local rebels and anarchists who opposed his reign. It was nearing Fargus's 20th birthday when this nobleman made his move.


    Fargus was out collecting supplies and taking an order for a local shipbuilder when he was taken by one of the nobleman's press-gangs. While the ship was being loaded, Fargus's young sister saw him chained and ready to be taken aboard a large vessel. His sister told him that she would run and find their father and brothers. Slipping him her necklace (a gold pendent with a star ruby inset, an heirloom of the family) she said, "If we don't come in time, this star will guide you home." Though it took a while to load the vessel, help never came. Fargus doubted if he would ever see his father, sister, or two brothers again.


    Fargus was soon put to work as a slave aboard the vessel as one of the oarsmen. He was strong and hardy and performed this task quite well. The taskmasters left him alone, until they discovered the “purty jewel” he stilll maintained possession of. When they attempted to take it, Fargus would fly into uncontrollable rages. After Fargus nearly killed one of these men with his bare hands, the captain gave orders to “leave the chained madman alone, you'll get your trinket when he's been worked to death” . Figuring they could speed this process along, they used the whips on Fargus far more then they had before. Fargus still bears many scars and gashes from these ruthless beatings. He, however, endured longer than he held their interest. (This part is tentative to change based on how far along the DM deems that boats would have been at this time. If ships were far enough along, Fargus will still have served as a sailor in slavery aboard this vessel, but still with similar dealings with those aboard)


    One fateful night, nearly three years since he was first enslaved, Fargus escaped while the ship was docked at a port. Fargus shattered his weakened chains with his raw strength, stole a prize weapon from the captain's quarters (the ax he still bears), killed the few sailors who opposed him, and slipped ashore. In retrospect, Fargus regrets that he didn't free the others, but at the time he reasoned that he couldn't afford to start enough of a disturbance to warrant the local law and the captain having to search the surrounding area for slaves.


    Afterward, Fargus lived several months in the wild before returning to the port town to buy passage on a ship. He is now homeward bound, dreading to learn the fates of those he left behind, and hungering to exact revenge on those who have wronged him....

    • Like 1
  9. You made me stay up late enough waiting for this... :angry: (ok, not really, you know me. I don't like to go to bed)


    But Svar is super cool! The greying beard turned out really well as did the eyes. The second pic also makes it look like his eye is twinkling. Too bad that's probably just camera trickery. I also like the crossbow, the black with silver edging looks cool.

  10. This is my first effort at painting in a few months. I'm posting the WIP photos here so I can get some real quick help and show Kuro the progress I've made so far.


    I'm pretty happy with the hair, I just need to go back and add a bit of shading in a few spots. However, I can't figure out how I should paint the "halo" effect on his hair style. Any help on that subject would be appreciated :D.


    Oh, and dat second photo...his left eye (the one on the right for us :P) looks pretty crazy. While I might say this is the camera showing me some faults, I seriously went and stared at the figure for like half an hour trying to figure out how that eye looked that way in the photo. It just doesn't...so just chalk that up to camera tricks. Never had the camera do something like that to me before though. :blink:



    • Like 1
  11. Excellent job on all of them! For some of your first minis those are excellent to say the least. I would have loved it if my figues had turned out that good in my first year.


    I would encourage you to push your shading. You especially want to push the shading on the flesh mainly to define features and expressions for the human eye to pick up on. Try washing the flesh with a red brown after you paint the basecoat of the skin. Follow that by reapplying the basecoat color on all raised surfaces. This will help bring better contrast and definition to the mini. You can apply this process this on pretty much every surface (varying the color of your wash accordingly).


    Instead of a wash, you can shade by painting a darker color than the original in the recesses. You should note that this is the prefered method of shading, but requires more brush control (hence why I explained "washing" first, it's more newbie friendly :;): )


    Often times I'll even use a mix of the two depending on the situation.


    Also, blacklining between features like a robe and flesh, or a shirt and coat will help elements of the model to be better defined from each other.


    Just to define terms:


    A wash is paint that has been thinned down so much that it wants to pool in the recesses of the figure. Paint companies also sell pre-formulated washes.


    Blacklining is taking a dark color (it doesn't have to be black, it could be brown, grey, green, etc depending on the surrounding colors) and painting a fine line between elements or parts on a mini to define them from each other.


    Keep up the good work and don't hesitate to ask quesions from anyone around here. ::D:


    EDIT: I forgot to say that I really like that detective's tie.

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