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Captain jOE

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Posts posted by Captain jOE

  1. First off: great miniature! The teal armor is cool and the NMM is awesome!


    Because it's better than anything I've ever painted I don't feel as if I can really criticize. But, in my humble opinion, my only real issue with her is that the half cloak looks as if if "wants" to be black but has too much grey to actually register as such.

  2. I use Liquitex Slo-Dry retarder all the time but have not yet tried it with Reaper's flow improver. If all else fails, the Slo Dry works just fine when you use plain water to thin your paints.


    A couple of things to remember when wet-blending - don't use too much retarder. Thin your paint with water and then add retarder according to the instructions on the bottle. Too much not only takes forever to dry but it can weaken the paint, causing it to rub off easily. It's also a good idea to mix a base color, shadow and highlight all with retarder and have them ready to go as you paint so you can get good blends. Retarder extends drying time but not by a whole lot so don't think you have forever. :;):


    I mix my paints in the palettes with the little wells in them and keep toothpicks handy because the stuff can separate pretty quickly. I also have clean dry brushes on hand to act as mop brushes if I get too much paint on the miniature. A dry mop brush also helps with blends that decide to be stubborn. Usually darker paint is stronger than lighter stuff so you're going to want to blend your shades carefully, otherwise you'll overpower your base and highlight colors.


    Last but not least, it takes a little practice to get the hang of it but it's not overly difficult and you get some really cool effects. A good place to start is something like a cloak or robe which is relatively straight and has good folds to guide you with highlights and shadows.


    Well, that's all I can think of at the moment. Good luck with your project!





    That's very helpful advice, thanks a lot. :)

  3. As for Gunk mixing: it entirely depends on your flow improver. If your flow improver is Liquitex then what you actually have is something that conditions water. For myself I thin my drying retarder with half flow conditioned water. I've even done drying retarder with plain water.


    The blue on the loincloth can be achieved using the Ultramarine triad. As for the Flesh tones I would use Reaper's Tanned Skin Triad.


    Ok, thanks. I was probably going to grab reapers flow improver to use with liquitex slow dri (unless that's a big no no) simply because I'm going to be placing an order soonish.


    And those triads are pretty much just what I need. So thank you ::D: ! I had been poking around the paint section, but I wanted the opinion of someone who is a bit more familiar with the range before I bought anything.


    I wanted to use paints I have, but some of those flesh tones look too good to pass up. Oh well :down: looks like I'm spending more money than I want to once again.

  4. Ok, I am by no means an OSL master, but here is my 2 cents worth of advice.


    I think the first problem here is that the effect is not pulled off convincingly enough. What I mean by that is areas directly around the flame should be intensly lit. Like the cobblesontes right around the lower patch of fire. Also, the areas lit need to be more purely orange and yellow, they still look like there is too much blue showing around the flames as well as under the OSL you have done.


    As far as the yellow symbol is conerned. I'm a bit stumped. You could try outlining it with black, and then glazing orange as far as you want the glow of the fire to be. The reason you would outline with black, is to keep the distinct shape while still allowing you to make a more intense glow effect.


    I hope that made sense. Basically, make sure that all of the areas near to the flame, that it has "line of sight to" (pretty much the way you paint OSL) have a more pure and intense glow (but not more so than the flame). And you could try what I suggested with the emblem, but I have no idea what to do with it. So you might want to get more than just my opinion on that.


    Otherwise, fantastic work on the mini! I really like the symbols and the pearl colored armor.


    EDIT: also check this three part series out. Ron does an amazing job of explaining this topic. http://fromthewarp.b...-powerfist.html

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  5. Ok, wierd title but I didn't know what else to do ::P: .


    So I'm taking the next step with my painting and getting some flow aid and drying retarders for my painting. And I was wondering. What are some good painting "gunk" mix recipes that I can try to start with? I know it's kind of a, "whatever you like best" topic, but I'd like someplace to start. Also, any advice on what to do and NOT to do with this stuff would be appreciated.


    Also, I'm gonna paint this convverted Goldar the Barbarian. (WIP pic mind you, I still have to ad wraps around where the axe head meets the shaft)





    I'm basing him off of this character from Fire Emblem 7.




    I wanted to achieve similar skin tones, maybe whiter, but still maintaining the brown leathery look. I'm working with GW paints here, just for reference. Any advice or recipes?


    I was definitely thinking about using brown shadows over the red/pink that I normally do. I was thinking for very deep shadows are use GW scorched brown or GW dark flesh. Then I would work from GW bestial brown mixing through GW elf flesh with a final highlight using a little GW bleached bone mixed with GW elf flesh.


    Finally, I have like 0 blue paints since my room mate, Kuro Cleanbrush. moved out. So I need to by blue paints. With GW changing their paint line soon, I'm looking into buying some Reaper Master Series paints. So what blue triad would best achieve a rich, darker blue like on the Fire Emblem character above?


    Thanks in advance for any advice that you guys (and gals :poke: ) can offer.

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  6. Hey Captain! I'm glad you decided to put your stuff up on the forums! You already know that I think the models themselves are awesome! I would, however, recommend using the "incandecent" setting on the camera you used (since it's the same as mine) and using several of the regular light bulbs. Then, when you level adjust, the photos will be nice and bright and won't have that blue tint to them (which I found to be a result of using the "day-light" bulbs).


    Yeah, I did set the camera to incandecent, must still be the day light bulb. I also have the problem of having only one good lamp to use for this stuff now... I'll probably try taking another set of photos with a different light bulb and see how it turns out.



    Not a fan of Space Marines but that vet is awesome!


    Thank you very much for the compliment :D !

  7. Hi all! First post for me here. I was introduced to the forums by Kuro cleanbrush. Thought I'd post my latest works. Comments and critiques welcome :D !


    Note: these are my first models painting with zenithal highlighting, so these are kind of experimental for me. If any of you are GW fans or like 40K fluff, here's my DIY chapter's WIP thread that's got all of my lore in it. http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtopic=242031&st=0








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