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Everything posted by Bloodhowl

  1. you can also check out next level painting's you tube channel. He has some pretty good tutorials. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTfnfIY3Kyxcv8sWck4sxvQ
  2. I drop the pieces into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with Simple Green, then rinse, dunk in water with Dawn Ultra Power Plus, scrub with an old toothbrush and rinse again, then let air dry. Might be over kill, but I haven't had primer flake off since using this method.
  3. Using Goblin math, you will need 20 bottles. (Goblin mathematicians, please double check my calculations.) Using regular human math: 1 Gallon of interior latex house paint from Home Depot will cover 430 sq ft. (Not exact. I just looked at a few gallons at Home depot for a bathroom project I am going to do. Coverage varies by brand but the 3 I looked at were all close to 430 sq ft/gallon). Reaper paint is .5 oz. per bottle. So, 430 sqft/128oz = 3.36 sq ft/oz. 3.36 ft x .5 oz (alternatively, 3.36/2) ~ 1.68 sq ft/bottle of Reaper paint. Coverage will depend on how much you thin and the number of coats needed. If you measure Argent's surface area, that should give you a better idea of how many bottles you will need. Argent's dims will more than likely be in inches or mm, so convert appropriately. Reaper Bottle ~ 1.68 sq ft. 1.68 sq ft X 12 in = 20.16 sq in. *Disclaimer: It's early and I haven't had my coffee yet, so my numbers might be wrong. YMathMV.
  4. Order should go: grass, tufts, then flowers. The field system overview video from Woodland Scenics shows the general order. The video is mostly an add for their products, so I am not sure I can post the link here per the forum rules. But if you google woodland scenics, then click videos, then landscapes, you will find the field system overview video.
  5. To fix the broken claw, remove any of the remaining claw. Drill a hole with a pin vise and insert a small pin secured with super glue. Use greenstuff, (or favorite air dry sculpting medium) to sculpt new claw. Alternatively, you could also use some plastic rod or wood carved to shape.
  6. Basing: Plastic to plastic: I use Testors Liquid Plastic Model Cement or superglue. Resin: Superglue Metal: Pin to base and glue with superglue.
  7. I don't think it's odd the hat band draws the eye to it. The black hat is getting lost in the background and the band and the face are the things that stand out the most to me. Using a lighter colored backdrop might help to make the rest of the model stand out more.
  8. Do a search for: MICRO TWIST HSS DRILL BIT SET OF 10. The set includes the following sizes: 0.5mm 0.6mm 0.8mm 1.0mm 1.2mm 1.3mm 1.5mm 1.8mm 2.0mm 2.2mm Should cover most sizes you need for pinning.
  9. Found this for wood crates and such on scale models: https://youtu.be/1IbGvKSwK4g
  10. I may have missed it earlier: 1. What resin did you use? 2. Was mix ratio per instructions? 3. Pouring surface was level? 4. Resin mixed thoroughly, scraped the sides of mix cup and the stir stick?
  11. A trick I learned in my scale model days was to put the masking tape on your forehead before applying it to the model. The oil from your head will reduce the adhesive enough to hold the tape in place, but not leave it so tacky that it will pull up the paint. As LittleBluberry said, make sure to let your paint cure before applying the tape.
  12. Find an image you like, reduce it to the correct size and trace it. Then transfer it to the model using homemade carbon paper (scribble pencil lead on the back of the paper, then go over the design on the front of the paper, transferring it to the model. has potential to smudge, YMMV). Or do like Corsair suggests!
  13. Think it of it like a comic book. Pencil it on, then outline with paint, then block in base colors and final details.
  14. Post the image and the size you want them and I'll see if I can print some for you. ***To self: "Now, where did I put my decal paper?"
  15. Found this tutorial years ago on making bowstrings and bookmarked it: https://youtu.be/IPhn1AeiMpo Also found this on making arrows: https://youtu.be/Pgbv9um5PNA Edit: Instead of thread, you might try EZ Line. I think I read somewhere it was originally designed to replicate power lines on model railroads, but aircraft modelers use it for the control lines and rigging on biplanes.
  16. Sure do! Here you go: https://youtu.be/YPhWojOhhKQ https://youtu.be/xwwvY8E6wRY https://youtu.be/dBHIK8AYCAg
  17. After working in subsea oil and gas equipment manufacturing for several years, parts that move usually don't get painted because the paint will get rubbed off from the friction. We usually use a coating process (think similar to a non-stick coating on a frying pan) to protect the underlying metal and lubricate it so it moves smoothly against the other parts. Even then, it has a certain life expectancy depending on the coating type and manufacturer (around 3-5 years) where it would have to be re-applied during a scheduled maintenance cycle. Which is one reason the oil companies usually order two sets of everything. At the Gundam Reddit site: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/14eyho/paint_rubbing_and_moving_parts_on_painted_kits/ I found this answer (which seems to be the most common from the rest of the threads on the same topic): If it's in a place that will never see the light of day, it doesn't matter, in the other places a bit of sanding takes care of it, how much you need to sand depends on how thick and how many layers of paint you will use . There are of course some spots where this won't work and the only remedy there is to avoid handling the model. Also always allow the paint to cure completely. If the paint is dry but not cured it will be much weaker and more prone to getting damaged by handling. Other tips were to sand, prime, paint then gloss coat, then satin or matte coat, just like you would a table top miniature that gets handled a lot. ALL of them recommended minimal handling and moving of the parts after the model is complete to avoid the paint rubbing off.
  18. I would make a cylinder around the base (or a wooden dowel of the same diameter as your base) with your preferred material (thinking 1mm thick sheet styrene heated with a hair dryer/heat gun to bend it around the shape). Use hot glue to seal any gaps and attach the dam to the base. Mix and pour the resin to the depth you need. You can sand the resin with finer grits of sandpaper and then do a final polish (google how to remove headlight fogging if you need a visualization) to remove or clean up a line or scratch. Edit: A quick google search turned up several different release/non-stick options from things like commercial non-stick aerosols to everyday household items. This site had several options: http:// https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/what-you-can-do-if-you-dont-want-epoxy-to-stick/
  19. This one? I am not a fan of poster tack/putty for holding larger models.( Mine usually fall off at some point, damaging the paint, the mini, or both). I would try super- gluing a rare earth magnet (maybe 1/2" diameter?) to the holder, and the base/bottom of the miniature (for larger minis). The superglue should be strong enough to hold it while you paint, but brittle enough to remove the magnet after painting.
  20. From my TSR Games Monster Manual, 4th Edition, August, 1979: "The hairy hides of hobgoblins range from a dark reddish-brown to gray black. Their faces are bright red-orange to red. Large Males will have blue-red noses. Eyes are either yellowish or dark brown. Teeth are yellowed white to dirty yellow. Hobgoblins favor bright, bloody colors and black leather. they keep weapons well polished."
  21. Greenstuff to fill gaps, then I prime with Tamiya fine surface primer, or an automotive spray primer and that is all.
  22. Dragon's Don't Share Dragon is named Nathavarr. Dragon's Don't Share 2 Dragon is named Nathavarr.
  23. I use a spray booth from TCP Global. It's a decent size, but not sure it would work for something the size of Ma'al Drakar. Here's a shot of it open and folded up, as well as one on my worktable with the lights going.
  24. Using goblin math, wouldn't 20 coats be best?
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