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Bloodhowl

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About Bloodhowl

  • Rank
    Enlightened
  • Birthday 02/12/1971

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond, Texas
  • Interests
    SCUBA, Golf, Painting minis, Shooting guns

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  1. Bloodhowl

    Need newb advice

    To fix the broken claw, remove any of the remaining claw. Drill a hole with a pin vise and insert a small pin secured with super glue. Use greenstuff, (or favorite air dry sculpting medium) to sculpt new claw. Alternatively, you could also use some plastic rod or wood carved to shape.
  2. Bloodhowl

    Need newb advice

    Basing: Plastic to plastic: I use Testors Liquid Plastic Model Cement or superglue. Resin: Superglue Metal: Pin to base and glue with superglue.
  3. Bloodhowl

    That's a Mighty Fine Coat

    I don't think it's odd the hat band draws the eye to it. The black hat is getting lost in the background and the band and the face are the things that stand out the most to me. Using a lighter colored backdrop might help to make the rest of the model stand out more.
  4. Bloodhowl

    drill bits

    Do a search for: MICRO TWIST HSS DRILL BIT SET OF 10. The set includes the following sizes: 0.5mm 0.6mm 0.8mm 1.0mm 1.2mm 1.3mm 1.5mm 1.8mm 2.0mm 2.2mm Should cover most sizes you need for pinning.
  5. Bloodhowl

    Wood grain on flat surface

    Found this for wood crates and such on scale models: https://youtu.be/1IbGvKSwK4g
  6. Bloodhowl

    Resin... *shudder*

    I may have missed it earlier: 1. What resin did you use? 2. Was mix ratio per instructions? 3. Pouring surface was level? 4. Resin mixed thoroughly, scraped the sides of mix cup and the stir stick?
  7. Bloodhowl

    Resin... *shudder*

    Kneeling on one knee or both?
  8. Bloodhowl

    Masking tape on Reaper paint?

    A trick I learned in my scale model days was to put the masking tape on your forehead before applying it to the model. The oil from your head will reduce the adhesive enough to hold the tape in place, but not leave it so tacky that it will pull up the paint. As LittleBluberry said, make sure to let your paint cure before applying the tape.
  9. Bloodhowl

    Wizard Van?

    Find an image you like, reduce it to the correct size and trace it. Then transfer it to the model using homemade carbon paper (scribble pencil lead on the back of the paper, then go over the design on the front of the paper, transferring it to the model. has potential to smudge, YMMV). Or do like Corsair suggests!
  10. Bloodhowl

    Wizard Van?

    Think it of it like a comic book. Pencil it on, then outline with paint, then block in base colors and final details.
  11. Bloodhowl

    best way to do logo backpatch

    Post the image and the size you want them and I'll see if I can print some for you. ***To self: "Now, where did I put my decal paper?"
  12. Bloodhowl

    Bowstrings - what do you use?

    Found this tutorial years ago on making bowstrings and bookmarked it: https://youtu.be/IPhn1AeiMpo Also found this on making arrows: https://youtu.be/Pgbv9um5PNA Edit: Instead of thread, you might try EZ Line. I think I read somewhere it was originally designed to replicate power lines on model railroads, but aircraft modelers use it for the control lines and rigging on biplanes.
  13. Bloodhowl

    best way to do logo backpatch

    Sure do! Here you go: https://youtu.be/YPhWojOhhKQ https://youtu.be/xwwvY8E6wRY https://youtu.be/dBHIK8AYCAg
  14. Bloodhowl

    Plastic Model Kits

    After working in subsea oil and gas equipment manufacturing for several years, parts that move usually don't get painted because the paint will get rubbed off from the friction. We usually use a coating process (think similar to a non-stick coating on a frying pan) to protect the underlying metal and lubricate it so it moves smoothly against the other parts. Even then, it has a certain life expectancy depending on the coating type and manufacturer (around 3-5 years) where it would have to be re-applied during a scheduled maintenance cycle. Which is one reason the oil companies usually order two sets of everything. At the Gundam Reddit site: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/14eyho/paint_rubbing_and_moving_parts_on_painted_kits/ I found this answer (which seems to be the most common from the rest of the threads on the same topic): If it's in a place that will never see the light of day, it doesn't matter, in the other places a bit of sanding takes care of it, how much you need to sand depends on how thick and how many layers of paint you will use . There are of course some spots where this won't work and the only remedy there is to avoid handling the model. Also always allow the paint to cure completely. If the paint is dry but not cured it will be much weaker and more prone to getting damaged by handling. Other tips were to sand, prime, paint then gloss coat, then satin or matte coat, just like you would a table top miniature that gets handled a lot. ALL of them recommended minimal handling and moving of the parts after the model is complete to avoid the paint rubbing off.
  15. I would make a cylinder around the base (or a wooden dowel of the same diameter as your base) with your preferred material (thinking 1mm thick sheet styrene heated with a hair dryer/heat gun to bend it around the shape). Use hot glue to seal any gaps and attach the dam to the base. Mix and pour the resin to the depth you need. You can sand the resin with finer grits of sandpaper and then do a final polish (google how to remove headlight fogging if you need a visualization) to remove or clean up a line or scratch. Edit: A quick google search turned up several different release/non-stick options from things like commercial non-stick aerosols to everyday household items. This site had several options: http:// https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/what-you-can-do-if-you-dont-want-epoxy-to-stick/
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